
Book ' ^'^ ^ 



REPORT 



on the 



Dominion Government Expedition 



to 



THE NORTHERN WATERS AND 
ARCTIC ARCHIPELAGO 



of the 



D.G.S. ^^Arctic" in 1910. 






UNDER COMMAND OF J. E. BERNIER, 

Officer in Charge and Fishery Officer. 



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D. Of B*^ 









CONTENTS. 



Preliminary Part. 

Title Page. 

Report of Deputy Minister of Marine and Fisheries to Minister 

Instructions to Captain Bernier 

List of Ship's Company 

CONTENTS. 

Chapter I. Page. 

Former Expeditions of "Arctic" 5 

Departure from Quebec 6 

Inspection of Crew 7 

Landing Mail at Point Amour, Approaching Arctic Circle 8 

Passing Double Island, First Iceberg met, Disko and Hare Islands, Meeting "Grayling" . 9 

Coast of Greenland, Cape York and Cape George 10 

Bylot Island and Pond's Inlet 11 

Chapter II. 

Salmon River, Catching fish. Dropping anchor at Albert harbour and building station .... 13 
Ptrrchase of Eskimo dogs, Boarding "Diana", Sending Mail to Ottawa, Leaving Albert 

Harbour 15 

Possession Bay, Bylot Island, Cape Graham-Moore, Cape Walter-Bathurst, Dundas 

Harbour 16 

Erebus Bay, North Devon Island 17 

Shed built for stores, Erebus Bay, Finding Sir John Ross's records 21 

Wellington Channel, Cornwallis Island, Cape Hotham 22 

Resolute Bay, Cornwallis Island, McDougald Bay, Wellington Channel, Heavy ice, Bear 

shot_ _. 23 

Exploration Pioneer Bay, Cormvallis Island, Moore Island 24 

Bathurst and Byam-Martin Island, Natural Resources, Musk-oxen 25 

Landing at Dealy Island 26 

Cape Bounty, Winter Harbour, Melville Island 27 

Chapter III. 

Ice at Winter Harbour 28 

Hut built and provisions cached 29 

Report of Second Officer R. S. Janes on ice conditions from Cape Dundas (Melville Island) 

to Beechy Island, Hunting Musk-oxen on Melville Island, Return to Admiralty Inlet. 30 

Cape Oilman (on Byam-Martin Island), Mount Bullock. 30 

Admiralty Inlet, Yeamans Islands, Kikertoo, Sailing south in Admiralty Inlet 31 

Arctic Bay, Adams Sound 32 

Chapter IV. 

Preparing Vessel for Winter Quarters 33 

General Description of Admiralty Inlet 34 

Visit of Eskimos to Vessel, Thickness of Ice, Arctic Bay, 1910 35 

Explorations Arctic Bay 37 

Chapter V. 

Exploration Party sent to Prince Regent Inlet, Landing Supplies Arctic Bay 38 

Searching for Minerals Arctic Bay 39 

Igloo built and a deer sighted 40 

Prospectuig Victor Bay (Admiralty Inlet) 42 

Observations Eclipse of Moon 43 

Fire drill. Concert, etc., 44 

Vessel banked at Arctic Baj', Mild Weather 45 

Interviewing Natives re-passage Fury and Hecla Strait . 46 

Visit of Natives, Christmas Celebrations 48-49 



Chapter VI. 

Darkness during twenty-four hours, New Year's day observed 50 

Returning day-light, Ice cutting. Developing photographs 51 

Return of Eskimo sent to Ponds Inlet with mail, 52 

Igloo built for Dogs, Erection of Cross on East Point, in Arctic Bay 53 

Occupations of men 54 

Captain Bernier's and Dr. Bolduc's visit to Height of Land to observe the rising of Sun, 

31st of Jany, 1911 55 

Cairn built, Mineralized rock 56 

Party sent to Cape Crauford, and Fury and Hecla Strait 57, 58 

Natives arrive from Agoo, April 1st 59 

Survey of .Johnston Harbour (Arctic Bay) 60 

Return of Mr. Tremblay from Cape Crauford, 62 

Vessel overhauled, and Mathe's trip to Moffet Bay to secure specimens of mica 63 

Chapter VII. 

Lavoie's return from Fury and Hecla Strait, May 11th, Strathcona Sound Survey.. 64 

Celebration of Victoria Day, May 24th, 65 

Death and Burial of Eskimo 66 

June 14th, preparation to cut out Vessel 67 

Eskimos arrive with salmon 68 

prepare to leave Winter Quarters 70-72 

Vessel proceeds from Arctic Bay into Admiralty Inlet, Stopped by Ice 74 

Vessel proceeds to Cape Hay (Bylot Island), Icebergs aground, Adams Island 75 

Cape Graham-Moore (Ponds Inlet) 76 

Returning West, Navy Board Inlet to Part Bowen (Prince Regent Inlet) 77 

Attempt to enter Fury and Hecla Strait unsuccessful 78 

From Cape Hallowell (Prince Regent Inlet) to Cape Kater, (East Coast of Baffin Island,. 79 

Blacklead Island (Cumberland Gulf), Work of Rev. Dr. Peck 80 

Blacklead to Button Island 81 

General Remarks, Work of Messrs. Lavoie and Morin 82, 83 

Work of Captain Bernier, Meteorological Report 84 

Appendices to Captain Bernier's Report. 

Appendix No. 1. 

Summary of Report of Mr. I.avoie on his First Trip to Prince Regent Inlet 85 

Party leaves Oct. 8th, 1910, Shinik Island Reached 85 

Sapooting River Reached 86 

Eskimo Village, Ikaloo Paver 87 

Three Polar Bears killed 88 

Names of Members of Eskimo Family met on Trip 88, 89 

Appendix No. 2. 

Report of Explorations through Brodeur Peninsula, Surveys of Prince Regent Inlet and 

South End of Admiralty Inlet, Baffin Island, by J. T. E. Lavoie, C. E^ (abridged) 89 

Preparations for Trip, Guide, Clothing, Dogs, etc 90 

Fine Display of Perihelion Observed 91 

Fire in Snow Hut 93 

Reached Port Bowen 94 

McBean Bay, Bear killed 95 

Cape Kater 96 

High Capes Named, Cairn built. Arrival at Bernier Bay 97 

Storm bound. Bear and cubs killed 98 

Observations at Bernier Bay, Opening of Strait and Narrow Escape 99, 100 

Rough Travelling, Cape Hallowell Survey ,^ 101 

Observations at Cape Hallowell 102 

Reindeer killed, Triangulation of Whyte Inlet 103 

Seal Hunting 104 

Crown Cape, Moffet Bay 105 

Return to "Arctic" at Arctic Bay (Admiralty Inlet) 106 

Appendix No. 3. 

Report of J. T. E. Lavoie on the surveys on the Northern coast of Baffin Island, in August, 

1911 106 

Leave Albert Harbour ( Ponds Inlet), Arctic Flowers 107 

Arctic Sound reached 108 

Explorations and Observations, Arctic Sound 108, 109, 111 

Milne Inlet 112 



Appendix No. 4. 

Meteorological Report of J. T. E. Lavoie, C. E., from Observations and Records during 

Cruise of "Arctic", 1910-11 113, 116 

Meteorological Tables 117 to 131 

Appendix No. 5. 
(Translated from the French.) 

Report of O. J. Morin, First Officer of the "Arctic," on a trip from the Ship in Arctic Bay 

to the southern end of Admiralty Inlet, in October, 1910 132 

Cape Cunningham 133 

Dominical Island 134 

Shinik Island, Salmon Plentiful 135 

Moffett Inlet, cache left : .... 136 

Return to Ship at Arctic Bay 137 

Appendix No. 6. 

Summary of Report of Mr. Robert Janes, Second Officer of G. S. " Arctic," Description 

of Adams Inlet 138 

Navy Board Inlet and Eclipse Sound, i^rrival at Ponds Inlet 140 

Expedition to Cape Weld, Search for Halibut 141 

Trip to Salmon River, Coal found 142 

Discovery of Coal, Canada Point 143 

Whalers interviewed 144 

Appendix No. 7. 

Official Report of Department of Mines on Analyses and Tests of Rock, Coal, Shale and 
Mineral Specimens secured during the Cruise of the "Arctic" in Northern Regions, 
1910-11 144 to 147 

Report by A. Johnston, on Prehnite from Adams Sound (Admiralty Inlet) 147 to 149 

Appendix No. 8. 

Report of Mr. English, Mineral Prospector (abridged) 150 

Ponds Inlet and Vicinity 150 

Erebus Bay (North Devon Island), Fossils found 151 

Prospecting Adams Sound (Admiralty Inlet) 152, 153 

Report on old mica prospect, Blacklead (Cumberland Gulf) 154 

Appendix No. 9. 
Report of J. E. Mathe on Formations in Vicinity of Autridge Bay (Baffin Island). . . 154, 155 

Appendix No. 10. 
Report on Cairn built at Cape Crauf ord ( West Point Admiral t.y Inlet) 156 

Appendix No. 11. 

Memo, of distances travelled by parties from Arctic Bay on foot and with sledges, Captain 
Bernier's Expeditions, 1910-11 156-157 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

Group of Officers and Men on "Arctic", July 10th, 1910 1 

The "Grayling" looking for two of her men lost in the fog, Labrador Coast, July 15th, 1910 7 

"Arctic" stopped by Ice opposite Uppernaik, July, 1910 8 

Ice floe Baffin Bay, Julv 23rd, 1910 10 

"Arctic" in Ice, Smith Sound, July 24th, 1910 11 

Ponds Inlet, "Arctic" moored to Ice floe, July 21st, 1910 12 

Peak, George V Mountain, Ponds Inlet, August 1st, 1910 12 

Northern Flowers, Ponds Inlet, July 31st, 1910 13 

"Arctic" Sailors, July 10th, 1910. _. 14 

On Top of King George V Mountain, 1800 feet in height. Ship in Bay 14 

Beloeil Island bearing west, August 1st, 1910 15 

Bylot Island, August 1st, 1910 16 

Training a Lost Dog, Ponds Inlet, August 1st, 1910 17 

Albert Harbour, Cache No. 1, August 11th, 1910 18 

Albert Harbour, Carpenter P. Norman, August, 1910 19 

First Polar Bear Captured, North Devon, August 17th, 1910 20 

Cape Riley, North Devon, August ISth, 1910 21 

Sir John Ross Cairn Found on Cape Spencer, August 19th, 1910 22 

Finding Sir. John Ross's Record, Cape Spencer, August 19th, 1910 23 

Sailors Home Built by Capt. Kellett, 1S53, August 30th. 1910 25 

Ravine in Melville Island, Sept. 2nd, 1910 26 

Cache No. 3 completed. Winter Harbour, September 2nd, 1910 28 

Melville Island, Bed of River, September 2nd, 1910 29 

The Eskimos of Arctic Bay, September 13th, 1910 31 

Entrance of Adams Sound 32 

Entrance to Johnston Harbour, Adams Sound, September, 1910 33 

Victor Bay looking North, September, 1910 34 

Stepping on Board, September, 1910 36 

Arctic Bay, Eskimo Dogs, 1910-11 37 

Leaving Camp, October 13th, 1910, Admiralty Inlet, 8 miles south of Cape Cunningham. . 38 

Taking in Ballast, Arctic Bay, Fall of 1910 39 

A. English and Party 40 

Moffett Bay, large Iceberg at Entrance, October 15th, 1910 41 

Lavoie-Morin Party camping two miles south of Moffet Bay, southern point of Admiralty 

Inlet, October, 1910 41 

Lavoie-Morin Partv on Admiraltv Inlet, October, 1910 42 

Most Easterly of Richards Islands, October, 1910 43 

Sawing Ice, Lake Caron, November, 1910 44 

Inside Massan's Igloo, November, 1910 45 

"Arctic" by Moonlight, Januar3% 1911 46 

Old Eskimo Village 47 

Inside of Tom's Igloo, November, 1910 49 

On a Fine Sunday, March, 1911 50 

The Blacksmith Shop, March, 1911 52 

Cross Erected by the Crew of the "Arctic", April. 1911 . 53 

Lake Caron where Ice was taken . 54 

St. George Society's Cairn ' 55 

"Arctic" Pastime, playing Baseball at 20 below zero, March, 1911. . 56 

Chasm in St. George Society's Cliff, 1910-11 57 

Adjusting Sextants preparatory to Expeditions, March 14th, 1911 58 

Leaving for Cape Crauford, March, 1911 59 

Eskimos leaving for their Spring Hunting, March, 1911 60 

Johnston Harbour looking!)!. E \ 61' 

Dr. Bolduc visiting Sick Eskimos, April 18th, 1911 61 

Eskimos and Members of the Crew ; 62 

Drying Seal Skins, May, 1911 -. . 63 

Reception Day for the Eskimos, May, 1911 64 

Eskimos working around Ship, May, 1911 65 

On the mountains — Strathcona Sound, May, 1911 65 

Strathcona Sound 66 

Iron Deposit, N. E. of Strathcona Sound 67 

Head of Strathcona Sound 68 

Grave of Taveng Macket-a-we, Arctic Bay 68 

Observatory Tent, June 14th, 1911 69 

Arctic Bay from Observatory, June, 1911 69 



Dried Water Fall, June, 1911 70 

Tom the Interpreter 71 

Arctic Bay, Massan and Near Relatives, June 23rd, 1911 71 

Where Mineral Specimens were found, June, 1911 72 

The Bow of the "Arctic", June, 1911 73 

Cape Rotunda, Adams Sound, 1910-11 73 

Adams Sound 74 

Adams Sound, 1910-11 75 

Adams Soimd, May, 1911 76 

Iceberg, Navy Board Inlet, August, 1911 79 

Rev. Mr. Greenshield, Missionary, Blacklead Island, August, 1911 80 

A Group of Natives, Arctic Bay, 1910-11 87 

J. T. E. Lavoie leaving for Prince Regent Inlet Coast Survey, March 15th, 1911 89 

Eskimo Stone and Snow House, Arctic Bay, 1910-11 90 

Seal Himting Apparatus 95 

Looking for Seals, 1910-11 104 

Stern of the "Arctic" with the Natives who worked at the Canal, June, 1911 116 

Mr. Chasse's Himting Expedition, Spring, 1911 132 

About 67 miles from Cape Cunnigham, Admiralty Inlet, October, 1910 133 

Eskimo Caravan 141 

"Arctic" Caleche, June 23rd, 1911 144 

Entrance Erebus Bay, Beechey Island, Cape Spencer 150 

Cache No. 2, Remains of Northumberland House, Erebus Bay, August 19th, 1911 151 



LIST OF SKETCHES AND MAPS INCLUDED IN 
THIS REPORT. 



Page. 

Sketch of Shinik Islands, Admiralty Inlet 86 

Sketch of Aurora Borealis observed in Arctic Bay on March 4th, 1911, by J. T. E. Lavoie, 

C. E 114 

Sketch of route of Mr. Robt. Janes, 2nd Officer of "Arctic" from Arctic Bay (Adams Sound) 

to Ponds Inlet, Dec, 1910. 140 

Surveys and Discoveries in Arctic Regions with additions and changes to 1911, on coast of 

Baffin Island, by J. T. E. Lavoie, C. E 

Plan of Arctic Bay, Baffin Island, by J. T. E. Lavoie, C. E 

Plan showing the route followed by Mr. Lavoie and Party 

Prince Regent Inlet Coast Survey, January, 1911 




Group of officers and men on "Arctic," July 10th, 1910. 



To The Hon. John Douglas Hazen, 

Minister of Marine and Fisheries 
Ottawa. 



Sir — 



I have the honour to submit the report of the Expedition of the Dominion 
Government steamer '' Arctic," in 1910-11, under command of Captain J. E. 
Bernier, to the Northern waters and Arctic Archipelago, for the intended purpose 
of making the Northwest passage and for patrolling waters where whaling is 
prosecuted. 

This report is supplementary to the report of the Expedition made by the 
same steamer under the same Commander in 1908-9, as the voyage made was 
practically in the same waters. 

The report has been compiled by Mr. W. W. Stumbles and staff of this 
department from extracts of the log of the " Arctic," and reports of officers 
of the ship, submitted by Captain Bernier. 

I have the honour to be, sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

ALEXANDER JOHNSTON, 

Deputy Minister of Marine and Fisheries. 



Department of Marine and Fisheries, 
Ottawa. 



Ottawa, 5th July, 1910. 
INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN J. E. BERNIER. 



Sir,— 

Your instructions for the cruise of the S.S. " Arctic " in the northern waters 
of Canada, which you are about to make, are as follows: — 

(1) As soon as practicable after receiving these instructions you will leave 
Quebec for the waters which you are to patrol, calling at Chateau bay for final 
orders, if any, from the Department. On reaching Chateau bay you will com- 
municate with the Department. 

(2) It will be your duty to patrol Davis strait, Baffin bay, Lancaster sound, 
Barrow strait, Melville sound, McClure strait, and Beaufort sea to Herschel 
island, thence through Behring strait to Vancouver or Victoria, B.C. The 
advisability of attempting to make the northwest passage is, however, left to your 
joidgment after ascertaining the ice conditions on the spot. If you are satisfied 
that the passage cannot be attempted without imminent danger to the ship and 
her officers and crew you will return to Quebec at the conclusion of your work in 
the other waters above referred to. It is not desirable that the present expedition 
should extend over two years from this July. 

(3) You will acquaint any persons whom you may find engaged in the whale 
fishery in these northern waters that you are patrolling these waters as the duly 
accredited officer of the Canadian Government, and you will, where necessary, 
demand payment of license fees for such fishing. If payment be refused you will 
make a request that such refusal be put in writing. It is not desirable that you 
should take any action in this regard which would be likely to embarrass the 
Government. 

(4) The instructions you have received on former cruises in these northern 
waters as to the reports and advices to be sent to the Department, both before 
sailing from Quebec and afterwards, are to be considered as applicable to this 
expedition. 

(5) Before leaving Quebec you will send a complete list of everybody on 
board the " Arctic " who is to accompany you. 

On behalf of the Minister and the Department I wish you all a prosperous 
voyage and a safe return. 

(Sgd.) A. JOHNSTON, 
Deputy Minister of Marine and Fisheries. 



Captain J. E. Bernier, 

S.S. " Arctic," 
Quebec. 



SHIP'S COMPANY. 



OFFICERS. 



Captain J. E. Bernier 

0. J. MORIN 

Robert S. Janes 
Edward Macdonald 
John V. Koenig 
Emile Bolduc 
Joseph Thibauld 



Commander 
First Officer 
Second Officer 
Third Officer 
Chief Engineer 
Second Engineer 
Purser and Steward 



Scientific Staff. 



Joseph Etienne Bolduc 
Fabien Vanasse 
J. T. E. Lavoie 
Arthur English 



Medical Officer 
Historiographer 
Meteorologist and Geologist 
Prospector and Taxidermist 



Crew. 



Joseph Lessard 
Alphe Bouchard 
William Labelle 
Joseph Eugene Mathe 
Phillip C. F. Reynolds 
Louis Beaulieu 
Paul Mercier 

AURELIEN LeGENDRE 

Albert Nolet . 

AUGUSTE VeZINA 

Napoleon Normand 
Napoleon Chasse . 
Benoid Chartrand 
Paul Tremblay 
George Gosselin 
Thomas Holden 
Wilfred C. Caron 
Louis Bernier 
Eugene Montfort 
William Morin 
William Doyle 
Auguste Michel 
Alfred Tremblay 
James Brace 
Napoleon Garant 



Quarter Master 



Ass't Steward 
Cook 

Second Cook 
Oiler 



Carpenter 

Boatsman 

Waiter and Portager 

Waiter 

Laundry man 

Boatswain 

Able B.S. 



Fireman 



THE CRUISE OF THE "ARCTIC" TO 
NORTHERN WATERS, 1910-1911. 



>■ 



NDER, authority of a Royal Commission, issued July 23rd, 1906, 
Captain Joseph Elzear Bernier was appointed to take charge of the 
Canadian Government steamer " Arctic," in an exploring expedition 
to Hudson Bay and Northern Waters, belonging to Canada and to 
patrol these waters as a Fishery officer. The "Arctic" was fitted 
out andv sailing instructions given by direction of the Hon. L. P. Brodeur, 
Minister of Marine and Fisheries. The "Arctic " returned the same year. Another 
expedition by the same steamer, under command of the same officer and under 
the same authority, was fitted out in 1908 with instructions to explore the Arctic 
Archipelago and waters to the extreme far north and west as far as Melville island. 
The voyage was completed in October, 1909, by a return to Quebec, and a full report 
was made by Captain Bernier to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries and pub- 
lished in the early part of 1910. 

In 1910 the " Arctic " was again fitted out and instructions given under the 
direction of the same Minister of Marine and Fisheries by the Deputy Minister, 
published in this report. The instructions, as it will be seen by reference to them, 
included directions to make the North West passage, if possible, by McClure 
strait and Beaufort sea and to patrol the Canadian waters of the Arctic ocean in 
the fishery interest and to continue the voyage through Behring sea and strait to 
Victoria, British Columbia. 

The " Arctic " was unable to proceed in 1910 farther than the west coast of 
Melville island owing to the extremely heavy bodies of ice which filled the western 
entrance of McClure strait. The vessel returned eastward and entered Admiralty 
inlet, sailed southward as far as possible and afterwards made her winter quarters 
in Arctic bay on the east side of Admiralty inlet. Explorations were made along 
the shores of the inlet by several officers and parties sent from the ship during the 
winter, and an extended trip overland was undertaken to Fury and Hecla strait, 
south of Cockburn land and to the shores of the eastern part of the Gulf of Boothia 
by a survey party, in December 1910. 

In the journey dogs were used and Eskimo guides employed. The officer 
in charge of the survey was accompanied by an officer instructed to observe the 
geological formation of the country traversed, to collect mineral specimens if dis- 
covered and note carefully the localities. Instruments were employed to determine 
the latitude, longitude and temperature of different places, and thickness of ice 
along the shores of the waters visited. Another survey party under the same officer 
was sent from the ship, in March, 1911, with instructions from Captain Bernier to 
cross Admiralty inlet to the west side and overland to Prince Regent inlet, west of 
Admiralty inlet, and to survey the east side of Prince Regent inlet southward to 
cape Kater, proceeding still further south and eastward to cape Hallowell in the 



6 

strait of Fury and Hecla. Eskimo guides and dogs were also used in this trip; 
necessary instruments were employed for triangulation on the coast of Prince 
Regent strait. An island was mapped, situated in the Gulf of Boothia. Geological, 
mineralogical, meteorological and other observations were made. 

Observing parties for different purposes, mainly mineral observations, were 
sent out during the spring months, and on the return voyage from Arctic bay in 
August, 1911, surveys were made in Milne inlet. Eclipse sound. Ponds inlet and the 
northern part of Baffin land. 

Reports of the officers engaged in the work mentioned were handed in to the 
Department, and they are published in an abridged form as appendices to the main 
report. 

The report has been carefully compiled from notes selected by Captain Bernier 
from his log book. These notes, with a large number of photographs, some maps, 
and a meteorological report made by Mr. Lavoie, the officer in charge of the surveys, 
and all the reports were duly submitted, accompanied by letter to the Deputy 
Minister as the report upon the expedition. 

The mineral specimens, rock and coal collected, during the voyage, were 
delivered to the Mines Department in Ottawa and a report upon the result of the 
analysis is herewith published as an appendix. 

The geological observations are brief but the report of Prof. A. P. Low, former 
Director of the Geological Surveys of the Dominion, to the Minister of Marine 
and Fisheries, made in 1903-1904, of the " Cruise of the Neptune," in which he was 
the geologist and officer in command, in a voyage to Hudson bay and Arctic islands, 
contains more definite and scientific information. The report of J. G. McMillan, 
geologist in the expedition of the " Arctic " in 1908-1909 to the Arctic Archipelago, 
is also very full, including Baffin land. 

The observations made in May had in view the possible return of the " Arctic " 
by Fox channel, Hudson bay and strait to Quebec, but the ice during the winter of 
1910-11 had formed in such masses in the gulf of Boothia, Fury and Hecla strait 
and Fox channel, that no prospect of getting through safely could be seen. 

This report is supplementary to the report of the voyage of 1908-1909. Al- 
though the intention was to make the " North-west Passage," the waters patrolled 
and the service performed, were practically the same as in the former voyage. New 
conditions with regard to ice formation and blocking of channels comparatively 
free in 1908-1909, presented difficulties in navigation in 1910 that were not experi- 
enced in other voyages, but, on the other hand, the winter quarters in Arctic bay were 
more satisfactory, being far less exposed to high winds, and the weather as a general 
thing more moderate. During the long period of daylight more extensive excursions 
overland were possible than in the former voyage. Dogs were available, obtained 
from the Eskimos in the vicinity of Arctic bay, and some of the natives acted as guides 
to distant points. No Eskimo tribes inhabit Melville island where the vessel 
wintered in 1908-1909, therefore, explorations were not made inland to any con- 
siderable distance or remote parts of the island. The longest journies were under- 
taken to Banks island and Victoria island across McClure strait by officers of the 
ship who travelled on foot and drew their supplies and outfit on sleds. The last 
expedition of the " Arctic " differed in this respect from the former, and a more 
thorough search was rnSde for minerals, to occupy the time of the officers and crew. 

The '' Arctic " was fitted out and provisioned for a voyage of two years, at 
Quebec. Some incidents in connection with the departure of the vessel are here 
related as matters of interest attached to an expedition setting out upon a long 
voyage to the distant northern waters. The Minister of Marine and Fisheries, 
the Hon. L. P. Brodeur, who intended to see the vessel off, was unable to go to 
Quebec, owing to other official duties. The Hon. Joseph E. Caron, Minister of 
Agriculture of the province of Quebec, on behalf of the Minister of Marine and 
Fisheries, wished the Commander and crew a successful voyage and safe return. 
Flags from vessels in the harbour were hoisted in honour of the event and steam 



whistles saluted the " Arctic " as she started from the wharf and sailed along the 
harbour. These salutes were returned by the outgoing ship, which had her principal 
flags flying. The " Arctic " was deeply laden with provisions and coal, had on 
board, including the Commander and Officers, a crew of 36 all told. Accompany- 
ing the ship for a short distance the Dominion Government steamer carried a number 
of officials from the Marine and Fisheries agency and other Government officials, 
both Federal and Provincial. The " Arctic " was piloted by Arthur Koenig, the 
date of leaving the 7th of July, 1910, with favourable weather. A west wind enabled 
the vessel to hoist her square sails and with auxiliary steam power, she passed down 
the St. Lawrence river. 

Between Quebec and Father point an inspection was made of the crew by 
Dr. Bolduc, the ship's doctor, and at 5 p.m., the second day out, the vessel arrived 
at Father point for final orders from Ottawa, and took on board some stores which 
had not been shipped at Quebec. From Father point, the '' Arctic " proceeded, on 
the 8th of July, towards point des Mont; she arrived off the point on the 9th. Sun- 
day, the 10th, was fine ; new suits of blue cloth were issued to the men and a 
religious service was held on deck. The weather continued fine after the gulf of 
St, Lawrence had been entered, but heavy flashes of lightning on Sunday night, 
indicated some atmospheric disturbance at no great distance. No change of 
moment occurred in the course along Anticosti island, from which place the course 
was shaped to point Rich. Observations could not be taken on the 11th, at mid- 
day, as the sun could not be seen. The vessel, although deeply laden, had acted 
well and made good progress. Before passing through the strait of Belle isle 
the crew was set at the work of lashing the deck load, in readiness for sea. 




The " Grayling" looking for two of her men lost in the fog, Labrador Coast, July 15th, 1910. 




" Arctic " stopped by the Ice, opposite Uppernavik, July, 1910. 



Tuesday, the 12th, being clear, the coast of Newfoundland was sighted, and 
the vessel, making good headway, reached the coast. Point Rich was passed and 
a landing made at point Amour, where the mail from the ship was left to be for- 
warded to Ottawa and other points. This place was left at 1.30 a.m. on the 13th 
of July, the vessel proceeding through the strait of Belle isle under sail and 
steam. Quite a large number of schooners were met on their way eastward. So 



9 

far no important change in the wind or weather had occurred, but so far nothing 
eventful had transpired nor of a nature deserving special mention excepting, the 
fact that a large number of fishing schooners were seen in the strait, differing very 
little from one another in appearance, the men engaged in their occupation or the 
vessels underway passing westward. 

The crew of the '' Arctic " had in the passage to the strait been assigned 
their various duties in managing the ship, and each officer on active duty, took his 
regular watch. Most of the men were on a voyage of this kind for the first time 
and consequently, needed orders of instruction from the experienced officers who 
had been previously to sea in the " Arctic," until they had become accustomed to 
the ship, while the discipline peculiar to Government ships on Arctic expeditions, 
was being enforced upon all on board. 

In navigating the ship the usual landmarks and aids to navigation were 
clearly observed, but after passing Double island on the 13th, the wind changed from 
N.E. to S.E. and caused a heavy easterly swell, accompanied by thick fog. The 
position of the ship, by account, was in latitude 53 03 N. and longitude 55 18 W. 
The fore and aft sails were set and coal was taken from the forehold to keep the 
vessel in proper trim. The wind changed to the N.E. and became very fresh, 
causing the '' Arctic " to roll considerably. At daylight on Friday, the 15th July, 
the first iceberg was sighted ; the wind hauled to the N.N.W. and the sails were 
again set. Coming towards us a fishing schooner, named the " Grayling," re- 
ported that she had lost two men in a dory. One of the crew of the " Arctic " was 
sent aloft to the crow's nest to look for any sign of the men, and this search was 
continued for a few hours, without success, until fog set in and the lookout was 
prevented from seeing any distance, making it useless to keep up the search. On 
the 16th the weather was fine, and the wind changing from the W.N.W. to E.S.E 
then E. all sails were set to advantage, but a heavy roll continued. As the sun did 
not appear, no observations were possible. By account the vessel was in latitude 
56 48 N. and longitude 54 01 W. Head winds set in at this time and made it 
necessary to clew up the sails and the vessel proceeded under steam at a rather 
slow rate. On the 17th, observations were taken at noon, and the clocks were 
adjusted. The latitude by observation was 58 17 N., longitude W. 54 00. The 
weather was heavy at times and some small icebergs were passed. 

The vessel was now approaching the Arctic circle; the lights were put out at 
2 a.m. on the 18th of July. In the early part of the forenoon, a two-masted steamer, 
believed to be Danish, was passed. At noon of the 19th the latitude, by observa- 
tion, was 62 22 N., longitude 53 46 W.;the high peaks of Greenland came in view 
and the " Arctic " had entered the region of perpetual daylight during the 24 hours.. 
Not much ice was seen on the 20th; the coast of Greenland was still in view, the 
clear weather enabling the crew to see well around the horizon; about 30 whales 
sporting in the waters were observed at a distance of five miles or so away. At 
about 25 miles from Greenland, in latitude 66 44 N. longitude 54 30 W., a fine view 
of the land was obtained, but on the 21st fog set in ; all square sails were set and 
shortly after, the fog clearing, the entrance of Holsteinborg was in view. The 
summits of the hills were covered with snow and presented a fine panorama, photo- 
graphs of which were taken. At this time favourable winds and weather enabled 
the vessel to make fair progress ; but the coal in the bunkers was getting low and the 
men were set at work to refill the bunkers from the main hold. At noon of the 22nd, 
in latitude 69 10 N., longitude 54 45 W., Disko island was seen; a strong wind from 
the N.W. by W. soon made it necessary to clew up the sails. At 10 p.m. light fog 
set in but it was clear enough to notice a few icebergs here and there. The wind 
changed on the following day, the 23rd, to the S.W. when all sail was set, causing 
the ship to make good way to clear a large iceberg. Having made some progress, 
Hare island north of Disko island, hove in view, the latitude being 70 11 N., longi- 
tude 50 40 W. As fog and rain had set in and icebergs were numerous, the course 
was shaped more to the west to clear the bergs. Great care was necessary, and 



10 

constant watchfulness compelled the captain and sailors to be on the alert to pre- 
vent disaster. Fine weather and but few icebergs on Sunday, the 24th, brought rest 
and it was made a veritable day of rest. 




Icefloe, Baffin Bay, July 23rd, 1910. 



Monday, however, changed the scene and with it came vast fields of ice that 
surrounded the vessel leaving no leads, and this condition of the ice was some- 
what aggravated by the danger from large icebergs moving south. Several large 
icebergs surrounded by field ice were passing along the coast of Greenland, increasing 
the difficulties of navigation, but leads were found through which the vessel worked 
her way slowly until Devils tongue, Greenland, was sighted; latitude of the vessel 
at the time, 70 01 N. longitude 59 41 W. Five bears were seen at this time and an 
exceptionally large iceberg. For several days the vessel had been beset by ice, but 
more favourable conditions now enabled progress to be made by the parting of the 
fields in several directions. The course taken was to the northeastward and at 
midnight the land, bearing S.E., was observed, about 45 miles distant. On the 27th 
fog and rain set in. The vessel had been running at full speed all night, the captain 
remaining on deck to direct the course through the leads that had opened in the 
direction which the vessel was sailing. No icebergs \^(ere in sight at the time and 
the ice was becoming very much decayed and looser. 

At 9 p.m. on the 27th cape George was sighted N. by W. true, about 40 miles 
off, but at midnight the vessel had to stop way owing to the fog. It did not con- 
tinue for any length of time and the vessel was started ahead on the morning of the 
28th at 4. At noon the sun shone out, the position of the ship by observation was 
in latitude 75 03 N. longitude 69 58 W.; the course steered varied from W. N. W. to 
N., the weather was fine and clear with no wind, permitting the ship to make good 
headway. Opposite cape York were seen vast numbers of the little Auk. Prepara- 
tions were, at this time, being made to land stores; the weather, however, changed 
and became foggy. No ice interfered with the vessel's progress and all sails were 



11 

set in a favourable wind, to save coal. The wind died away and the engines were 
started; at 10 p.m. Button point, Bylot island, was passed, the vessel was steered 
towards Ponds bay and at 2 a.m. on the 30th July she arrived at a point named 
George V. Mountain. The ice at this point was still unbroken but covered with 
water. At noon of the same day, the first officer and three men with a sleigh and 
boat were sent to Albert harbour. 

Owing to the ice which blocked the way, very little progress was made and the 
vessel was made fast to the ice as no water was to be seen to the westward. 




"Arctic" in ice, Smith Sound, July 24th, 1910. 



12 




Ponds Inlet, " Arctic " moored to Icefloe, July 31st, 1910. 




Peak King George V, Ponds Inlet, August 1st, 1910. 



13 




Northern Flowers, Ponds Inlet, July 31st, 1910. 



CHAPTER II. 



The chief officer returned to the vessel bringing with him 5 Eskimos from the 
whaling stations. These men reported that the captain of the whaler " Morning " 
had arrived at the station, and had left. It was learned also that captain Milne, of 
the " Diana," had landed on the outer pack and had departed, intending to return. 
On Monday, the first of August, the ''Arctic " got underway, making only one mile. 
From this point the second officer, two men and three Eskimos were sent to Salmon 
river to catch fish, for use on board. The ice began to show signs of moving on the 
2nd of August, and as a precautionary step a dock was cut in the ice to prevent the 
moving ice from squeezing the ship. On the 3rd the lines were cast off and the ves- 
sel proceeded towards the harbour, which had been cleared by strong winds from 
the south. The harbour was entered but great exertions had been necessary to 
make this haven. The anchor was dropped in 20 fathoms, on the 4th of August; 
the men were immediately set at work to land lumber for building a small house to 
store three months' provisions, on the west side of the northern entrance of the 
harbour. 

The work of building was completed in three days, provisions were stored in 
view of any accident to the "Arctic " that might make it necessary to return to this 
point. Sailing in these northern waters is uncertain and experience has taught 
those in command of northern expeditions that it is wise to provide against possible 
loss of a ship with a number of souls on board, particularly men who are not accus- 
tomed to securing food in the precarious way of the native or experienced explorers 
in those regions. An iceboat was also left as another precautionary measure. 



14 




" Arctic " Sailors, July 10th, 1910. 

Observations of the sun were made, to ascertain the magnetic variation from the 
true north. The magnetic pole being south and west of Albert harbour this step 
was necessary for compass steering. Unfortunately the harbour was again filled 
by the ice which moved backwards and forwards with the tide and changing winds. 
Usually the heavy field ice clears from the vicinity of Albert harbour and Ponds' 
inlet at an earlier period. The late season caused disappointment and did not augur 




On top of King Genrgo V. Mountain, 1800 feet in height. Ship in the Eay. 



15 

well for easy advance through Lancaster sound. In the meantime, the launch was 
got ready on the 6th of August and sent to Salmon river to bring the men who had 
been sent there to the ship. They were successful in securing salmon and brought 
490 that were immediately salted for future use on board. 




Beloeil Island, bearing west, August 1st, 1910. 



On Sunday the 7th the men were all allowed to go on shore as the harbour 
remained full of ice. The next day an attempt was made by the first officer to 
go to Salmon river for more fish, but this effort was unsuccessful owing to strong 
winds and large fields of ice which blocked the way. During the stay at Albert 
harbour a census of the natives was taken by Mr. Vanasse the historiographer, and 
Mr. Lavoie, who was acting as Customs Officer, went on board the "Diana" of 
Newfoundland to ascertain if dutiable goods were brought to the whaling station. 
Fresh water was put in the tank and on the 10th the second officer and some men 
were sent to a small river about 4 miles from the cache to fish, returning at night 
with about 2,000 pounds of fine salmon trout, which were cleaned and in due 
course dried. 

Purchase was made of 38 Eskimo dogs at the village of Albert and they were 
taken on board; on the 12th, two Eskimos were hired, one named Macatowee, 
the other Macashaw. The vessel was moved towards the river where the salmon 
trout had been taken and on the way a boat approached which proved to be from 
the "Diana"; the "Arctic" returned to Albert harbour and Captain Bernier 
went on board the " Diana " to collect the fishery license fee from Captain Milne. 
Mr. Lavoie, acting Customs Officer, went on board the "Diana" to ascertain if 
there were dutiable goods on board, but as the vessel had nothing but her own 
stores returned to the " Arctic." Letters were delivered to Captain Milne on 
the 13th to be forwarded to Ottawa. 

Having attended to all matters that required attention at Albert harbour 
and the ice conditions becoming more favourable the harbour was left on the 



16 




Bylot Island, August 1st, 1910. 



13th and the vessel proceeded to pass around the eastern side of Bylot island for 
the purpose of entering Lancaster sound. The wind was S.W. ; fog interfered 
to some extent with making headway; it was possible, however, to steer close to 
land. Guys bight was passed and on the 14th, Button point and cape Graham 
Moore. Some surveys were made along the coast and bays entered. Bathurst 
bay north of cape Walter-Bathurst is a fine bay affording shelter in a northerly 
wind and another bay to the north of this can be used to advantage in a southerly 
wind. Outside cape Byam-Martin is a rock about a third of a mile off shore and 
awash at half tide; this rock is dangerous when keeping along the land. The 
" Arctic " sailed along shore until Possession bay was reached where the Captain 
landed, taking with him several men in order to deposit records and search for 
records left by Sir John Ross. The papers from the " Arctic " were deposited 
on the highest peak of the hills surrounding the bay, the peak is about 900 feet 
above sea level. 

Returning from this cache, Captain Bernier found on the bank of a small 
river an old cairn broken up; a stove bearing date of 1848 was found, strewn about 
were some broken bottles. Two men had been sent to a hill east of the one at 
which the deposit of the " Arctic " records had been made, where a cairn was 
found which the men took apart but no record was found, it had been removed; 
the cairn was partly rebuilt and all returned on board. On Monday the 15th 
the voyage was resumed towards the entrance of Lancaster sound. This body of 
water, it is well known by explorers, was discovered by Commander William Parry 
in 1819 and is the way to the North West Passage of so much historical interest, 
in deep water. Hope monument on North Devon was made on the 15th of August 
and the course was shaped to cape Wanderer on the same coast; Crokers bay which 
runs well in was crossed; no ice was visible excepting some small icebergs, scattered 
here and there. Shortly after Dundas harbour was passed; at this point a photo- 



17 

graph was taken but the harbour was not entered. Here began some difficult 
navigation owing to field ice, danger was imminent and it was necessary to stop 
and study the ice conditions. While thus engaged the field ice kept pressing 
the vessel into close quarters. At this time a bear on the ice was shot and secured. 
No water could be seen except to the south, and deeming it possible to make 
for the open water the vessel, which had been moored to the ice pressing on the 
coast, was again put underway. On the 17th the opening enabled the " Arctic " 
to get clear of her dangerous position, although with difficulty; a passage sufficient 
to permit the vessel to make clear water was steamed through. The wind from 
the W.S.W. rose, bringing with it rain. Fog now rested on the ice which again 
pressed the ship on every side, compelling her for safety to stop. But the time 




Training a Lost Dog, Ponds Inlet, August 1st, 1910. 



was made the most of by filling the fresh water tanks from the fresh water obtain- 
able on the ice. On the 18th some clear water was observable near the land, the 
vessel proceeded towards Erebus bay; at noon cape Herbo was passed, Leopold 
island sighted and Erebus bay was entered not long afterwards. 

The bay was full of ice at the time but narrow leads were taken advantage 
of to pass close to cape Riley which showed more water in its vicinity than other 
parts and here the anchor was dropped. Stores were landed to add to the pro- 
visions left on the previous voyage. This of course was done in case of an accident 
further west. Prudence dictated this step on account of the evidence, thus far, 
observed of the extremely backward state of ice movements in the region. During 
the former voyage few of the obstacles presented themselves, that had so far on 
this voyage been met since leaving the coast of Greenland. 



18 




Albert Harbour, Cache No. 1, August Uth, 1910. 



19 




Albert Harbour, Carpenter P. Norman, August, 1910. 



20 




First Polar Bear captured, North Devon, August 17th, 1910. 



21 




Cape Riley, North Devon, August 18th, 1910. 



In order to protect the stores landed a small building was put up by the 
carpenter; while this work was proceeding steps were taken to ascertain, if possible, 
the ice movements outside the bay. The second officer was sent to Beechy islancl 
to look for open water in Wellington channel, at the same time he had instructions 
to search for records left by Sir John Ross in a cairn on the island. The officer 
was successful in his search but another cairn examined by Captain Bernier con- 
tained nothing in the line of records. The following is a correct copy of the records 
left by Sir John Ross: — 

These are to certify the Yacht " Mary " has been left hauled up above high 
water mark as a vessel of refuge for the crews of vessels who are or may be wrecked 
within reach of cape Spencer and Beechy island, at the request of the Captains 
and Commanders of British and American vessels named on the margin, to which 
I have consented, the " Mary " being my property, and that this cairn is built to 
denote her position on the nearest part of the Beach, 



Resolute. 
Pioneer (s). 
n. s. Advance. 
d. Rescue. 
Lady Franklin. 
Sophia. 



Given under my hand on board the 
Felix Discovery vessel this 6th Sept., 
1850. 

(Signed) John Ross, 

Captain Royal Navy. 



Beechy Island, 

Cairn built, 

7th September, 1850. 



22 



Felix. 

Resolute. 

Advance. 
Lady Franklin. - 



ACCOUNT OF PROVISIONS. 

The Yacht " Mary " of 12 tons, completely fitted with masts, 
sails, rigging, cooking utensils, one cask flour and coals. 

3 casks of flour, 60 lbs. preserved meat, 28 lbs. tea, one.,,bale 
blankets. 

1 cask beef, 1 cask pork. 
-1 cask beef, 1 cask pork, 1 bag of pease. 



Captain Edward Belcher, H.M.S. " Assistance," 

H. Kellett " '' Resolute," 

Visited this cairn this 12th August, 1852. 
North Star Depot at Beechy Id. 
Assistance and Pioneer going up Wellington Channel. 
Resolute and Intrepid — Melville Id. 

(Initialled) E. B. 

It is a well known historical fact in the search for Sir John Franklin, that Com- 
mander E. Belcher was in command of an expedition consisting of five vessels, and 
the note at the bottom of the letter is therefore a certificate confirming the action 
of Sir John Ross. 

From Erebus bay the voyage was resumed but so much ice, in large fields, 
hindered her progress that navigation across Wellington channel, between North 
Devon and Cornwallis island, was exceedingly difficult. Fortunately the weather 
was calm, enabling the vessel when stopped, to make fast to the ice. Cape Hotham, 
on Cornwallis island, was then about 15 miles away and on resuming, leads of all 
kinds and in all directions were opened by the wind from the north and at 6 p.m., 
of the 20th of August, the " Arctic " was close to the cape, working westerly. Shortly 
after this the ship was made fast to ice off the cape. Several attempts were made 




• _ % •»-»%»» 



.v^. 



. '■>" 



Sir John Ross' Cairn, found on Cape Spencer, August 19th, 1910. 



23 




Finding Sir John Ross' Record, Cape Spencer, Aug. 19th, 1910 



to make progress but with very little success as the vessel was completely beset. 
The wind, however, made some changes in the ice movements and open leads 
permitted the vessel to coast along the land of Cornwallis island, in from 9 to 15 
fathoms of water until she arrived off Resolute bay, on the south western end of 
Cornwallis island. 

It was now the 22nd of August, showing that the progress to the west was not 
as rapid as desired, although no accident to the ship had occurred and strenuous 
efforts had been made. It has already been stated that the ice was later than usual 
in moving through the strait and the prospect at this point was far from being as 
bright as on the previous voyage to Winter harbour, on Melville island. 

On the 23rd of August, while attempting to get through a large pan of ice, 
a bear was noticed within rifle range and was shot. Part of the carcass was found 
fairly palatable by the men, but portions were fed to the dogs on board. The ship 
being unable to get through the pan of ice the course was changed to work around 
it and the attempt was successful. At this stage of the voyage boots and stockings 
of a suitable kind were issued to the crew, and some other stores, principally tobacco. 
On this day Sherringham point, Cornwallis island, was passed. 

Conditions, instead of becoming better, grew worse, the ice pressing on the coast 
made it somewhat dangerous and the position had to be changed but the vessel 
failed to make any distance for some hours. On the 24th at 2 p.m. she cleared the 
ice pressure through some leads and passed Intrepid harbour. This harbour is 
considered good for anchorage and shelter but as there was no reason for entering 
it the vessel proceeded to cross Macdougald bay, to find a channel towards Bath- 
urst island. 

Progress, however, was impeded by heavy ice and the vessel was made fast 
to the ice at Rosse point on the southwestern side of Cornwallis island. The cast 
of the lead showed 133 fathoms of water. On Thursday, the 25th of August, the 
ship got clear of the heavy ice and made for Pioneer bay, Cornwallis island, and 
in the forenoon dropped anchor under point Airy at the entrance of Pioneer bay. 



24 

Here a boat was launched and the Commander went ashore to deposit some records. 
A cairn was erected about 60 feet above sea level and the papers placed there 
containing information concerning the visit of the " Arctic." 

While here, Captain Bernier and the men who accompanied him, explored part 
of Cornwallis island in the immediate vicinity of Pioneer bay. As a result of this 
study of the physical features a natural harbour and a large and deep lake, with 
smaller lakes, were discovered. It was assumed by the Captain that these lakes had 
been part of the inner section of the bay, but no reasons are assigned for the change 
in the topography of the country, and therefore, the statement is made upon the 
belief of the explorers who evidently had some good grounds for supporting their 
opinions. 

So far, the movements of the vessel and ice difficulties encountered, have been 
mentioned, but no reference has been made to the topography of the country passed 
or of the distinctive features of the waters, currents, different ice formations, nor 
of the effect of winds in driving the ice on the coasts, and of checking it in its 
progress west and south and to the more open bodies of water and finally into 
the Atlantic ocean. The ice descends in its flow from the channels north of Lan- 
caster sound, Barrow and McClure straits, and from Beaufort sea and the Arctic 
ocean at the western end of McClure strait. Part of it finds its way by tidal cur- 
rents from bays and inlets on the southern side of the waters named, by the influence 
of the tide which has a general trend eastward. 

The main purpose of the report, so far, has been to show the daily movements 
of the vessel and to mention the points in geographical succession where landings 
had been made, or where the land had been approached. 

With the exception of Albert harbour. Ponds inlet, the absence of natives is 
remarkable. It may appear singular to the reader unacquainted with the history 
of explorations of the Arctic Archipelago that no mention is made of Eskimo 
settlements. All the explorers of the islands along which the " Arctic '' sailed, 
from Parry in 1819 dow^n to the present, noted the absence of native settlements 
along the northern side of Lancaster sound and other waters, to Melville island and 
Prince Patrick island on the extreme west. Discoveries of native occupation in 
the remote past have been made and some evidences of occasional \asits by Eskimos 
exist, but no proof of continuous habitation nor periodical migratory movements 
has been established. The country, or more definitely speaking, the islands form 
a great lone land so far as human habitation is concerned. Whalers may have 
followed their occupation in the waters but no traces lead to the conclusion of 
recent landing on the shores. 

Numerous monuments of exploration from the time of Sir John Franklin are 
there. The intrepid men of the British navy and those searchers for Franklin 
from Britain and other nations who volunteered their services, have left their 
tokens in many harbours and bays along the coasts. Cairns, caches and old 
stations stand to-day as silent proofs of the heroism and hardships of the enthu- 
siastic discoverers. Their tale has been told, and if no reports were in the Archives 
of the British Admiralty nor printed volumes extant, the history is graphically 
portrayed by the monuments the early navigators left behind them. One of the 
best known places is Erebus bay, where Franklin buried three of his men, another 
is Beechy island where Sir John Ross left the record printed in this report. Other 
stations established by the commanders sent to search for Sir John Franklin and by 
Commander Sir W. E. Parry, the discoverer of the Arctic Archipelago, will be 
mentioned as this voyage is further described. 

On the 25th of August the ship cleared from the coast of Pioneer bay and at 
8 p.m. she was off Baker island ; ice difficulties caused the vessel to make fast to 
the ice to enable her to hold the distance on this coast that had been made. Upon 
the loosening of the ice the vessel was again started and the south end of Moore 
island was passed in 13 fathoms of water. 

The compasses now became useless, the needle of one pointed E.N.E. and the 



25 

other W. by N., due to magnetic disturbances. The wind being off shore the fore 
and aft sails were set and the vessel was steered by the land. In passing Moore 
island it was noticed that the coast on the east side was intensely black, no doubt, 
showing signs of coal deposits. Ackland bay, at the south end of Bathurst island, 
was approached about 6 miles off shore in order to avoid a shoal patch ; soon cape 
Cockburn was reached bearing N.W. 4 miles off and a course towards Byam- 
Martin island was steered. The variations of the compasses at this time was 170° W., 
they were therefore of no value in making the course. Fog and clouds prevented 
observations with the sextant but under these conditions the vessel was success- 
fully steered by the wind as a guide. Here a new difficulty arose in addition to the 
ice movements ; the wind died away and in the fog and calm, caution and exper- 
ience were the main sources upon which the commander depended for the safety 
of his vessel and to make his course to Byam-Martin island. Pack ice everywhere 
was found in the way but persistent manoeuvring overcame this hindrance and 
the ship made fast to the ice about one mile off Byam-Martin island and 4 miles 
north of point Langley on this island. 

The island is described as a fine one, providing by its vegetation sustenance for 
herds of musk oxen. In this vicinity codfish must also find in the waters favourable 
conditions as one, a fine specimen, was found on the ice giving proof of the existence 
of this valuable food fish around the shores. At this stage no time could be 
given to fishing nor exploration of the natural resources of the land and water ; 
progress was essential and therefore no more definite information in this line was 
obtained. Observation, however, of musk oxen and the cod was important, as 
every Arctic navigator must keep in view the possibility of serious accident in 
which his ship may sink and all his provisions disappear, and if the fact of certain 
localities producing food in its natural state is known, there may be a chance of 
reaching the locality in the event of disaster. 

On Sunday the 28th of August, after religious service, some photographs 
were taken and the voyage continued, with the intention of crossing Byam-Martin 
channel. Conditions were even worse, if that could be, for, added to the new ice 




Sailors' Home, built by Captain Kellett, 1853, August 30th, 1910. 



26 

was old ice, combining to make the channel, now filled with large fields, dangerous 
to an extreme extent. Old ice, on accomit of sometimes being awash and the sub- 
merged parts extending laterally, made it dangerous to approach these bodies. 
The gathering of ice in these large fields was due to currents forcing the separate 
bodies together and no winds to drive them out of the channel. On Monday, the 
29th, little water could be seen ahead and several stops had to be made ; one for 
a whole day. Very little change occurred until the 30th when an opening permitted 
the vessel to proceed, making Griffith point on Melville island. A partial clearing 
of the fog enabled the men to see the coast at times, but heaving the lead was 
necessary to feel the way in approaching Dealy island, a small island on the coast 
of Melville island. Here a landing was made, and the upper cairn of Captain 
Kellett, R.N., Commander of the " Resolute " in 1852 to 1854, was visited. The 
records were left of the voyage of the " Arctic " near the flagstaff. The ground 
was quite familiar, as Captain Bernier had repaired the cache of Kellett, in 1908- 
1909, the years of his former voyage. Details of this work were published in the 
report of the " Cruise of the Arctic " published in 1910, including fac-similes of 
Kellet's documents, discovered by the side of the cache, with the imprint of a bear's 
paw on the papers. 




Ravine in Melville Island, September 2nd, 1910. 



Photographs of a boat left by Kellett were taken at the point where it had lain 
for about 57 years, weathering all kinds of winds and storms, from gentle breezes 
in summer accompanied by rain to the fierce blasts of Arctic storms and driving 
blizzards. This old boat was picked up by the men and taken on board for the 
purpose of placing it in the museum at Ottawa and in its place was left a new boat. 
The condition of the interesting relic is not here given in detail beyond stating that 
parts were well preserved but the side on which she had lain had decayed from 
moisture ; parts of the strakes in the waist had disappeared but the ribs were in 
place and all the thwarts. 



27 

No further time was lost, as tjie cache was as it had been left when Captain 
Bernier departed from it in 1909. From Dealy island an open passage of about 
two miles in width extended along the south eastern coast of Melville island. Cape 
Bounty situated between Dealy island and Winter harbour, was passed close, per- 
mitting a good view of the land. Interesting historical associations with cape 
Bounty are recalled by the voyage of the "Arctic." The cape was named " Bounty " 
by Parry then Lieutenant in the Royal Navy and the commander of an expedition 
to find the northwest passage. A bounty was offered by the British Admiralty to 
be awarded the ship's company proceeding farthest west towards the Arctic ocean 
west of North America. As Lieutenant W. E. Parry, in the ''Hecla," and Lieu- 
tenant Matthew Liddon, in the " Griper," had penetrated through the waters now 
known as Lancaster sound and Barrow strait as far as longitude 110 47 west near 
the outlet to the Polar sea, Parry could well claim the eminence of having made a 
voyage with deep sea vessels many hundreds of miles farther west than any navi- 
gator and was entitled to the bounty. Associating the liberality of the Admiralty 
with the discovery of Melville island and the first point of land reached on the island 
he named the cape " Bounty." He afterwards discovered the outlet to the Polar 
sea by sailing to longitude 113° west of Greenwich. The information respecting the 
discovery of the outlet, nine islands and Prince Regent inlet, was obtained from a 
parchment left by Parry in a cairn near Winter harbour and discovered by Captain 
Bernier in 1908 and brought to Ottawa in 1909. The parchment is part of a Mari- 
ner's certificate and the account was written on the back and signed by E. W. 
Parry and Matthew Liddon. Sir W. E. Parry's report upon his discoveries and the 
part taken by Lieutenant Liddon, in the almost superhuman efforts made to advance 
with sailing vessels in these higher latitudes, and the hardships endured, contains 
an account in minute detail. Parry's expedients to keep his men from dying of 
scurvy are amongst the most interesting descriptions given, as they afford some idea 
of his great resource as an Arctic navigator. His ship, the "Hecla," was more 
fortunate in escaping accidents than the " Griper " that accompanied him. The 
determination, sound judgment and faith in himself were the qualities that dis- 
tinguished him. In a former voyage, under Sir John Ross, the eastern entrance of 
Lancaster sound was pronounced nothing more than a bay running in for a few 
miles with mountains behind it, and not a navigable channel, as Parry supposed it 
to be, and proved in the expedition fitted out by the Admiralty and placed under his 
command, with a view of discovering a northwest passage from Baffin bay to the 
Polar sea. 

Finding that the opening continued from cape Bounty to Winter harbour, the 
"Arctic " made her way easily into the harbour and anchored in 8 fathoms, on the 
31st of August. The entrance was made without difficulty by the aid of stone 
beacon ranges, estabhshed in 1909 by Captain Bernier before leaving the harbour 
on his return voyage to Quebec. All the beacons were found in position and saved 
the trouble of making soundings for several miles as was done in the previous 
entry. 



28 




Cache No. 3 completed, Winter Harbour, September 2nd, 1910. 



CHAPTER III. 



While at Winter harbour precautions were taken to land provisions and build 
a covering to protect them. Unnecessary as this may appear to the inexperienced 
yet it was reasonable to the men who faced the uncertainties and dangers incident 
to navigation among islands along a coast entirely uninhabited. Every channel 
and every body of water was choked with ice, passing out from bays, inlets, 
channels and from Beaufort sea. Of the three voyages made by Captain Bernier 
in the ''Arctic '' the third was the most difficult. The ice of all kinds, from ice that 
had formed the previous winter to ice showing several years of growth, was at the 
time being discharged from every channel on its way eastward. This great dis- 
charge occurs in cycles of years. Old ice is known by the discolouration caused by 
soil or sand which marks the years of accumulation. High winds carry across 
the country sand, gravel and soil, some of which, in the passage, lodges upon the 
surface of the ice and is covered in the ice forming periods by new ice from rain 
or melting snow and the water from the sea. Polar sea icebergs are formed in this 
way and may be forty or fifty feet thick. They differ from glacier icebergs in 
appearance and weight with less of confined air and, therefore, sink deeper in the 
water in comparison. 

Similar heavy bodies of ice were the cause in the early fifties of the last century 
of the abandonment of five British naval vessels, namely, the " Resolute," Captain 
Henry Kellett, commander; the " Investigator," Lieutenant Robert McClure, 
commander; the " Intrepid," Lieutenant Francis L. McClintock, commander; the 
" Assistance," Captain Edward Belcher, commander, and the "Pioneer," com- 
manded by Commander Sherard Osborn. All of these vessels, excepting the " In- 
vestigator," belonged to the expedition in command of Sir Edward Belcher, but the 



29 

" Investigator " was the consort of the " Enterprise " under Captain Cohnson, 
sent in search of Frankhn, in 1850, by Behring sea. Lieutenant McClure sailed as 
far north as the western end of the Northwest deep water passage to Bay of Mercy, 
where his vessel became fast in ice, and was abandoned, after examination of the 
crew who had become weakened by scurvy and the rigours of the northern climate. 
An investigation of their condition had been made by orders of Captain Kellett, the 
senior in rank of McClure, from Dealy island. The step was taken with a view of 
preventing casualties that might prove fatal to a large number of men, although 
McClure and his officers were anxious to stay with the vessel, which had still 
large quantities of provisions, in the hope that she might be released. 

Whilst the general cause of ice movements have been ascertained, the local 
movements are apparently unknown to any great extent. This, therefore, has 
led all navigators connected with expeditions for making the Northwest passage, 
to provide against emergencies and Captain Bernier followed the example set by 
those who preceded him. 

The small building, to protect the provisions left by the " Arctic," was 
completed, but no further stay was necessary and a north north east wind having, 
to a large extent, broken the ice, preparations were made to leave Winter harbour. 
The captain had sealed his records in a tin case and fastened it to the staff on 
Parry's rock, according to his intentions, made known before he left Ottawa. On 
the 2nd of September the vessel got clear of the harbour but the departure was 
more difficult than the entry, due to fog which obscured the beacons. No leads 
to the south could be seen and, therefore, it was necessary to proceed in a northerly 
direction. The course was along the land as no openings were seen to the south, 
and the ice reached, so far as the eye could tell, across to Banks island. This 
island was sighted about cape Hamilton but as no open water appeared, no advance 
could be made towards it. The second officer was sent to the mast head but no 
openings were seen in any direction. The vessel had progressed some distance 
but owing to the solid compact condition of the ice it was decided to give up any 
further attempt to force the ship and endanger the lives of all on board. At the 
turning point cape Dundas, Melville island, was sighted, 25 miles off, bearing N.E. 




Melville Island, bed of river, Sept. 2nd, 1910. 



30 

The following is an extract of a typewritten copy of the report of the second 
officer Robert S. James to Captain Bernier : — 

" On September the 2nd I went to the crow's nest to see how it looked south- 
ward, after remaining a while I fancied I could see ice in the port hand and ahead, 
this I found correct for as the ship got nearer I could distinctly see the floe. At 
11.30 the ship's course had to be altered a little more westerly and at noon she 
came to a full stop, then turned more northerly to around the point of the floe. 
We were at noon about 30 miles southward from cape Providence. Now when 
I say floe I mean in this case that it was something unusual for I never saw such ice ; 
it must have been 50 to 60 feet thick with hills on it as high as any berg. One 
saw in coming around this floe it was unbroken, it must have been as old as Adam. 
I now gave up all hope of ever crossing McClure strait. ... At 8 p.m. I again 
mounted to the nest, I noticed a few slight breakages in the ice barrier; the ice now 
circled around to westward and northward right into Liddon gulf. I now saw 
that our chance to cross McClure strait was finished; I could see cape Hamilton 
and land in vicinity quite distinctly. . . . We were now 30 miles S.W. of cape 
Ross, Melville island and had reached the farthest point in this direction of any 
vessel. ... At this point the vessel's head was turned towards Melville island east- 
ward and beat a hasty retreat, for the easterly wind was pushing the ice on Mel- 
ville and it was only by hard work that we got back to cape Providence." 

On September the 3rd, the weather was most unfavourable, rain was fa;lling 
and freezing. The vessel was steered along the coast and during an interval the 
weather cleared a little, musk-oxen were seen by Captain Bernier on the shore near 
the beach. The second officer and four men were sent on shore to secure some of 
the animals; they killed twenty-three of them and it took all day from 8 a.m. 
until 6 p.m. to convey the carcasses on board ship. The wind was rising from the 
N.E.; notwithstanding the head wind the vessel passed Phillips and Hearne points 
going slowly without steam. On the 4th September the " Arctic " passed Winter 
harbour and cape Bounty and was abreast of Skene bay at noon. In passing 
Beverly inlet a good view of it was obtained, it is surrounded by highlands and 
would not evidently be a good winter harbour as very little sun is likely to shine 
around the shores. From this point the vessel worked towards Byam-Martin 
island. The ice around the east coast of Melville island and the west coast of 
Byam-Martin island, consisted of old ice in large pans, making it difficult to 
navigate. In working towards Byam-Martin island the course was changed to 
the north but getting opposite point Langford on Bathurst island, the " Arctic " 
had to return southward along the coast of Melville island in Byam-Martin channel. 
On the 6th September the vessel passed cape Gillman on Byam-Martin island, 
three miles off shore; the course was shaped for cape Cockburn on Bathurst island 
which gave good leads. Shortly after this cape Playfair, on Bathurst island, was 
sighted, and then Mt. Bullock, which is about 1,000 feet high. It was impossible 
to use the compass and the vessel was compelled to make her way by sighting the 
land. On September the 7th the water was very thick with slob ice, but the 
" Arctic " approached cape Cockburn which was bearing N.E. three miles. At 
this point an examination was made of the vessel's sides at the water line,, to 
ascertain if she had been badly chafed or cut by ice. Moore island and Baker 
island were successively passed and Browne island was reached, lying about two 
miles off. The vessel was then making good way under sail. On Thursday the 
8th, the course was taken towards cape Hotham on Cornwallis island, and in that 
direction a great deal of ice was scattered about the strait. 

The channel was crossed with difficulty and Beechy island passed, the ship 
was now making good way at the rate of nine knots an hour and then progress was 
made towards cape Bullen, some long squalls accompanied by rain and frost occurred 
on the way. The rigging on the windward side was covered with ice which made 
it difficult to work the ship. The vessel, however, on approaching Admiralty inlet 
was kept away from cape Crauford during a snow squall making it necessary to 



31 

take soundings. The crew was at this time set to work taking off ice that had 
formed on the rigging and deck; everything was secured in anticipation of a heavy 
blow. The snow continued more or less in squalls. The course was now shaped 
towards Admiralty inlet and in approaching the inlet three icebergs were noticed 
at the entrance; they had grounded on a shallow bank. It is usual, and not at 
all an uncommon occurrence, for icebergs to ground on these banks at the entrance 
of the inlet and also, at cape Crauford. 

The ship had made good progress under sail, with a fair wind; the weather 
had cleared and the " Arctic " passed Lord Strathcona sound and then Adams 
sound, where Arctic harbour is situated, in latitude 73 8 N., longitude 85 03 W. 
As the vessel passed along the land the formation was carefully observed and a 
number of photographs taken. Shortly after, Richards islands, consisting of four 
different islands, were observed. Here it may be noted that there are four islands 
and not three, as indicated by the chart. The next important place is Yeaman 




The Eskimos of Arctic Bay, September 13th, 1910. 



island; there was not much ice in this part of the inlet at the time and at 8 p.m., 
on Saturday, the 10th of September, the vessel came to anchor in 25 fathoms of 
water off Kikertoo. In Enghsh the name " Kikertoo " is a high mound, and 
Ekertoo a small mound. On the following morning the anchor was raised and the 
vessel proceeded farther in the inlet. While opposite Ekertoo it was noticed from 
the mast head that the whole bay farther along the inlet, was full of old ice, this 
fact determined the point respecting the selection of winter quarters; the bay 
would certainly be an advantageous place to begin operations in exploring the 
country, but the queation of being able to leave in the early part of the summer^ 
led to the decision of turning back to find another place for winter quarters. The 
vessel, was put about and shortly after she sailed into Arctic bay. This is a fine 
bay with a good entrance, having plenty of room for a fleet of ship's. The place 
chosen for winter quarters was near the bottom of the bay, in twenty-five fathoms. 



32 

of water, one-quarter of a mile off the west shore. In the vicinity of this anchorage 
there is an Eskimo settlement. The natives were evidently pleased with a visit 
of a vessel and went on board by permission of the Commander. Not only the 
men, but the women and children, to the number of eighteen, clambered up the 
side of the ship and got on deck. According to the custom, the men were given 
tobacco to smoke which they requested, and this indicates a friendly feeling. 




Entrance of Adams Sound. 



33 




Entrance Johnston Harbour, Adams Sound, September, 1910. 



CHAPTER IV. 



On Tuesday, the 13th of September, the crew was put at work unbending some 
of the sails, with a view of putting the vessel entirely in winter quarters. The 
commander went ashore to pay a visit to the Chief of the Eskimos, whose name is 
Nasso, and to have a census taken of the natives in the locality. 

. Before describing the preparations for putting the vessel into winter quarters 
and the fall explorations, a short historical sketch of the discovery of the entrance 
of Admiralty inlet and a description of the geological formation of the surrounding 
country may be interesting to those unacquainted with Arctic explorations. 

The famous discoverer Parry when returning from his discovery of Lancaster 
sound and the nine islands now called the Arctic Archipelago, entered the inlet 
and sailed down in the " Hecla " to cape Franklin. He named the inlet Admiralty 
inlet in honour of the British Admiralty which commissioned him, in 1819, to search 
for a northwest passage to the Polar sea. He considered it imprudent to risk his 
vessel, which had already withstood many storms and much ice-pressure, in the inlet, 
then full if ice. The danger of being beset also faced him and perhaps unduly 
delayed his return to England with the report of his important discoveries. Parry 
had sailed down Prince Regent inlet, west of Admiralty inlet, 150 miles on the way 
west in search of the Northwest passage, but this inlet was comparatively clear of 
ice. On entering Admiralty inlet, he believed that it ran far to the south and sur- 
mised that the land between Admiralty inlet and Prince Regent inlet was an 
island, in this he was not quite correct for Admiralty inlet ends in a bay in Baffin 
island, leaving a considerable width of land between the bay and Fury and Hecla 
strait and part of the gulf of Boothia. 



34 

Captain Adams of the whaler " Arctic," surveyed Admiralty inlet in 1872 
and named Richards islands and Yeamans islands. A sound named Adams sound, 
after this explorer, running eastwardly for some miles, was also entered and Arctic 
bay, at the northwest entrance of the sound. 

The entrance of Admiralty inlet is about thirty miles in width and at the west- 
ern side, around cape Crauford, are dangers requiring a wide berth when entering. 
In the entrance icebergs ground but the water may be considered deep for 
vessels. 

Captain Bernier entered this inlet in 1906 and passed south the whole extent 
until the water became too shallow for the " Arctic " to reach the extreme southern 
end. 

The geological formation is, in a general way, described by A. P. Low in his 
cruise in the " Neptune," in 1903. It does not appear that Low entered the inlet 
to examine its shores, but he states that the land on both sides is of the same 
formation as the eastern side of Baffin island, which is granite, gneiss and other 
archaian rocks. Prince Regent inlet is described as partly of the same formation, 
with limestone, sandstone and other bedded stone along the shores. 

Chief Nasso informed Captain Bernier that minerals were to be found on one 
side of Arctic bay; search was made for these minerals by the Captain and quarter- 
master Chasse, but without success, the only evidence being some copper stains. 
During the search a rabbit was seen, proving the existence of animals in the vicinity 
of Arctic bay. 

On the 14th of September, being a calm clear day, it was noticed that ice 
was beginning to make in the bay. An exploring party was made up of the Captain 
and several Officers, to examine the east side of a large lake. This lake was named 
Marcil, Explorations were continued; a bay or fine harbour was discovered in 
Arctic bay and named Johnston harbour in honour of the Deputy Minister of 
Marine and Fisheries Department. Measurement was made showing the harbour 
to be two miles long by one mile wide, well-sheltered from all winds and suitable 
for wintering a vessel. Specimens of various kinds of stone, plants and some 
Eskimo instruments were collected and taken on board. It was surmised that the 




Victor Bay, looking north, September, 1910. 



35 

lake which had been discovered would contain fish, and a small party of there or 
four men, with fishing tackle, was sent to the lake, but no fish of any size were 
caught. 

On the 15th, some stores and the boats belonging to the " Arctic " were taken 
on shore and placed in safe quarters, then provisions, consisting of pork and bread, 
were placed under shelter in case an accident might prevent the exploring parties 
from reaching the vessel at any time. A comparison of the climate between Arctic 
bay and Winter harbour on the same day of the month, in two different years, shows 
that ice forms much earlier in Winter harbour. On September the 16th, 1908, 
the ice in Winter harbour was eight inches in thickness, the anchor of the " Arctic " 
was raised above the ice which surrounded the vessel; in Arctic bay, 1910, the ship 
was lying at anchor and the ice just appearing on the surface, in very thin layers. 

The explorations at greater distances from the ship were now begun; ice boat 
No. 1 was got ready and provisioned for fifteen days; fuel, tent and sleeping bags 
were also taken. The party was in charge of Mr. Janes, the second officer, and the 
intention of the exploration was the collection of some natural specimens and 
hunting caribou for fresh meat. The Captain, Dr. Bolduc and a small party pro- 
ceeded towards Victor bay, and on the way discovered some lakes; the temperature 
at the time was 27°. The first officer was left in charge of the ship whilst the car- 
penter was working preparing scantling for erecting a roof over the ship's deck; 
the Chief Engineer emptied one boiler and kept steam in the other for heating the 
ship. 

The 18th, being Sunday, a religious service was held which Chief Nasso and 
his son attended. There were on board at the time thirty-eight dogs which were 
fed daily at noon with seal flesh. In a sally from the ship, a small lake was discov- 
ered by the Captain, which he named lake Caron after the Minister of Agriculture 
of the province of Quebec; a sample of water was taken from this lake for testing. 
During the next few days the most important occurrences were the setting of a 
cement pillar by Mr Lavoie for use in taking observations, and the making of har- 
ness of sealskin for the dogs by the natives. The ice had now begun to surround 
the shores and to form towards the vessel, enabling the observer to go ashore 
upon it to the observatory, the ice had also made to a depth of five inches 
on the lakes. It was, therefore, thick enough to draw to the vessel, where 
it was melted and the water used for drinking. At this date, namely, the 23rd 
of September, Arctic bay was frozen over but Adams sound was free of ice. The 
deck covering was completed, but the weather at the time was fine and clear. A 
half holiday was given the men on Saturday which was made use of by them to 
visit the Eskimo tupiks. On the 25th, being Sunday, a religious service was held 
and the natives attended the service. They had no record of the day being Sunday, 
but noticing that the men were not at work they assumed that it must be the 
day on which religious service was held. They seemed rather fond of visiting 
the vessel when permission was given. Whilst the natives seem to look forward 
to Sunday with some degree of pleasure the men on board the ship found it the long- 
est day in the week, because the monotony was not broken by work of some kind, 
except by the cooks and stewards. The Captain, however, found it a day of leisure 
for reading and acquainting himself with the expeditions of former explorers. On 
Monday, the carpenter had begun the work of making sleds. An incident occurred 
which created some interest by the return of the cabin boy Chartrand with a fox 
that he had caught near the lake from which the ice was taken to melt for drinking 
water. The weather continued fine with the wind from the N. E.; at this period 
a chart was prepared for the use of Mr. Lavoie, the surveyor, who was preparing 
for a trip to cape Kater in Prince Regent inlet. As the ice became thicker the men 
went on shore more frequently. There was no snow on the ground and the sleds 
could not be used on the land; it was noticed that seals were becoming abundant. 

On the 29th of September, the ice being about four inches in thickness, the 
anchor was raised and put on a gangway on the ice. The surveyor was engaged 



36 




Stepping on board, September, 1910. 



37 

making a chart of Admiralty Inlet and the known part of Prince Regent inlet. 
On Saturday, the 1st of October, a calm day, the sun rose at 7 a.m., and the ship 
had everything in readiness for the winter. At this time the health of the men was 
good and they desired to go on shore and take exercise ; they were encouraged in this 
by lending them ten traps to set for the purpose of catching foxes. The Eskimos 
had built their igloos of ice in preparation for the winter but had not a large stock 
of food at the igloos ; the practice amongst them is to cache the animals near where 
they have been killed. It was learned that they had made preparations for winter 
by caching a number of animals. The custom of sending the men for exercise 
was kept up and this appeared to be enjoyed by them in preference to remaining 
in cooped-up quarters. 

So far, Arctic bay had proved an ideal place for wintering and different from 
the stormy and more rigorous climate of the Arctic Archipelago where high winds 
almost constantly blow. Snow was seen only in small quantities in the valleys. 
Some variation in the work and exercise was made by giving a number of the crew 
work in cutting ice on the lake for use on board ship. The ice was very clear and 
pronounced by the doctor to be the purest that he had seen in his voyages in the 
Arctic regions. Some pleasing news had been brought by the party sent to Adams 
sound where a discovery of copper had been made, and a specimen brought to 
the ship by Mr. English, the prospector, who was one of the ship's company. He 
reported that he saw good signs of mineral in the lower end of Adams sound. See 
report of Mines Department, Appendix 7, for test of these specimens. The second 
officer, R. Janes and A. English made a second trip to Adams sound for the purpose 
of prospecting and if possible, securing specimens of various kinds, including 
minerals. 




Arctic Bay, Eskimo Dogs, 1910-1911. 



38 




Leaving Camp, October 13th, 1910, Admiralty Inlet, 8 miles south of Cape Cunningham. 



CHAPTER V. 

On the 10th of October, Mr. Lavoie, the surveyor, first officer Morin, Mr. 
Mathe and two natives Koudnow and Monkey-shaw started from the ship to 
survey Prince Regent inlet from cape Kater towards Fury and Hecla strait. Mr. 
Morin went to the end of Admiralty inlet and the rest of the party crossed the 
land to cape Kater. The first officer returned to the ship alone as instructed. 

Soundings through the ice of Arctic bay were begun by third officer Mac- 
Donald and a plan was made. The usual steps were taken to put ballast on board 
to trim the vessel before she was frozen in solid. Ice was cut and placed in position 
around the vessel in preparation for banking her sides with snow, when a sufficient 
quantity could be gathered for that purpose. Holes were made in the ice, at each 
gangway, to enable the vessel's crew to get a supply of salt water, in case of fire. 
The water was kept from freezing by pouring petroleum in the holes, and occasion- 
ally, day and night, breaking up any newly made ice. Fresh water ice in larger 
quantities was now brought from the lake, and this work afforded opportunities 
for giving the whole of the crew exercise in the open air. It was not difficult to 
convey the ice to the ship as the lake was about nine hundred feet higher than the 
sea level. Several of the men were put at work to build an officers' igloo and one 
for use in magnetic observations. Some photographs were taken of Johnston 
harbour and Adams sound. The Commander of the " Arctic," in several instances, 
referred, in his log book, to the favourable location of Arctic bay for placing the 
ship in winter quarters. Up to the 15th of October, the weather had been fine 
and calm. Occasionally, the sky was overcast, but the sun was shining either on 
some part of the land or bay for a portion of every day. The absence of high 
winds was a notable feature of the locality, permitting every kind of outdoor work 
to be carried on without interruption or suffering from cold; in this connection it 
may be stated, that in the event of mineral discoveries and prospecting, no 



39 

liindrance to operations may be feared from severe storms. In the fall of the year 
the same conditions enabled explorations to be made inland. Whatever obstruc- 
tions may be found in the shape of broken and rough ground, it can safely be said 
that no obstacles arise from weather conditions ; generally, the sky is clear and very 
little snow falls as early as it does in regions along the coast of Baffin island, or 
those regions where large bodies of water lie opposite the shores. The temperature 
is extremely low at times, but absence of moisture enables human beings to endure 
it without the discomfort experienced where the winds are high, the air moist 
and the precipitation greater. 

A guage was set up on the starboard side of the ship, to be observed daily by 
the third officer who was keeping a record of the growth of the ice. On the 17th of 
October, the ice measured eleven inches in thickness in the bay, but was from two to 
three inches thicker in the fresh water lake. At this period, the sun set at 4.40 p.m. 
On this day, preparations were made to send a party to meet the second ojfi&cer 
and his men at the bottom of Adams sound. Captain Bernier and Alfred Trem- 
blay made some searches for minerals around Johnston harbour. In this search 
some copper pyrites was picked up and it was noticed that the rocks showed stains 




Taking in ballast, Arctic Bay, fall of 1910. 



similar to copper stains; it may here be stated, that in these efforts to discover 
minerals no proper means were at hand to test mineralized specimens that 
were obtained in situ, or from the float observed during the research of any of 
the parties sent out from the ship. This fact is mentioned so that no misunderstand- 
ing may arise from the supposed discovery of economic ores, the reader is therefore 
referred to the report of the Mineralogist of the Mines Department at Ottawa, 
who tested the specimens of mineral ore and shale and analysed the coal brought 
by the " Arctic," from Arctic bay, Adams sound and other parts around the shores 
of Admiralty inlet. The pyrites discovered by Captain Bernier near Johnston 
harbour, was said by him to be copper pyrites, and he also stated that the stains 
noticed in prospecting in the same vicinity were copper stains. Having thus 
guarded the reader, no responsibility can be taken by the Department for state- 



40 

merits of the prospecting parties who, no doubt, believed that they had made- 
discoveries of different kinds of minerals, but may have been mistaken in the kind;, 
the report of the Mines Department is, therefore, the only official guide for deter- 
mining the various economic ores brought back from the regions where explorations 
were made by parties from the cruiser " Arctic," in this voyage. Second officer 
Janes and party returned to the ship at twelve o'clock on the night of the 18th, 
and reported on the 19th, that a good many caribou, a few foxes and some rabbits 
had been seen; samples of different kinds of mineral rock were brought in by this 
party. Snow fell during the night of the 19th, the wind at the time was blowing, 
from the S.E. moderately. The men were set at work on the 20th with shovels 
to form an embankment around the ship, within the space formed by the tiers, 
of ice that had been placed in the position referred to above. The work 
was varied by completing the officers' igloo and the observatory. The sun was 
getting low and was lost sight of at 3.15 in the afternon, but the moon was shining, 
day and night. During this day, the 20th, deer were sighted about four miles off 
from the ship, on land, and on the 21st a party was sent out with the object of 
hunting these animals in order to procure fresh meat, to be used during the winter. 
The hunters, however, were not successful although seventeen of the animals were 
seen. 

On Sunday, the 23rd, the sun shone for a portion of the day but there was very 
little heat felt from it. The Union Jack was sent up to the mast head and was- 
observed by the natives, who enquired the reasons for raising the flag orTthis- 
particular day of the week; as far as possible the object was explained, informing, 
them, further, that the flag was theirs as well as ours, it seemed to please them. 
Photographs of the King were given to the natives, which had been presented to 
Captain Bernier by Mr. Tanguay , provision merchant of Quebec ; they were much 
pleased with the attention and placed them in their igloos. On Monday, an igloo 
was begun for the purpose of placing stores and clothing in case of a fire on board 
ship, this was an extra precaution and taken in addition to the other arrangements 
on board the ship itself. 




A. English and party. 



41 




Moffet Bay, large iceberg at entrance, October 15th, 1910. 




Lavoie-Morin party camping 2 miles south of Moffet Bay, southern point, 
Admiralty Inlet, October, 1910. 



42 




Lavoie-Morin party on Admiralty Inlet, October, 1910. 

Mr. English, who had been prospecting around Victor bay, made a discovery 
of some shale or rock, which he believed from its weight, was valuable; ten tons 
of it was afterwards placed on board ship, and 4ihe prospector's surmise, as to its 
value, was not proven by analysis at the Mines Department at Ottawa. It will be 
observed by reference to the report of that Department, that the shale contains 
no percentage of oil. The prospecting, both by the second officer Janes and Mr. 
English, was continued. The weather at the latter end of the month was fine, very 
little snow had fallen and Strathcona inlet was open for a width of about half a 
mile, but Admiralty inlet, generally speaking, might be considered closed, so far as 
the working of ships is concerned, at this period of the year. The days were be- 
coming very short, the sun rose over the hills at about nine o'clock a.m. 

On the 31st of October, Mr. 0. J. Morin, first officer, arrived from the extreme 
southern end of Admiralty inlet, in 71° 3' N. He reported that he had left Mr. 
Lavoie, the surveyor, and party, all well and going to Agoo, and, further, that it was 
the intention of Mr. Lavoie to leave caches at different places. Mr. Morin had 
returned by another route from that which he had taken in going to the end of the 
inlet. He had called at Moffet bay, where he had seen some deer going south in 
their migratory movements from the more northern parts of Baffin island. 

The first of November was a very fine day for the time of the year. The day 
being All Saints, the crew and officers spent a portion of daylight on shore. The 
search for minerals was maintained notwithstanding the short period of daylight, 
by Mr. English and Alfred Tremblay, in the vicinity of Johnston harbour. It 
had been observed that gravel and rock gave promise of containing minerals of 
one kind or other, and samples were brought to the ship. 

The health of the men had been carefully looked after by weekly inspection, 
so that Dr. Bolduc was able to report, on the 2nd of November, that the men were 
in a healthy state. When the natives came on board the ship, information was 
obtained from them by questioning; much local knowledge of Admiralty inlet and 
the northern part of Baffin island was, therefore, acquired. 



43 




Most easterly of Richards Islands, October, 1910. 



On the 4th of November the sun had disappeared from the horizon, but when 
the sky was cloudless the moon shone more brightly than in southern regions, 
giving sufficient light for movements about Arctic bay. There was sufficient light 
to continue the work of sliding ice from the lake to the vessel. Movements were 
made during twilight. Although the sun was not visible from the ship, yet it shone 
upon the tops of the highest hills on clear days up to the 6th of November; after 
that there was but very litte daylight and no reflection of the sun anywhere. The 
weather at this time became much colder; the sails, which had been unbent and 
placed in the after locker, were taken from the locker, examined and dried. The 
men were occupied in several kinds of work and service; some were hunting seals for 
food for the dogs, some were prospecting and others were procuring ice for fresh 
water. A large quantity was necessary for melting and use in drinking, cooking 
and heating the ship by means of steam. 

Some observations were made around the shores of Admiralty inlet, and it 
was noticed that the ice grounded at different points at low water, indicating that 
there are shoals in the inlet running out from the shores. 

Provisions for the months of November and December were taken on shore and 
put into the cache. An eclipse of the moon gave an opportunity for observations to 
get the correct time. The chronometer was fast of Greenwich time, forty-three 
seconds, shewing that it had gained from July, when the vessel started, to the 17th 
of November. Some change from the ordinary and monotonous condition occurred 
by the return of Mr. Lavoie and party from Agoo. Mr. Lavoie reported that he 
had reached thirty miles north of Agoo in Prince Regent inlet, and, also, that he had 
seen sixty Eskimos at Agoo; two of these natives accompanied Mr. Lavoie to the 
ship and from them information was received respecting the west entrance of the 
strait and some description of the passage into Fury and Hecla strait. It is worthy 
of notice that the weather, in Arctic bay, was exceedingly fine for the time of the 



44 

year, namely, the 20th of November. The ice was then seventeen inches thick in 
the bay, the temperature of the water twenty-eight degrees and the snow on the 
ice about four inches in depth. 

From this time on it was difficult to keep the crew engaged at different kinds 
of work owing to the darkness; it was useless to send research parties to any dis- 
tance from the ship and it was impossible to hunt. The Eskimo village was occasion- 
ally visited for the purpose of securing information about Baffin island. There 
was very little snow on the ice, therefore it was not possible to proceed with the 
embankment of the hull. The only exercise that could be taken was marching 
around the vessel in order to keep the men in a good state of health. The weather 
continued mild for this high latitude; some indoor work in the line of developing pho- 
tographs and making plans was performed by the officers. The engineers were 
also engaged in overhauling the machinery. The measurement of the thickness of 
the ice was kept up and thermometer readings recorded. 

In order to keep the men in good humour under the very dismal conditions 
prevailing during the twenty-four hours of darkness, concerts were given by those 
who were singers and players of instruments. These efforts were enjoyed by all 
on board including the Eskimos; on occasions of this kind some of the Eskimo 
people belonging to the village visited the ship and a few of them sang Eskimo 
songs; an effort was made to interpret English and French songs to the natives, 
by this means those on board were kept interested although under unfavoumble 
conditions. There was no prospect of daylight returning until February, and it 
may, therefore, easily be imagined that the ingenuity and resources of the Captain 
and Officers were taxed. Fire drill formed part of the exercise on board, and the 
inspection of the men's quarters as well as their persons was kept up by the doctor 
and other officers. As evidence of the mild temperature existing, it may be stated 
that ice increased in thickness during the week beginning the 20th of November 
only one-half an inch — ^the total thickness being seventeen and one-half inches. 
Valuable reports of the wind and its velocity could not be made, due to the calm 
and the shelter from the surrounding hills. There was neither twilight nor light of 
any kind from the sun excepting a bright belt low down in the sky towards the south. 




Sawing ice, Lake Caron, November, 1910. 



45 




Inside Massan's igloo, November, 1910. 



Referring to the records that were left at Ponds inlet on the way west, these 
records contain a description of the proposed voyage of the Arctic to make the North- 
west passage. As the attempt to pass into the polar sea was not successful, Cap- 
tain Bernier desired to send letters to the outside world from the station at Ponds 
inlet, apprising the Department of the whereabouts of the Steamer " Arctic." 
The second officer was instructed to make ready with some men to proceed to the 
whaling station at Ponds inlet, with mail from the ship for the officer in charge 
of the station, to forward by the first whaling vessel that might pass out for Dundee 
or any other port and to transfer this mail on arrival. 

This trip to Ponds inlet could be made by the use of some of the dogs. In 
addition to preparing for this expedition, some of the men were occupied in removing 
stores from some of the rooms, in order that workshops might be fitted up for 
carpentry and machinery work. 

During the latter part of November, the darkness had increased and fogs 
had prevented the men from leaving the ship. The frozen fogs intensified the 
darkness, but on days in which there was no fog, the men were employed drawing 
snow from a distance, that had been gathered in heaps on the ice of the bay. The 
snow-fall up to the 1st of December, measured only five inches in depth, therefore, 
making it necessary to gather snow at a distance. 

On the 7th December, the embankment around the vessel was nine feet high, 
seven feet in width and twenty feet longer than the ship. This made the quarters 
within the ship comfortable, the temperature varying from sixty degrees to 
seventy degrees as compared with fifty degrees in other years, with similar 
embankments. 

The weather at Arctic bay continued comparatively mild and when the sky 
was cloudless, the moon produced a cheerful feeling. Of those so disposed, the 
officers and men of the ship, were engaged in writing letters to be sent to Button 
point by the Second Officer and party. The mail was closed on Sunday, the 11th 
of December, at 9 p.m., and on Monday, the 12th, Second Officer Robt. S. Janes 



46 

and party left the ship for Button point with three sledges, thirty dogs and one 
native who was sent with him to return immediately from Button point, after 
delivery of the mail by Mr. Janes. 

The weather was becoming cold; on the 15th of December the thermometer 
recorded 30 below zero. Study was being made by the Captain at this time of 
the charts and reports of former explorers of Fury and Hecla strait, with a view 
of passing down from Prince Regent inlet through Fury and Hecla strait and Fox 
channel into Hudson bay with the ship in early summer. The natives who visited 
the " Arctic " had been along the coasts of those waters, and their knowledge was 
useful in arriving at a conclusion respecting the possibility of getting through to 
Hudson bay by the channels just mentioned; they stated that the ice was always 
late in leaving Fury and Hecla strait, and still later in Fox channel. It is a well 
known fact that very heavy ice, in large quantities, is carried each year into Hudson 
bay and it often blocks the western end of Hudson strait ; Captain Bernier had some 
experience in navigating Hudson strait and Hudson bay in 1906. The natives 
msntioned the difficulties that a vessel would have in passing through Fox channel. 
While discussing the matter and questioning them on various points, they made 
their knowledge somewhat clearer by outlining the coasts and the channel on 
paper; they are able to fairly outline coasts and rivers but have no knowledge of 
the compass directions. Several rivers known to them entering into Prince Regent 
inlet afford spawning grounds for salmon, and these fish are plentiful at the 
spawning season of the year. 




"Arctic" by moonlight, January, 1911. 



47 

As Christmas and New Year were approaching, preparations were being made 
to observe them, both in a social and religious manner. Reference has been made 
to the darkness in which the bay and land were enveloped in foggy weather and 
when the clouds were dark and hung low, shutting out the light from the moon 
and stars. It is, however, worthy of mention, that quite a change was brought 
about from this condition on days and nights when no clouds or fog obscured the 
light reflected by the moon. At full moon on a clear night or day it was possible 
to take photographs of the ship, and several were taken by moonlight; these photo- 
graphs developed in a fair way, but, of course, the prints did not shew the objects 
in as clear and as well-defined manner as photographs taken in daylight. 

Nothing of great importance occurred on board the vessel to note, but the 
climatic conditions are worthy of attention at this period. Colder weather had 
set in, but it was calm, permitting the men to go on shore for exercise, and to 
examine the traps that had been set. The thermometer registered thirty-two 
degrees below zero outside the ship, but no discomfort was felt in moving about 
as the men were well clothed in furs and ordinary woolen clothing. The temper- 
ature of the water was 27° Fahrenheit and the snow upon the ice was six inches in 
depth. On Sunday, the 18th, the weather was clear and the thermometer showed 
36° below zero. Some idea of the temperature within the ship may be gathered 
from the fact that the temperature of the Captain's room below deck was 60° 
without a stove, making it comfortable for sleeping quarters. 




Old Eskimo Village. 



As Christmas was approaching an invitation was given Chief Nasso to take 
dinner on board the " Arctic," by way of impressing him with the hospitality that 
the Captain was willing to extend to the native tribes. One remarkable incident 
in connection with some changes in the colour of the sky at the horizon, was the 
purple tint now observed, encouraging the men to look forward to the reappearance 



48 

of the sun, with the advantages of dayUght in exploring the surrounding country 
and making expeditions west and south. At this time some natives with their 
famihes from Fury and Hecla strait and Agoo arrived on board the ship, these na- 
tives are cleanly, and superior in appearance to the natives of Ponds inlet, not 
only in appearance but in general intelligence. From them the Captain received 
important imformation respecting the movements of ice, in the spring of the year 
and summer, in Fury and Hecla strait and Fox channel. To avoid burdening this 
account with too many commonplace details respecting the work that was occu- 
pying the time of the crew, mention is not made of their daily actions, but changes 
in the sky may be noted as they cannot fail to be of interest. The purple colour 
of the belt referred to above had given place to a reddish tinge. Another interesting 
item that might be mentioned, is the fact that the natives who had arrived from 
Fury and Hecla strait were disinclined to talk much, and the ruse of entertaining 
them with the gramophone and other music was adopted to secure descriptions 
of Fury and Hecla strait, Igloolik, Agoo and Hudson bay. One native stated that 
he had met Captain Comer, the well known American whaler and explorer, who had 
made frequent trips to Hudson bay pursuing whaling, securing seal skins, narwhals, 
whales, walrus and polar bears. It is quite difficult for an Eskimo to concentrate 
his thoughts for any length of time upon one subject, but they are inquisitive about 
everything lying about the ship and the machinery in use. 

Among the other disciplinary arrangements on board ship were orders to the 
men to report any dampness in their rooms or bedclothing; this was necessary to 
prevent the crew from contracting severe colds that might end in pneumonia or 
other affections of this nature. Dr. Bolduc made weekly inspections of the quarters 
of officers and men to be certain that the rules were being observed, and so far, all 
on board remained in a good state of health. In addition to this precaution, the 
natives were sent to hunt deer to provide fresh meat for the purpose of changing 
the rations from salt or canned, with a view of preventing scurvy. At times the 
hunters were successful, but not always, and this was much regretted, as the anxiety 
always remained of the dreaded disease if the food was not varied. It is hardly 
necessary to mention the fact that animal food formed the mainstay in the northern 
climate. In addition to the efforts referred to, the question of making the quarters 
comfortable by lighting fires in stoves was considered, for the mercury had fallen 
to 48° below zero; singularly enough, the men did not wish to have the fires started 
because the lamps gave sufficient heat for comfort, and any additional warmth 
would certainly overheat their quarters. 

Christmas day was fine and calm and all preparations for celebrating the day 
were completed. Forty natives from the Eskimo village, including those from Fury 
and Hecla strait and Agoo, went on board the ship and amused and interested 
themselves, in various ways. Some of them attended the religious service which 
formed part of the day's engagements. Although silent and well-behaved, they 
seemed to be endeavouring to comprehend the meaning of the service and its pur- 
pose. Others of the natives roamed about the ship asking questions of those of 
the crew who did not attend the religious service, about each article that they did 
not know the use of nor value. A temporary table of some planed boards was 
arranged at which the natives sat down and food in sufficient quantity and of a 
kind to satisfy their simple tastes was served. They ate their Christmas dinner 
with relish and seemed, in their love for those things that appeal to hungry people 
accustomed to live on raw fish or flesh, to regret that " Christmas comes but once 
a year." 

Some of the attention given the natives in this occasional hospitality had 
in view the object of teaching them that the Canadian Government was interested 
in their welfare, to give them some idea of the friendly spirit and to convey some 
knowledge of the treatment that they might expect, from the employees of the 
Canadian Government in accordance with British traditions, following the practice 
of explorers sent out by the Admiralty. 



49 

The feeling of friendship was reciprocated by the natives in their willingness to 
give as much information as they possibly could, from their knowledge of localities 
in different parts of Baffin island, the waters and lands to the south and west of it. 
Four different maps, sketching Fury and Hecla strait, part of the Gulf of Boothia, 
Fox channel and Repulse bay were drawn in their crude way, but still of a valuable 
kind. The time when the channels were closed by ice and re-openings were quite 
familiar, and they were able to state that all seasons of opening and closing were 
not alike. In some years. Fox channel and Frozen strait are impassible, owing to 
heavy ice remaining from one winter to another in a region where the summer sea- 
son is short. In addition, these channels are receptacles of larger and broader 
bodies of water which empty moving fields of ice into them that are carried back 
and forth by the tide. The special reason for acquiring a knowledge of the general 
conditions of the several localities has already been intimated, namely, a proposed 
return voyage by Prince Regent inlet, Fury and Hecla strait and Fox channel, or 
by Frozen strait into Repulse bay in Hudson bay. This was the intention in 
December, but the whole purpose would depend upon the season and subsequent 
conditions. 




Inside of Tom's igloo, November, 1910. 




50 




On a fine Sunday, March, 1911. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Resuming the account of the occurrences about the ship, chmatic conditions, 
observations and occupation of the crew, the records show that darkness prevailed 
while clouds obscured the moon. It was impossible in the latter week of December 
to engage in any duty requiring daylight even at noon. Print could nowhere be 
read except by means of lamps. The thermometer readings showed a variation 
of from 38 to 48 degrees below zero, but in the sheltered position of the winter 
quarters of the ship no high winds were felt. The ice measured twenty-six inches 
in thickness, snow on top, six inches in depth, the temperature of the water 
twenty-eight degrees, the weather, however, was becoming so cold and the mois- 
ture in the air made it somewhat uncomfortable on deck, although under cover; 
stoves were therefore put up. The natives were making frequent visits to the 
ship and the heat from the stoves permitted the crew of the vessel to make it more 
agreeable for the visitors. 

On the closing day of the year 1910 the Doctor was able to report that all 
of the crew were in a healthy condition. Work was found for them in cutting 
and bringing fresh water ice from the lake to supply water required on board. 
New Year's day was spent by the ship's company in expressions of satisfaction 
in having so far escaped sickness and accidents and in New Year's greetings. 
Visits were made by each member to the Captain's quarters to convey their good 
wishes for the coming year, and religious service was also held on that day. 
Thirty-four Eskimos from the village went on board to wish the Captain a good 
year; they were treated with a simple but substantial New Year's dinner and made 
welcome. Permission was given to the men to dance with the native women 
who had picked up several dances, namely: polkas, Scotch reels and waltzes, from 
whalers; by these means the natives were able to enjoy themselves in a manner 
unusual to them on New Year's day. Part of the music was furnished by a 



51 

native who was able to play an accordeon very well, although his repertoire was 
limited. A Te Deum was sung at the close of the day's proceedings in thankfulness 
for the mercies of Providence. The natives regretfully returned to their homes 
of ice and snow, but before starting showed thankfulness for the hospitality of 
the white man. 

At this time an inventory of the food, coal and other articles of consumption 
was made; the result gave the assurance that if no untoward circumstance should 
happen there would be ample provision to pursue the voyage by the way indicated 
through the Hudson bay and back to Quebec. From the explorations that had 
been made, the men were sanguine that some valuable discoveries of mineral 
deposits were probable. All parties were in readiness to explore the territory 
and arrangements were made to be carried out when daylight should return. 

On the 4th of January no further evidence of the sun's reappearance was 
noticeable except a few minutes of twilight at noon. The snow had become 
hardened on the surface by the intense frost, namely: 40° below zero, but this 
condition was important and enabled the men to look forward to a hard surface 
for conveying, on sleighs, the outfit, provisions, and trappings to the different 
points where surveys and prospecting might take place. All preparatory work, 
consisting of mending seal skin sleeping bags and bags for conveying provisions, 
was being performed, and kept the men engaged. 

On the 6th the hopes of the men were stimulated by a reddish hue in the sky 
at noon, in the south; the weather was still cold, the thermometer registering 47° 
below zero. 

A sudden change took place on the 7th; a strong breeze set in from the S.E. 
accompanied by snow which continued on the 8th; the temperature rose to 25° 
below zero. The gale blew away the snow from the hills into the ravines. The 
wind changed to the N.W. and it became colder, registering 30° below zero on the 
9th. The ice measured twenty-eight inches in thickness in the bay. The dogs 
increased in number by a few litters of pups and it became an interesting matter 
to study the natural instincts of the young animals; it was believed that it would 
add to the comfort of the pups by putting them in boxes containing straw, but 
this was evidently a mistake, as they were uneasy and preferred lying on the bare 
deck and close to spots where pieces of ice had been placed; they thrived under 
these conditions which, of course, were more natural. 

Some of the natives who had visited the ship were about to leave the vicinity, 
and some rations were given them and their wives to assist them on their journey. 
The usual work was carried on, including the drawing of ice to the ship. One of 
the men had sighted some deer when away from the vessel, and on his return related 
his experience, which created great interest on board and caused the desire to 
engage in hunting, but it was evident from the experience of the man referred to 
that the deer were wild and unapproachable. Part of the work on board ship 
consisted of developing some of the photographs taken by Mr. Lavoie during his 
fall trip to Fury and Hecla strait. The films, however, in a number of instances, 
had become damp and not more than half of them could be developed. The 
wind varied considerably, but continued high from the 8th to the 12th, with 
fluctuations of temperature ; the effect of the high wind was to drive the snow from 
exposed places leaving the land bare, but considerable of the snow had gathered 
about the boats that had been placed away from the ship. The weather became 
fine on the 12th, but on the 13th a heavy gale sprung up; the barometer registered 
28.55 and was at this time practically useless; the gale, however, did not last any 
length of time. Some natives went on board and stated that during the gale 
they had been unable to kill any game or catch seals and were without food. They 
were supplied by giving them a few meals on board the ship. The weather at 
this time had become changeable, varying from clear and cold to strong breezes 
accompanied with snow. 

On board ship the usual round of duties had been kept up, including in- 



52 

spection of all the quarters. As a matter of economy, the ashes from the furnace 
had been retained for the purpose of passing them through a sieve; some of the 
men were set at work sifting the ashes and considerable coal, that had passed 
between the bars of the furnace, was recovered and made use of in the stoves set 
up in different parts of the ship. On Sunday, the 15th of January, religious 
service, as usual, was held and was well attended, the flag was hoisted to the 
masthead, and this indicated to the natives, as before stated, that the day was 
Sunday; they were enabled to see the flag owing to the fact that there was a short 
period of daylight. The returning light had a sudden and beneficial effect on the 
spirits of the men, who, during the long period of darkness, had become more or 
less depressed. They were able also to visit the traps which had been set, which 
caused an agreeable change from being cooped up and being compelled to stay close 
to the ship. Nothing, however, resulted from the visit, further than to discover 
that the traps were buried with snow. 




The blacksmith's shop, March, J911. 

Among the observations on board ship was the fact that the vessel had been 
taking some water, but much less than while moving; the water in the forehold was 
skimmed with ice, but it was free from signs of freezing in the main hold. 

The most interesting event referred to at this time was the return of the 
Eskimo who had been sent to Ponds inlet with Second Officer Janes, with the mail 
to be forwarded to the outside world. The native reported that Capt. Adams, 
of the whaler ship " Morning," had received the mail and departed from Ponds 
inlet on the 10th of September, 1910. The further information was obtained 
by the Eskimo, that Capt. Adams had taken seven whales and had left the inlet 
for Dundee. A report was also sent by Officer Janes concerning the sickness of 
some of the natives at Ponds inlet and the death of two. Unfortunately the 
Eskimos had but a scant supply of food and Mr. Janes had been obliged to supply 
provisions to keep some of them alive. He, however, mentioned in his report that 
notwithstanding the deplorable state of the natives, they had not touched the 
caches, which must be taken as a tribute to the honesty of these people. 

Referring again to the incidents on board ship and the surroundings, an 



53 




Cross erected by the crew of the "Arctic," April, 1911. 



igloo was built to protect the young dogs which otherwise would have been 
exposed to the vicious habit of the older ones attacking the young and perhaps 
killing them. On the 18th the weather was still cold, registering 35° below zero. 
The Captain had evidences of the improvident habits and lack of precaution of 
the natives in neglecting to lay in a supply of provisions in their village. It has 
already been stated that the habit was followed by these people of caching the 
animals and fish caught, in the vicinity of the place where they were killed. The 
cold and stormy weather of two weeks had prevented visits to these distant caches^. 
and therefore, the villages were without a sufficient supply of food. In their 
extremity Capt. Bernier furnished them with the necessary supply from the ship's 
stores, thereby preventing suffering and perhaps starvation. He intimates, in. 
his notes, that it was difficult to teach the natives to be more careful against the 
exigencies of cold and storm, that food should be stored where they intend to* 
take up their abode during the period of darkness in these northern regions. 
Not only were the natives suffering from a lack of food but one of them had beemi 
so badly frozen in one foot that immediate attention was necessary, by the doctor,, 
to preserve this extremity. The young man was able, however, to come to the 
ship during several days to have his foot dressed, but it was considered better 
for him to remain on board until he had recovered sufficiently to return to the 
village. 

The Captain had received reports from the village respecting the lack of 
food, and, on this account, visited the natives to ascertain if the report was true. 
Unfortunately, the natives were without food and two women were sick; the 
Doctor was requested to attend these sick people and complied with the request. 

In order to leave some permanent mark of the wintering of the " Arctic " 
in Arctic bay, in the year 1910-11, a cross was erected on East point, in Arctic 
bay; a copper plate was placed on the cross with the inscription " Holy Cross," 
the date when it was erected by the Captain and Officers of the Dominion steamer 
" Arctic," and some particulars respecting the voyage. For the information of 
future voyageurs, explorers or whalers, Captain Bernier has given the following. 



54 

directions for entering Arctic bay. The cross was erected on the east side of 
the bay to guide vessels in deep water. Running out from the west side is a long 
spit, dangerous in navigating the bay. This was first discovered by Captain 
Adams who entered the bay in 1872, in his ship the " Arctic," which ran aground 
on the spit and stuck fast until she was lightened by throwing overboard some 
coal. This spit is shown on the plan of Arctic bay, made by Mr. Lavoie and 
published in this report; by reference to it the depth of water will be seen, as 
indicated by the soundings made by Captain Bernier. 

During the 21st of January, 1911, and a few days immediately following, 
the weather was cold but calm. The men were not encouraged to leave the ship 
nor venture any distance from her, and their exercise, was, therefore, confined to 
walking around the ship for a certain length of time. 




Lake Caron. Where ice was taken. 



Saturday afternoon of each week the men were relieved of the regular round 
of duties and permitted to spend the time in repairing their clothes or some other 
personal matters that they might choose to engage in. Sunday, especially the 
forenoon, was given to religious observances, reading, and only the necessary 
labour about the ship, but in the afternoon, the men were at liberty to enjoy 
themselves by excursions from the ship to visit any points of interest that 
they found within a short radius. They could not take much advantage of this 
hberty, at this period, owing to the condition of the weather and the very short 
period of dayhght. They were, therefore, cautioned not to expose themselves 
in their pursuit of a change from the monotonous life on board ship. Work, of 
course, engaged their attention on other days of the week, the time, therefore, 
did not hang so heavily on their hands. Daylight, however, was increasing and 
some traces of deer were seen, but the animals having passed when it was dark, 
they were not pursued. 



55 




St. George Society's Cairn. 



On the 25th the thermometer registered 40° below zero; some difficulty arose 
in connection with the dogs, especially the young ones, which became benumbed 
and had to be taken on board again. The cold weather prevented the men from 
leaving the ship to engage in ice drawing from a distance, but ice was taken from 
the shore and placed on board to provide fresh water. 

On January the 31st, it was 42° below zero and notwithstanding this extreme 
cold, an effort was made to capture or kill a few deer that had been seen. The 
chase resulted in nothing more than the exercise which it afforded the men. 
February the 1st, 1911, was fine, clear, calm and 35° below zero. The work of 
drawing fresh water ice from the lake was resumed. The Captain and Doctor 
went some distance to a height of land, to observe the rising of the sun again. 
It appeared at twelve o'clock noon but the natives had witnessed the rising of 
the sun above the horizon before the men on the ship. An incident occurred 
worth mentioning, in the arrival of some natives from the village to consult the 
Doctor respecting the illness that had occurred amongst the villagers. Their 
wants in this respect received the attention of the physician. 

The weather became most uncomfortable, being misty and raining, with 
the wind from the northwest, on the 4th of February. The ice measured thirty- 
five inches in thickness, and the temperature of the water was 28°. The leakage 
was becoming very much less, the discovery was made that it was above the six- 
teen foot mark. Work began on drawing ballast to the ship which had been 
piled on the shore, about ten tons of the rock was conveyed by the use of the 
dogs and sledges. 

On the 7th of February, the weather was 48° below zero but none of the 
crew suffered. 

On Friday, the 10th of February, a native from Igloohk arrived on board 
ship and it turned out that he had previously met the Captain when he was at 
Ponds inlet, in 1907. He was able to give some information respecting Fury 
and Hecla strait. It appears that the ice had not been free in 1910, but the native 



56 

intimated that there was some probability of the strait being partially free in 
1911; upon this probability the Captain decided to make the effort to pass through 
the strait towards Hudson bay, when the vessel was released from her position in 
Arctic bay. An attempt was made to pursuade the native to remain on board 
ship and go with her, but he declined. 

From the 10th to the 20th, the weather continued about the same, changing 
only by the appearance of some clouds that doubtless had been formed in some 
section where there was a body of water. An Eskimo from the lower part of 
Admiralty inlet came to the ship but did not appear to have any special reason. 
The carpenter and some men began the work of repairing the old boat, found on. 
Dealy island and that had been left there by Captain Kellet in 1854 — this, 
discovery has already been referred to in this report. A portion of the crew 
was engaged in building (at the western entrance) a large cairn in honour of 
St. George's Society of Ottawa, which presented the Captain with a flag before- 
leaving the capital, to erect in some prominent place. In the cairn was placed a 
record of the request of the Society and the Captain carried out his promise and 
hoisted the flag on top of the cairn. This incident took place on the 24th of 
February, 1911. 




" Arctic" pastime — playing baseball in 20° below zero, March, 1911. 



On the 26th of February, an observation of the height of the sun was taken,, 
the latitude of the place determined as 73° 0' 0" N., longitude 84° 04' 0" W. Three- 
Eskimos were engaged at this date for exploring expeditions in the spring. 

On the 27th some men were sent out to blast some rocks in which some ore^ 
was found and taken on board. The operation of drilling was continued under 
the direction of Mr. Arthur English; there was a large body of this mineralized 
rock, apparently more than could be estimated, about 600 feet above the level 
of the ship and 2,000 yards from her position. There was no difficulty in securing: 
a number of samples of this mineralized rock. Good light enabled the men to^ 
engage in work that they had been prevented from doing during the absence of 



57 




Chasm in St. George Society's cliffs, 1910-]]. 



daylight, Mr. Lavoie began observations from the Observatory that had been 
built in the Fall, and commenced taking angles in Arctic bay, with a view of placing 
them on the large Admiralty chart. 

The first few days of March were fine and on the 4th the temperature had 
risen from 42° to 30° below zero, the ice, however, in the bay had increased to forty 
inches in thickness. 

Another arrival of a native from the bottom of Admiralty inlet occurred at 
this time; he brought the valuable information that seals were abundant in the 
inlet and all danger of scarcity of food for the natives was removed. 

A remarkable cliff stretches along part of the bay and a cairn was built on 
this clifT at a height of 750 feet above the sea level. This cliff has vertical openings 
which reach from the base to the top of the cliff; here large numbers of birds 
gather and hatch their young; even in the extremely cold weather, ravens were 
seen. The cliff is perpendicular, or nearly so, for a distance of four miles and 
consists of red sand stone, and the base is washed by the sea. The tide rises in 
some of the openings for a considerable distance back from the face of the cliff. 

On the 11th of March, Arthur Tremblay, Quartermaster, was sent with 
three Eskimos to cape Crauford for the purpose of building a cairn to contain 
records, his instructions included, among other matters, directions relating to 



58 

general observations of ice movements and the grounding of the ice on different 
shoals, already referred to above; he was instructed also to carefully observe the 
habits of the Eskimos when left to themselves and the methods they employ in 
securing food. The party took with them, from the ship, provisions for a month 
and went ahead with the building of the cairn. The records given by the 
Captain to Mr. Tremblay were to be deposited. 

Work about the vessel was continued, and in order to prevent injury to the 
rudder the ice was cut away about it for some distance from the stern of the 
vessel. This action was taken in order to prevent ice, when it might begin moving, 
from doing injury to the ship and displacing the rudder.' Coal was removed from 
the fore hatch and put in the main bunkers. The weather became more change- 
able than it had previously been, and on the 22nd of March snow was falling, 




Adjusting sextants, preparatory to expeditions, March 14th, 1911. 



occasionally; the velocity of the wind reached forty miles an hour and during 
this high wind all snow was blown from exposed places. Ballast was being put 
on board and after this was done, the crew began the work of putting on board 
again the provisions that could be stowed on top of the ballast. Seventy barrels 
of pork were re-pickled and about 200 boxes of bacon, fish and other stores which 
had been placed on shore were returned to the ship. After this work had been 
finished an inventory of the supplies was made. 

On March the 15th, Mr. Lavoie left the ship, with his party, to return to 
Fury and Hecla strait where he had been in December, 1910. He received 
instructions to trace the shores of the strait, to make surveys where possible and 
to observe the movements of the ice. In the tracing it was the intention to include 
part of the shores of the gulf of Boothia. The course he was instructed to follow 



59 




Leaving for Cape Craufurd, March, 1911. 



was by crossing over Admiralty inlet westward and thence to Prince Regent 
inlet and then along the eastern shore of the latter inlet to cape Kater and cape 
Hallowell. His party was composed of himself and two Eskimos. 

On the 28th of March the sun was sufficiently powerful to melt the snow 
and the weather became much warmer and more pleasant; it was possible in this 
warmer weather to keep a portion of the stores 'tween-decks for present use. Some 
work that was necessary about the erection of the cross, already referred to, was 
completed in the latter days of the month of March and this work was taken part 
in by all hands on board, at intervals, to enable each one of the ship's company 
to say that he had shared in the erection of the cross. 

On the 1st April, natives arrived from Igloolik, Amitook and Agoo, and they 
informed the Captain of meeting with Mr. Lavoie and party. The natives 
included the wives of the men and a widow with her two sons about 8 and 10 
years of age. Much information was obtained from these people about the strait 
of Fury and Hecla and the surrounding country. These natives seem to have 
endured much hardship and travelled with some difficulty, having no sledges. 
They were included in the census which had been kept of the natives that came on 
board and they gave such information as they could respecting Eskimos belonging 
to one place or another. These natives were treated well on board ship on account 
of their destitute circumstances and the distance from their villages. 

Johnston harbour in Arctic bay has already been referred to as a good harbour, 
well-sheltered, with a good depth of water, but in order to get some knowledge 
of the actual depth of the water, soundings were made through the ice. It is 
the opinion of Captain Bernier that this harbour, in the course of time, will be 
utilized, perhaps, by fishermen, or in connection with shipping economic ores or 
shale containing a good percentage of oil. The report of the Department of 
Mines upon the analysis of the shale and mineral specimens, published in this 
report, affords some idea of the value of the kinds of mineral brought back in the 
" Arctic." The reports also of the officers published as appendices give some 
details of the extent of the deposits and these, with the report of the Mines Depart- 



60 • 

merit, are herewith given without any comment. It should be remembered in 
connection with this account of the discovery of minerals, that the " Arctic " 
was in Arctic bay during the winter, an unfavourable time for making explora- 
tions in ravines containing considerable quantities of snow, and although specimens 
were collected, here and there, no correct idea of the extent of the deposits of 
minerals could be obtained. Under more favourable conditions a nearer approxi- 
mation of the extent of the deposits could have been made. 

The extent of Johnston harbour was ascertained to be about seven thousand 
feet long and half a mile wide and the soundings completed about the 6th of 
April show the average depth to be about 18 fathoms. 




Eskimos leaving for their spring hunting, March, 191]. 



In the meantime, a report had been received from second officer Janes, in 
~which he gave some information respecting the natives and their condition during 
the winter at Ponds inlet. They had experienced a very hard winter and the death 
of an old man who had been of much service was mentioned. Mr. Janes also 
reported that Captain Adams, the Dundee whaler, was expected at the station 
-at Ponds inlet in the early spring and the chance would be afforded of issuing to 
him a whaling license. It has been mentioned that part of the duties falling 
upon the Commander of the " Arctic " was the issuing of whaling licenses to 
ships met in the Arctic regions. 

The expectation of the early arrival of Captain Adams at Ponds inlet led 
Captain Bernier to prepare a report of his location, the condition and occupation 
of the crew, to be sent to the Department at Ottawa. 

The weather had moderated so far as cold was concerned and the roof over 
the deck was no longer necessary. The work of removing it began, but whilst 
this was going on, severe storms around the 15th of the month came from the 
S.E. and more snow fell in a short time than had fallen during the whole of the 
winter. The snow for banking the vessel in the early fall was difficult to gather, 



61 




Johnston Harbour, looking N.E. 




Dr. Bolduc visiting sick Eskimos, April, 1911. 



62 

but the heavy fall in the spring of the year made it difficult to keep the vessel's 
deck clear. In some places it measured four feet in depth on the ice; the sun^ 
however, was having the effect of melting the snow and pools of water were to be 
seen in places where the snow had blown off during the storm. 

The natives were passing from the different villages to points where they 
engaged in fishing and hunting, and many of them in their movements paid a 
visit to the "Arctic," some out of curiosity and others to obtain small articles ; during 
this migratory movement Mr. Vanasse secured much information about the 
natives in the villages between Fury and Hecla strait. Prince Regent and Ponds- 
inlets. Most of these natives varied their hunting operations by trapping, killing 
deer and spearing seals. 




Eskimos and members of the crew. 



During the week between the 15th and 20th some blasting was done for 
the purpose of getting out more shale. On the 20th Mr. A. Tremblay who had 
been sent out to cape Crauford to observe the ice movements returned to the 
ship and made his report. At this time the spare sails were taken from the lockers 
to be spread on the upper deck for airing and drying. It was found that the 
cotton sails were damaged by moisture. Captain Bernier, as the result, after a 
careful comparison between the cotton and hemp sails that had been stowed 
away, recommends that hemp sails be taken by Arctic vessels in preference to 
cotton, as the hemp is far less liable to injury from dampness, which cannot be 
prevented, while remaining in enclosed places on board. An incident is related 
concerning the readiness shown to purchase, from the natives, deer, as a change 
from the usual fare of salt meat to fresh; one native took on abord a carcass of 
deer meat and this was greatly appreciated by all hands. The severest snow 
storm of the winter occurred on the 21st and 22nd, in which two feet of snow fell, 
hindering to some extent the work about the ship; when snow that had fallen on 
the deck and around the ship had been removed, men were set at work to cut the 
ice forward and aft. The water had begun to rise upon the ice from the weight 
of the snow in the vicinity of the vessel. 



63 

Mr. Mathe was sent to Moffet bay to bring some specimens of mica that had 
been noticed in the vicinity of the bay, and with him was sent an Eskimo. About 
the 30th of the month the weather was fine and preparations were made to send 
Mr. English to look for minerals near Strathcona sound. He selected two men 
from the crew to accompany him, and this small party used dogs and sleds to 
convey their provisions and necessary outfit. 

During the first week of May, the weather continued fine; the men were 
set at work scraping and caulking the sides of the ship, sails were repaired, and one 
of the boats coppered. The ice, however, about the ship was still over four feet 
in thickness. 

The time had arrived for making some explorations on land, to add to the 
information already obtained, and to begin prospecting for minerals in a more 
vigorous way. The Captain, with fifteen dogs and an Eskimo guide, visited parts 
of Adams sound, taking on the way photographs, and proceeded to the bottom of 
the sound about twenty-one miles from the ship. Here, he left a record in the 
cairn built by second officer Janes in the Fall. On returning to the ship, he found 
the men were engaged in the work of scraping and painting the vessel, under the 
direction of the Chief Officer, Mr. Morin, and this officer was also preparing to go 
to Moffet bay which he had visited on his trip with Mr. Lavoie. 




Drying seal skins, May 1911. 



64 




Reception day for the Eskimos, May, 1911. 



CHAPTER VII. 



On the 11th of May, Mr. Lavoie, who left the ship on the 15th of March to 
proceed to Prince Regent inlet and thence to Fury and Hecla strait, returned. 

Mr. Lavoie reported that he had met with an accident through the explosion 
of a lamp and was slightly injured, causing him to return to the ship a few days 
earlier than he had intended. The weather continued fine and Mr. Morin, the 
First Officer, made a trip to the camp of Mr. Arthur English and his party with 
the intention of ascertaining whether this prospecting party had met with any 
success in the discovery of minerals. The Third Officer, Edward Macdonald, 
was sent to build a large cairn at the place named Royal George and shortly after 
returned and reported that a cairn of eleven feet in height had been built. On 
the 15th of May, Mr. Morin returned to the ship with the information that Mr. 
English and his party were all well. 

The Chief Engineer, Mr. John Koenig, was also sent to Strathcona sound to 
survey it. An observation of the sun was taken for longitude which showed the 
bottom of the bay in Strathcona sound to be in latitude 73° 1' 15" N. longitude 
82° 37' 0" W. The sound is thirty miles in length. Meanwhile the work had 
been proceeding on board ship in preparation for the time when the ice should 
break up. 

The ice was at this time fifty-two inches in thickness and not melting to any 
extent, it certainly did not at the bottom owing to the low temperature of the 
seawater. Preparations were made to cut the vessel out of the harbour where 
she lay. The snow was clear from the top and some ashes were spread which had 
the effect of assisting in the melting of the ice. This method had been adopted in 
Winter harbour in the summer of 1909, when the " Arctic " wintered there, and 
was found effective. On the 23rd May Mr. English and the men that were with 
him got back to the ship with a number of specimens of mineralized rock. 



65 




Eskimos working around ship, May, 1911. 




On the mountains — Strathcona Sound, May, 19H. 

The 24th of May, being Victoria Day, was celebrated by firing two shots 
and hoisting the flag on Royal George mountain. The day was celebrated in 
some other respects in honour of the late Queen, in this far off region. 

An incident occurred at this time, an account of which will serve to show the 
manner in which the natives show their belief in a future existence. One of their 



66 

number became very sick and they notified the Captain that he was dying, the 
Captain and Doctor hastened to the village with the intention of doing their 
utmost to relieve the suffering of the native in his last hours. It was immediately 
seen that nothing could be done either to save or prolong the life of the sick man; 
some medical assistance was given but shortly after, word was brought to the 
ship of the death of the Eskimo. The carpenter of the ship prepared a coffin. The 
natives, however, whether from some superstition or disinclination, would not put 
the body in the coffin prepared and consequently the carpenter had to perform this 
last act of decency in connection with the burial. The natives, some of whom 
had been employed about the ship, would do no work for three days, but at the 
end of the third day expressed a wish for the Captain and crew to take part in 
the funeral. The highest spot in the vicinity of the bay was selected for the place 
of burial ; the reason given for this strange selection was the belief that the departed 




Strathcona Sound. 



native would in future have a good view of wbat might take place all around the 
shores of the bay. The sad rites of Christian burial were performed by engaging 
in prayer and singing. Some of the women of the company of villagers were seen 
weeping, evincing some feeling of sadness and sorrow. After the coffin had been 
placed in the shallow grave each man in the party carried a stone and laid it on 
top of the grave. This was done in a ceremonial way to show the natives the 
sympathy the crew had for them. A large pile of stones was afterwards made by 
the natives to mark the grave and to protect the corpse from wild beasts. Both 
men and women were diffuse in their expression of thankfulness for the part taken 
by the ship's crew in the burial of the dead man. They sincerely believed that 
the departed member of their little community had gone to a world where there 
was an abundance of game. The best conception that the Eskimos have of 
happiness after death is the idea of a region where the hunter may indulge his 
love of hunting where the game is plentiful. 

On June the 9th the crew were all at work, some painting, others working at 
making sails for the life boat, some caulking and others doing work that they 
were best adapted for in preparation for their time for leaving the bay. Fresh 



67 




Iron deposit, N.E. entrance of Strathcona Sound. 



water was also being placed in the boilers; this water was obtained from pools 
on the ice. The time was favourable for making short excursions to different 
places on land for the purpose of ascertaining the natural resources. Some 
articles that had been used either by natives or white men were picked up ; among 
them was a rusty knife and a spear. 

On the 14th of June, the weather was warm and the ice on the bay was be- 
coming porous; there were other evidences of the changes that take place 
on the land, the game was becoming more plentiful in the country east of the 
bay and flocks of geese and ducks were seen moving to their feeding grounds; 
the natives had killed some deer and exchanged them on board the vessel for 
bread and tea. The men had been cutting ice around the ship to free her and to 
prevent her from being carried by the ice when it might move in bodies. A visit 
was made to Victor bay by Captain Bernier, Mr. Mathe and one of the hands 
where some specimens of copper were taken from the rock. The locality where 
the discovery was made is in the north east part of Victor bay. Mr. Arthur 
English kept up prospecting in another direction around the head of Adams 
sound. The ice on the 20th of June was still thick around the ship, measuring 
about four feet, but by the efforts that had been made to clear the ice about 
the propeller and rudder, part of the crew were able to start raising the propellor 
from its position for examination, by means of shears; the royal yards were sent 
aloft and the masts were scraped. 

On June the 24th there was a strong breeze and this was welcomed giving 
hope that the ice would be broken up in the heavy squalls in Admiralty inlet; 
this wind, however, had the effect of bringing fog from the land. A remarkable 
condition in the sheltered bay was the fact that while there was fog on the land 
the sun was shining clearly on the bay, in striking contrast also was the thick fog 
reported by one of the men who had been sent to Holy Cross point, in Admiralty 
inlet. This led to the conclusion that the ice had broken up in the inlet and 
that there must be large bodies of water to create the fog. New evidence of the 



68. 




Head of Strathcona Sound. 




Grave of Taveng Macket-a-we, Arctic Bay. 

change of conditions everywhere about the inlet, was the arrival of some Eskimos 
with fresh salmon; these fish were now beginning their runs in the streams, in 
fact, it had been stated by one of the natives, that some of the runs were already 
over and that the fish were returning to the sea; about two hundred and fifty 
pounds were brought from Moffet bay. 

At the end of the month, the painting had been about completed and an 
inventory was taken of the stores on board and ship's outfit. The "Arctic " was now 



69 




:j££ -• . - i'jf^s-X^ 



Observatory tent, June 14th, 1911. 




Arctic Bay, from Observatory, June, 1911. 



70 




Dried waterfall, Arctic Bay, June, 1911. 



drawing nineteen feet ten inches aft and eighteen feet forward with all the water 
on board that was required. Mr. English returned from the head of Adams 
sound with quite a collection of mineral rock. 

The first of July was observed as a holiday, and the men were allowed the 
liberty of going on shore to enjoy themselves by any means they might find of 
doing so; some of them were given rifies to fire a salute in commemoration of the 
day. July the 5th was squally with falls of dry snow, the ice was becoming some- 
what dangerous around the ship and it was not safe to permit the material on the 
ice belonging to the ship to remain, it was therefore put on board. 

On July the 6th, just one year from the time that the "Arctic " left Quebec, 
there was no possibility of starting on the return voyage, r either was there any 
way of estimating the time when the vessel might leave her winter quarters. On 
this day the variation was established and found to be 96° westerly. The sun's 
shadow at noon was bearing E. | S. The compasses were put in place and 
adjusted. The Chief Engineer reported that the screw well and the other well 
were making water; no doubt this was due to the severe frost and the continuous 
service of the vessel in heavy ice in the Arctic regions. The " Arctic " had made 
six voyages to the Northern regions. It is quite reasonable to suppose that the 
severe test to which she had been put, was weakening her planking. The rudder 
had been cleared of ice and put hard to port and hard to starboard and found that 
it worked satisfactorily ; although severe winds and strong gales from the N.N.W. 
had taken place, yet the ice had not broken up. The anchor which had been 
hoisted when the ice was making in the early fall was let go on the 6th of July in 
eighteen fathoms of water with thirty fathoms of chain. The vessel was cleaned 
up fore and aft and on the 8th of July was about ready for leaving the bay, the 
ice in the bay had melted to about one foot in thickness, the dogs were put on 
board in a large pen, which had been specially prepared. On "the 9th of July the 
natives from the village visited the ship for the last time, and on that day, at 1 
p.m., the ship broke from the ice and she was given sixty fathoms of chain; the 
ice was also freed from the shore and w^as moving with the wind then blowing a 
strong breeze from the north. 



71 




Tom, the Interpreter. 



/ 



4i 








t^'-^- 





A"^!n^'5?5 







Arctic Bay, Massan and near relatives, June 23rd, 191]. 



72 




Where mineral specimens were found, June, 1911. 



On the 10th the native Omming and his son arrived from a point thirty miles 
distant from the ship, and brought with them 450 lbs. of fresh salmon; beside this 
quantity of fish they left considerable at a cache six miles from the ship. The 
" Arctic " was ready for sailing at any moment. The hawsers and ice anchors 
were put away. Mr. Arthur English, prospector, had returned to the ship and 
reported that the ice in Adams sound had not broken, this fact proved that it 
remained longer in the sound than in Arctic bay. This could not be attributed 
to the weather, as it had been warm during the first two weeks of July. 

In making comparison between the different localities for wintering. Captain. 
Bernier stated that English bay in Strathcona sound is an excellent place as it 
opens earlier in the season than Adams sound and Arctic bay; it is also nearer 
Lancaster sound. 

The elevation which had been named St. George Society mountain afforded 
a good view of part of Admiralty inlet and Adams sound, and it was visited by the 
Captain, who had taken with him a native in order that he might ascertain if 
Admiralty inlet was yet navigable, but he found that no water was visible. This 
tedious disappearing of the ice caused considerable impatience, as the vessel 
was ready to leave Arctic bay. One of the final acts in the overhauling of the vessel 
was the placing of a new propeller shaft and shipping the propeller. The vessel, 
therefore, was all ready to proceed on the homeward voyage on the 19th of July, 
but not even a crack could be seen in the ice in Admiralty inlet when movements 
of the ice backward and forward might have been expected. The bay, however, 
was sufficiently open to permit the ship, under steam, to move from her anchorage 
towards Adams sound, where an opening had been noticed at the entrance of the 
sound. On the 20th an effort was made to leave the bay but the vessel made 
only five miles; fires were banked for a short while, awaiting the rise of the tide 
with the intention of making an effort to leave the bay. A drawback, however, 
was lack of power of the engine, which is an auxiliary in the movements of the 
vessel, and not even as effective as it might be if the " Arctic " had forced 
draft. 



73 




The bow of the " Aratic, " June. 1911. 




Cape Rotunda, Adams Sound, 1910-11. 



74 




Adams Sound. 



On the 21st, the ice anchors were let go and some progress was made into 
Admiralty inlet. Some open leads were found ahead; with the aid of the sails, 
headway was made. By the use of steam, with the sails, and drifting with the 
•ebb tide, some distance was made northward, but when the vessel arrived off 
Strathcona sound it was found that the ice made it impossible to proceed. On 
July the 23rd, however, there was an appearance of a lead to the westward. The 
anchorage was let go from the ice and the rest of the way was made across 
Admiralty inlet, when the vessel was again anchored to the ice about three miles 
from the west shore; soundings were made with the result of finding that the depth 
■of the water was three hundred and fifty fathoms, mud bottom. On July the 
24th fog had set in and no movement could be made ahead, the vessel was sur- 
Tounded by ice and drifting to the south. At this time quite a number of nar- 
whals were seen and two natives went out upon the ice to hunt these narwhals, 
b)ut did not kill any. The " Arctic " remained beset by ice until about twelve 
o'clock noon when steam was got up, but very little progress was made, in fact 
the strong wind from the N.E. pressed the ice upon the vessel and raised her about 
one foot forward; the rising of the vessel seemed to relieve the pressure while 
1,he ice passed underneath. The ice continued to run towards the south, caused 
' by a strong breeze from the north and carried the vessel back abreast of Strathcona 
Sound. Narwhals were again seen and the natives went on the ice again and 
managed to kill one, which weighed one thousand five hundred pounds, making five 
barrels of meat and blubber for the dogs. The ice continued to force the vessel 
laackwards until on the 26th, about noon, she was abreast of Adams sound, in 
latitude 73° 1' 45," four and one-half miles from the west shore. The ice was at 
ihis time packing only a few yards from the ship; it continued in this condition 
^nd came so close upon the vessel that no soundings could be taken. The wind 
-diminished, the ice slackened, the Engineer got up steam on the 29th and an 
.attempt was made to force the 'Arctic" through the ice with the aid of boat hooks, 
pushing the ice aside 



75 

The vessel got clear of the ice and a course was made for Edwin bay and cape 
Charles Yorke. Outside of the cape, there is a shoal on which the ice was aground. 
It may here be stated, that ice remains most of the year, fortunately, warning; 
vessels to give it a berth to prevent grounding on the shoal. After rounding the 
shoal, Baillarge inlet was passed; this inlet or bay is about five miles in depth and 
two miles wide at the entrance. The entrance may be known by the south head 
which is perpendicular and the top shaped like a horse's back. The land surround- 
ing the bay is high. Edwin inlet is also a good deep bay with two arms at the north 
entrance and a bold head somewhat terraced; the mouth of this bay is wider than. 
Baillarge; it is a good harbour, where fresh water can be procured from running, 
brooks which empty into the bay. 



1 


^fTr- 


^1 


J^^^3B-\ ' • * " , aiiJiiit ij|L|i|| 







Adams Sound, 1910-1]. 



The course was shaped towards Adams island; while coasting along, a number 
of icebergs aground, were seen, when the fog lifted or disappeared. It was noticed, 
in places, that the water was very much discoloured, although no bottom could 
be found at one hundred and sixty-six fathoms. Off Adams island, a ledge runs 
at the southwest end but the water is bold at the northeast side. The "Arctic"' 
passed WoUaston islands ; a good view of the middle island was obtained, but, as 
a general thing, many parts of the coast were not seen owing to the fog. 

On July the 30th, at 8 p.m., the vessel was off cape Hay; Navy Board inlet 
was full of ice at this time. It was regretted that distinct views could not be 
obtained of the mountains, which are, in some places, five thousand feet high along 
the coast that had just been passed. 

The weather cleared on the 31st, enabling the vessel to go at full speed and 
easily avoid some icebergs and ice floes. During the time just described there 
was much difficulty in navigating, causing the Captain and officers to be on the 
alert day and night. At noon of the 31st, the "Arctic" was off cape Byam-Martin 
and from this point the course was shaped for Ponds inlet, the east entrance of 
which was sighted in the early part of the afternono, during an interval of clear 
weather. 



70 




•*» ^-.-.- 






jr^r^- '"ir'^*iT:^2;^F??:r^ 



Adams Sound, May, 1911, 



On the 1st August in the midst of a thick fog, the "Arctic" was made fast 
to the ice; soundings shewed a depth of two hundred and fifty fathoms. The Unes 
were cast off and the vessel moved to the ice off cape Graham-Moore but no 
opening towards the shore could be seen; whilst remaining in the ice the tanks 
were filled with fresh water from pools on top of the ice. The vessel was now 
both ice and fog bound and could make no progress. The crew was employed at 
this time in fishing for halibut which Mr. Janes reported were to be caught in 
this vicinity, but there was no success, probably from the fact that the water 
was too deep, being over one hundred fathoms in depth. Some progress from this 
point of anchorage was again made under steam and sail, but the ice obstructed 
the progress of the vessel to such an extent that it was decided to make fast to the 
ice off Button point, and to get the mail which had been brought by Captain Adams. 
For this purpose two men with five dogs were sent ashore. 

On August the 4th the vessel was started again and shortly after arrived at 
Button point. The land in the vicinity was summer-like as the grass had made 
some progress in growth. Here, near Button point, a waterfall was observed 
extending along a distance of one thousand feet from the shore, and falling, alto- 
gether, about five hundred feet. Slow progress was made towards Albert harbour 
and on the 6th of August, at 10 a.m., the ship was anchored in Albert harbour. 
Immediately after the arrival of the "Arctic" in the harbour, Second Officer Janes, 
who had left the ship in Arctic bay with an exploring party, on the 12th of December, 
1910, came on board. 

The steam launch and some canoes were made ready to convey Mr. Lavoie 
and Mr. Morin to Milne inlet, where it was intended that they should join the ves- 
sel; with them, Mr. English and Mr. Mathe were sent to do some prospecting 
The Captain with the Chief Engineer and a couple of men, formed another expedi- 
tion to visit a locality three miles beyond Salmon river, where it had been reported 
some signs of coal had been noticed by Second Officer Janes, pieces of which had been 
procured by him. Indications of coal were noticed in a number of places. The 
Captain's party went beyond Salmon river, eight or ten miles, and then returned to 



77 

the river and caught about one hundred salmon with a net; the fish were in good 
condition. The Captain remarks that on this trip he noticed several deposits of 
lignite coal, from which several bags were shovelled up, to be conveyed to the vessel. 
He is of the opinion that an abundance of this lignite can be obtained. Some of it 
was burned and made use of for cooking; in this test there was very little ash 
left. 

On returning to the ship the crew was set at work to land stores for the Depot 
in Albert harbour. The Captain, after landing the stores, directed the Purser to 
«nter in the books the quantity that had been placed at the Depot. When this 
work had been completed. Captain Bernier visited the station to settle everything 
that required attention and also, to see the natives. 

On August the 10th another visit was made to Salmon river to procure more 
salmon for the ship's use. A shed was built on the shore of the river. On the 13th 
of August, the vessel got under way for Milne inlet and soon after arrived there. A 
trip was made up a large river and the launch that had left Albert harbour with the 
First Officer, Mr. Morin, arrived at the vessel. Milne inlet was left and the vessel 
passed to the westward to the crossing taken by the natives, when going to Moffet 
bay in Admiralty inlet. It will be perceived, in this description, that the Arctic was 
proceeding westward again after her arrival and departed from Albert harbour. 

Navy Board inlet was entered on the 15th of August and the vessel anchored 
six miles south of Canada point, opposite a valley where glaciers form. Boats were 
manned and sent ashore to examine some coal deposits, which had been observed 
by Second Officer Janes, while on his way from Arctic bay to Ponds inlet on the 
journey already referred to. 

A trip was made up on the north side of a river, and the men arrived at an eleva- 
tion of 1,750 feet. Here there were some very striking evidences of former vegetation. 
There was deep soil and part of an old tree, lying horizontally, was found embedded 
in the soil. The wood was in a good state of preservation, enabling the men to cut 
away portions of the tree to convey to Ottawa to be placed in the Museum. Coal 
was also discovered and a half bag was gathered up. In addition to these natural 
specimens, bone of narwhal was found at an elevation of 1,250 feet. This, however, 
may have been carried to the place where it was found by animals many years ago 
and was no evidence of the land having been under water since the glacial period. 
The bone was very porous showing that it had lain in the place where it was found 
for a very long period of time. In connection with the coal deposits, it may be here 
stated that a number of places contained specimens of coal which, so far as the men 
€ould judge, were deposits and not float that had been carried by some movement of 
ice and water. 

The vessel was got underway again and in leaving Navy Board inlet, passed 
close to Adams island on the west side of the entrance, around which the water was 
bold. The course was shaped for cape Crauford, at the entrance of Admiralty in- 
let, and on the 17th August the vessel had reached Port Bowen in Prince Regent 
inlet. Sir William E. Parry v^ntered outside of the harbour in 1824 but during 
that year lost his vessel the " Fury," in attempting to sail down the inlet. As the 
^'Arctic" proceeded south, she passed Port Neill, a snug little harbour which may 
be used by vessels for making winter quarrters. The place is bleak and does not 
afford any sustenance for animals, consequently no game can be found there. The 
desolate character of the surrounding country is due to the proximity of the strait 
which causes it to be exposed to all northerly winds, which keep the temperature 
low. Sherer peak in the vicinity is a prominent landmark and is easily recognized. 
As the vessel proceeded she passed within three miles of cape Kaye, the sounding 
indicated twenty fathoms of water. It was impossible to see the coast as the ship 
advanced into the inlet, on account of the almost continuous foggy weather, there- 
fore, a more detailed description of the coast line cannot be given. It may, however, 
be stated that the water is very shallow along the east side of the inlet, making it 
necessary to keep the lead going nearly all the time. 



78 

As cape Kater was approached it was seen that heavy bodies of old ice were 
blocking the way, and there was no prospect of passing down to Fury and Hecla 
strait. A view from the mast head did not give any encouragement for making an 
attempt farther south. The Captain then concluded that any further attempt to 
proceed would result in useless efforts to pass through the heavy bodies of ice seen 
on all sides. The ice was old, formed during several winters and, therefore, impas- 
sable. Some of it was agroun along the shallow parts of the coast. After a 
consultation with the officers, the Captain decided that the risk would be too great 
in making a passage and came to the conclusion to abandon the attempt to pass 
down Fury and Hecla strait and Fox channel into Hudson bay. 

Mr. I.avoie, who had spent some time on the shores of Fury and Hecla strait 
and Boothia gulf, was requested by the Captain to give his opinion in regard to the 
improbability of a passage in safety through the waters mentioned. This report 
is here given. 

Prince Regent Inlet, 

August 19th, 1911. 

To Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander C. G. S. " Arctic." 

Dear Sir, "~- 

In compliance with your request to express my opinion in regard to continuing 
the voyage in Prince Regent inlet from Bernier bay towards the south, and of the 
advisability of turning back from last named bay, instead of waiting for the break- 
ing up of the ice bodies, I beg to say, on the 17th instant when we came in contact 
with the pan, the strait was absolutely impassable, the year ice uniting the old 
floes and pressures in one solid mass extending from the east to the west shore. 
Although not an expert in ice navigation, judging by the appearance of the ice 
fields and the details of their formation and thickness as gathered during my 
expedition of March- April-May you would have had to wait at least ten (10) days 
before the breaking up. The time at your disposal to finish your work this fall 
being limited you were perfectly right and wise in not attempting to go through. 

Yours truly, 

(Sgd.) J. T. E. Lavoie, C.E. 

On the 18th of August, 1911, the vessel's head was turned north and with the 
advantage of a S. S. E. wind she passed out of the heavy ice, and was soon off cape 
Sherer. At this time the compasses would not work, but by steering by the land 
and using the lead, the " Arctic " arrived off cape York and out of Prince Regent 
inlet on the 19th. In passing Navy Board inlet, sailing eastward, some icebergs 
were seen. In the fog, some icebergs aground assured the Captain of his position. 
It was well known to him from past observations that icebergs ground in the locality 
off which he was passing. Towards evening of the 19th the weather cleared up and 
a small bay was observed which would afford good shelter for a vessel. 

On the morning of the 20th it was seen that the " Arctic " was off the low land 
on the most southwesterly point of Bylot island. The water is very shallow and 
ships should give the place a "wide berth. The course was laid towards Ponds inlet 
to land the natives that remained on board the vessel and some letters that were to 
be forwarded by a whaler to the Department at Ottawa, also instructions to the 
first whaling Captain that should arrive at the whaling station at Ponds inlet. 

The land on the north side of Baffin island is very hilly, and along the coast there 
are some indentations, or bays, that whalers sometimes visit. From the valleys 
into the bays and into Ponds inlet, glaciers discharge regularly. The coast is generally 




Iceberg, Navy Board, Inlet, August, 1911. 



lined with icebergs of different sizes, ranging from seventy-five to three hundred 
feet in height. The water is deep and icebergs ground only when near the shore. 
Ice floes and pans were occasionally seen in passing; from some of these floes fresh 
water was obtained to fill the tanks and boilers. It might be imagined at about the 
20th of August Ponds inlet would be pretty well free of ice, but this was not the case 
for the navigation was intricate and caused a good deal of anxiety. The latitude of 
the ship at noon, was 71° 59' N., longitude, 72° 40' W. about eight miles off the land 
and in about one hundred fathoms of water. It may be noted that the year was one 
showing an unusual amount of ice around the coasts. It was necessary to use 
ropes to moor the vessel to ice anchors, to prevent her from getting into dangerous 
places and also to save her from collisions with icebergs. Occasionally, the ice 
parted enough to allow the vessel to go at half speed and sometimes full speed, but 
the fog was so heavy, and the danger so great, that the speed of the vessel had to be 
checked. 

On the 24th of August, the " Arctic " passed " Agnes' Monument " at a distance 
of about sixteen miles off shore. The vessel was then steered for cape Kater (east 
coast Baffin island) , a little above the 69th parallel. On the 25th the fog cleared, 
and a Newfoundland vessel fast to an ice floe, bound north was spoken, but being 
unable to get alongside owing to the fact that the vessel was going in one direction 
and the "Arctic" another, the attempt to get on board, failed. The flag of the 
" Arctic " was raised and the whistle blown but the vessel which had got under 
way, paid no attention to the signals. The speed of the " Arctic " was not 
sufficient to overhaul her and the effort to follow was abandoned. Photographs 
and a description of the vessel will enable the Department to identify her and 
make enquiries in respect to the disregard of the provisions of the Fisheries Act, 
that require all vessels to secure a license for fishing around the coasts of 
Baffin island. 

Difficulty in navigating along the coast was still experienced from field ice. 
Although the vessel was in latitude 67° 52' N. and longitude 64° 20' W., she was often 
compelled to stop. 



80 

On the 27th the " Arctic " was working towards cape Dyer but during this 
'day, so much ice was pressing on the shore and for some miles off, that it was impos- 
sible to make headway. On the 28th, however, steam was got up and some pro- 
gress was made towards cape Searle, and whilst off cape Durham some schooners 
in shore were seen endeavouring to get out from the land. 

All along the coast thick fog had enveloped the vessel down to the narrowest 
part of Davis strait, occasionally lifting and allowing the Captain to recognize 
prominent head lands and points. At noon of the 29th the vessel reached, by ac- 
count, latitude 65° 15' N., longitude 60° 50' W., the soundings varying from one 
hundred and forty-three to one hundred and twelve fathoms. 

On August the 31st steering N.W. to N.N.W. by the compass (reversed) 
Leopold island was seen bearing ahead six miles and Cobourg island, bearing N.W. 
by N. by compass, five miles. Many icebergs were seen as the vessel passed Cobourg 
island, two miles off. The course was shaped for Kekerten in Cumberland gulf; 
during the passage in from Cobourg island icebergs were seen, but no field ice. 
This is a promising indication of an open fall in Hudson strait, around the Labrador 
coast and the gulf of St. Lawrence. 

The station at Kekerten was reached on the 2nd of September and the Captain 
went ashore by boat. He attended to business relating to Fishery licenses and Mr. 
Lavoie, who had been appointed before leaving Quebec a Custom's Officer, attended 
to the collection of duty on articles that had been landed at this station. When 
this business had been completed the vessel set sail for Blacklead island, another 
station and Eskimo settlement near the entrance of the gulf. 

Some books were distributed at this place which had been given to the Captain 
by the Rev. Dr. Peck to distribute among the natives. Captain Bernier testifies 
to the noble and valuable work done by Dr. Peck in enlightening the people and 
teaching them to read. They are not only able to read, but to write letters to 
their friends and relatives who are dwelling at some distance from them. The natives 
at Blacklead are not only more intelligent than those seen at Ponds inlet, but are of 
a finer physique. The work of Dr. Peck, who now resides in Toronto, has been 
taken up by Dr. Grenfell. The energy and interest shown by this gentleman in 




Rev. Mr. Greenshield, Missionary Blacklead Island, August, 1911. 



81 

Labrador is well known the world over, and his good work embraces the education 
and training of natives at Blacklead. One of the schools was visited and the in- 
telligence and neatness shown in the arrangements and by the children, was very 
striking, giving the strongest proof of the elevating character of the instruction 
given. At Blacklead similar business in relation to whaling licenses was attended 
to and Custom's duty, as at Kekerten. 

When this work had received the necessary attention, the "Arctic" was got 
under way for Niantilik harbour, not far from Blacklead island, in Cumberland 
gulf, and on the west side, in order to take in fresh water for use on the ship and in the 
boilers. Mr. A. English, of the ship, landed at this place to examine some mica 
deposits reported to have been discovered. In his opinion the mica deposits 
would not pay to work, as they are apparently limited, the mica itself being of poor 
quality. 

The voyage was resumed south, some unnamed islands, described as beautiful, 
owing to the shape of the rock, between Kokalouie and cape Murchison, were named 
the " Lemieux Archipelago," after the Honourable Rodolphe Lemieux, who was 
Postmaster General of Canada when the " Arctic " left Quebec. Cape Murchison 
w^as reached on the afternoon of the 4th of September; from there the course was 
shaped to cape Haven. At cape Haven Mr. Forsyth Grant has a Station for trad- 
ing with the natives. The vessel stopped at this station for a short while. 

The voyage was resumed on the 5th and a passage made along the islands, 
keeping clear of the reefs, which are somewhat numerous. The weather in the 
meantime was hazy and snow had fallen. Owing to these circumstances, and no 
sign of life on shore, no landing was made. The information repsecting the locality 
is meagre. There are some harbours around this coast, and more information 
respecting them is desirable, but under all the circumstances it was considered advis- 
able to proceed on the voyage. 

Hall island was passed, and it was noticed that large icebergs from the Arctic sea 
surrounded the island. The course was now shaped for Resolution island. The 
waters in this part of the coast are dangerous for vessels, two small low islands, not 
on the chart, were noticed in passing. It should also be remembered that the lead 
is not of very much use in approaching the islands and coast, as the sea is deep. 

In the early morning of the 6th of September, the vessel was passing Button 
islands on the south side of Hudson strait; from there the vessel ran for Port 
IBurwell for the purpose of taking in ballast. The land was made off Port Burwell 
in a whole gale, but the harbour was reached and the vessel anchored in eleven 
fathoms in the middle of the harbour. When going north some stores had been 
left at Port Burwell in case that they might be required by vessels meeting with 
misfortune. These were found untouched, but being on the upper floor of the 
Moravian church, the person in charge requested the Captain to have them 
•cached in another place. This matter was l^eft for the attention of the Department, 
the captain recommending that the stores be removed from the church and placed in 
a cache for the use of vessels, in cases of necessity. 

The matter of collecting dues for Fishery licenses and Customs duties was at- 
tended to by the Captain and Mr. Lavoie as at the other stations above mentioned. 
On September the 7th fresh water and ballast were taken on board. While at Port 
Burwell the Captain visited Captain Jackson, of the " Harmony," a St. John's, New- 
foundland, vessel, to enquire if any mail matter for the "Arctic " had been brought. 
During this time the wind was blowing strong and the second anchor was let go. 

On the 12th, ballast and water hkving been taken on board, and all matters 
Tequiring attention having been attended to, the anchor was hove up and the 
■" Arctic " left Port Burwell to pass through Gray strait, between Button islands 
-and the north end of Labrador. When making passage through the weather was 
dear enough to permit the Officers to count the Button islands; the number is 
iihirty-seven, but this may not include all of the islands, or reefs which appear as 
islands at low water, in the distance. The vessel was not, of course, close enough 



82 

to enable the crew to see all the islands on the north side of them. After cape 
Chidley had been passed, some small islands were seen not marked on the chart. 
It was the opinion of Captain Bernier that this portion of the Labrador coast should 
be surveyed for the benefit of the vessels that may pass through Gray strait in enter- 
ing Hudson strait. 

At noon of the 13th the vessel was in latitude 58° 26' N., longitude 59° 40' W., 
having made one hundred and fifty-four miles in twenty-four hours. On the 14th 
the vessel was keeping the same course and on the 15th, about noon, Round island 
was sighted, bearing S.W. ^ S., about seventy miles away. A head sea had set in 
and with the fore and aft sails set, some tacking was done towards the land, the ves- 
sel making but one to two knots an hour. During the 16th and 17th the course for 
Belle Isle was taken, and at midnight the vessel was well up to Belle Isle strait with 
the Northern light of Belle Isle, bearing W.S.W. On the 18th, the strait was 
entered and a course taken along the north side towards Chateau bay. 

At noon of the 18th the vessel arrived off point Amour and reported to the 
Department by telegraph. Several well known points in the gulf were passed. 
The " Arctic " steered for the middle of the strait between Anticosti and the north 
shore of Quebec. As the vessel was passing up the gulf some painting was done, 
and other work on board the ship, to make her look tidy. Considering the fact 
that the vessel had made a voyage to Melville island and back she looked remarkably 
well on her return to the mouth of St. Lawrence river. It was noticed, as the im- 
portant lights were sighted and passed at night in the gulf, that these lights had 
been greatly improved. 

On the 22nd of September, pointe-des-Monts was passed and a course steered 
to pass outside Metis light. At noon a pilot was taken on board at Father point. 
The brother of the Captain boarded the vessel with some letters and newspapers 
addressed to each of the ship's company. The " Arctic " came to anchor at Pilgrims, 
as she was making no way against the ebbing tide without full steam. On the 24th 
the vessel passed Grosse lie and on the 25th, fifteen minutes after twelve, midnight, 
the anchor was dropped abreast of Allan's wharf in the harbour of Quebec; all 
hands well after a fifteen months' cruise. 

The Captain received instructions to discharge the crew, and a month later 
directions were sent to land the stores and other material. Specimens of mineral, 
shale and coal intended to be analyzed and tested were shipped to Ottawa, also 
the articles to be placed in the Museum. 

Immediately after these operations were completed. Captain Bernier proceeded 
to Ottawa with his logbook and handed it and the reports of the officers that 
accompanied him, to the Department. 

In summing up this report in a general way, it may be stated that the vessel 
sailed during the voyage about 10,000 miles and returned without any damage 
beyond the ordinary wear and tear incident to voyages of the same nature in the 
far northern waters. The "Arctic" is not what may be termed an icebreaker, as 
she is not equipped with powerful engines, being practically a sailing vessel with an 
auxiliary engine of no great power, but she was constructed specially for voyages in 
the Arctic regions, of substantial materials. She is a very handy vessel in ice and 
withstood the pressure in ice fields, running ice, and occasionally, contact with heavy 
bodies of ice which an ordinary vessel could not withstand; but having made four 
voyages of the same kind since her purchase by the Department, under all conditions 
that prevail in northern regions, it is not surprising that she has shown signs of the 
effect of the great pressure of immense bodies of ice. The vessel is a good sea boat 
and easily worked at sea or in ice. 

The men did not suffer from want of proper accommodation and were as com- 
fortable as could be expected in the trying weather to which they were exposed. 
The Captain gave full credit to all the officers and men for the manner in which 
they performed their duties, and did not record in his log book anything of import- 
ance respecting any violation of discipline nor disobedience to orders. He reported 



83 

that during the surveying, exploring, and other expeditions from the vessel in Arctic 
bay and Ponds inlet, the men comprising the parties sent out, covered a distance of 
four thousand miles on foot and with dog sleds. It was the only voyage of the four 
in which an adequate number of dogs had been used for exploring purposes. 

The northwest passage was not accomplished, as originally intended. That 
part of the report referring to the attempt to do so contains his reasons for the 
failure in this respect. In the first place, the season was most unfavourable, owing 
to the great obstacles from heavy ice in McClure strait, at the entrance of the Polar 
sea, making it impossible, in his opinion, to pass westward. He has furnished a 
report from the Second Officer, endorsing this opinion and in returning when in- 
tending to proceed through Prince Regent inlet, Fury and Hecla strait. Fox channel 
and Hudson bay, obtained a similar report from Mr. Lavoie, in which it is claimed 
that the vessel was blocked by the immense bodies of heavy ice that filled the chan- 
nels mentioned. 

With a view of making the best of his time and opportunity. Captain Bernier 
concluded to pass the winter in Admiralty inlet, for the purpose of making some 
observations, tracings and explorations, from a convenient quarter. It had been 
maintained by him that part of the inlet had not been surveyed, nor had Fury and 
Hecla strait to the south, and part of Boothia gulf been correctly outlined. Part 
of Eclipse sound, north of Baffin island also remained unsurveyed. He considered 
the time of the officers on board, and part of the crew, might well be occupied in 
tracing the coasts of these waters and prospecting for minerals. 

Mr. Lavoie, a land surveyor, was entrusted with the survey, with the instrument 
in his possession at Fury and Hecla strait, part of the coast of the gulf of Boothia, 
and in Eclipse sound. He has made reports on his work which form appendices to 
this report. The three maps prepared by Mr. Lavoie are also published, showing 
that he has taken great pains in delineating the localities formerly unsurveyed. The 
Department publishes these maps without assuming any responsibility as to their 
accuracy of the hydrographic lines of the bodies of water included. The soundings, 
it may be assumed, are accurate. 

Mr. Arthur English was employed prospecting as the principal part of his duties; 
his report is also published as an appendix to this report in an abridged form. Mr. 
English had some previous knowledge of mineralogy, and his report is useful in in- 
dicating the localities where specimens of ore, quartz, shale and mineral bearing 
rocks were found. 

The report of Mr. Morin, first r^ate, includes an account of his journey with Mr. 
Lavoie when he accompained that officer part of the way to Fary and Hecla strait. 
This officer, owing to the importance of his position, remained on board, except 
when his services were required to accompany, as navigator, the surveyor to the places 
where the work of the latter was performed. 

The report of second officer Robert Janes is also published herein, in an 
abridged form, and contains the main events that happened during his trips of 
exploration and journies from the ship. This report alludes to some discoveries 
of lignite coal found in place. 

Mr. J. E. Mathe was engaged, at times, in searching for mineral deposits and 
relates the result of his observations. 

Alfred Tremblay, one of the quartermasters, reported upon his trip to cape 
Crauford to build a cairn and deposit records. This report is also an appendix. 

The report of the Mines Department in Ottawa contains the result of the 
examination and analysis of the mineral and other specimens. It is also published as 
an appendix. This report, based on a scientific test of the specimens submitted by 
the Department of Marine and Fisheries, is official and may be relied upon in deter- 
mining the value of the mineral specimens secured by the exploring parties of the 
''Arctic." 

The other service performed by Captain Bernier consisted of patrol work in 
connection with the fishery regulations pertaining to whaling in the northern waters 



84 

of the Dominion, and the issuing of whahng hcenses to vessels engaged in the in- 
dustry. Two vessels were boarded and notices were left at whaling stations 
calling attention to the regulations requiring whaling vessels to obtain licenses, and 
requesting owners and Captains to recognize the authority of the Department at 
Ottawa, and the jurisdiction of the Government over territorial waters in the north- 
ern regions of the continent. 

Interesting items recorded by the Captain of the " Arctic," are the references to 
fishing for salmon by the men of the "Arctic" and their successful operations at 
Salmon river, which empties into Eclipse sound, at the junction of Ponds inlet, at 
the northern end of Baffin island. The vessel was also supplied with fresh salmon 
by the natives when at Arctic bay, in Admiralty inlet. The salmon are not large 
but are of excellent quality for the table when fresh, and can be preserved for use 
by freezing. The abundance in the streams, during spawning season, affords a very 
large supply of food to the natives who preserve them by a process of drying for 
future use. Seals and narwhals were also reported abundant, on breaking up of 
the ice in the spring, by some of the Officers on their return to the vessel from their 
excursions to a distance, and by Eskimos when visiting the ship. 

The Meteorological report was prepared by Mr, Lavoie, who made records daily 
of the thermometer and barometer. This report appears as an appendix. The Ob- 
servations will be valued for the information they contain of the temperature of a 
climate as cold as Winter harbour, in Melville island, and Albert harbour, in I^nds 
inlet, where the "Arctic" wintered in 1908-9 and 1906-7 respectively, but high 
winds prevalent in Winter and Albert harbours were not experienced in Arctic bay. 
It may be concluded from this that the winter in Arctic bay is not so severe as at 
the other two harbours. 

A census of the Eskimos at the localities visited by the " Arctic," a record of 
the number of miles travelled by the exploring and surveying parties and a list of 
the specimens delivered to the Mines Department complete the appendices. 



PL /I A/ 

Qrchc Bav , 
Bafftn /stand. 




£^ieifet tt'ony in feet 

SCULE 



fidams Sound 



85 



APPENDIX NO. I. 

SummatrY of Report of Mr. Lavoie on his First Trip to Prince Regent Inlet. 

According to the instructions given by Captain Bernier on the 8th October, 
1910, to survey Prince Regent inlet from Cape Hallowell to cape Kater, Mr. Lavoie 
left on the 10th with a party of four persons, Mr. Mathe, geologist, and three natives, 
one of whom was but a child, two sleds and 22 dogs. 

Mr. Morin, with a native, was to accompany them as far as Shinik islands, 
surveying the south end of Admiralty inlet, which he did. 

Mr. Lavoie had but few incidents of note to relate of the first part of the trip ; 
the ice, not being thoroughly fast and set when he left the ship, was responsible for 
an immersion the day of his departure. This happened on the south coast of 
Adams sound. A return was made to the ship for dry clothing and a fresh start 
made the day following. 

At point Cunningham, the day following, to prevent a like accident, the ice 
being very bad, great care was taken and the sleds were kept away one from the 
other. 

Mr. Lavoie decided, and the rule was kept throughout the journey, that two 
meals a day only would be partaken of, breakfast and supper. The noon lunch, 
eaten while on the march, consisted of freshly killed seals' liver, when available, 
otherwise raw meat of any sort. 

Levasseur bay, on the east side of Admiralty inlet, turned out to be but a deep 
canyon between the steep mountains that form the eastern shore. On this day, the 
13th, 26 miles were covered. A stop was made on the following day at MofTet bay 
to take photographs of an immense iceberg and later on of two islands in the Yeaman 
group, not previously noted on the chart, of which Mr. Morin also took notes to 
enable him to chart them on his return. 

On Saturday the 15th, a stop had to be made to procure food for the dogs which 
were getting uncontrollable and eating their harness. An island just south of the 
entrance to Moffet bay, and named " Dominican," the day following, Sunday, by Mr. 
Morin was the camping ground chosen. Only one seal being captured on Saturday, 
the party was forced to stay one day longer and were rewarded with a prize of five, 
which greatly helped the drawing capacity of the dog teams. 

At a distance of some 80 miles from Arctic bay (locality not given) Mr. Morin 
discovered a vein of mica on the 16th, and 25 more miles were added to the itinerary 
on that day. Travelling was very arduous during this time on account of broken 
ice, fog and snow, and the first of the Shinik islands was only reached on Thursday, 
the 20th. On this day a cairn was erected and the foUoMdng record was left: — 

" Thursday, October 20th, 1910. On this day, two parties composed of 0. J. 
" Morin, first officer, with Macket-a-Oui and J. T. E. Lavoie, Mr. Mathe, Monkey- 
'' Shaw, Koudnow and his boy, having left the ship 'Arctic', wintering in the Arctic 
^' bay, Adams sound, have here built this cairn and left a record inclosed. Mr. 
^' Morin having traced the south end of Admiralty inlet is leaving to-morrow to re- 
" turn to the ship, whilst Mr. Lavoie continues to Agoo in order to survey the coast 
'' of Prince Regent from cape Hallowell to cape Kater. 

" From observations taken to-day, the latitude is 71° 03' 33". 

" G.S. 'Arctic' being at the present time commanded by Captain J. E. Bernier." 

A cache was also made at this place and provisions, consisting of biscuits, pem- 
mican, lard, bacon and butter, were left in it. Mr. Lavoie's party being about to 
travel overland, the natives were sent out seal hunting. Some seals were killed but 
the strong current took them away from their reach. Some deer were killed, those 
near enough to the camp were brought in while only the hindquarters of those shot 
at too great a distance were brought. A certain amount of the meat was left in a 
cache and the remainder brought along to supply food for men and dogs. 



86 




The mouth of the Sapooting river was reached at 3 o'clock of the afternoon of 
the 23rd October. This is, properly speaking, the most southern point of Admiralty 
inlet. Thirty-five miles was made from 6.30 a.m. till then; a further five miles was 
accomplished bringing the party further up the river. 

The course of the river was followed, and a distance of thirty-two miles was 
covered on the 24th. A party of natives on their way from Igloolik to Agoo were met 
and the two parties travelled together. The river being only some 15 miles in length 
had now been left behind. Lake Sapooting and a great many other little lakes were 
crossed, travelling being very hard over portages, the snow being light, not more 
than two inches anywhere. These lakes and streams are filled with salmon, con- 
sidered by Mr. Lavoie superior to the Pacific coast fish of the same variety. A 
half pound of tobacco would buy from 200 to 300 lbs. of this fish and in this way the 
dogs had ample food. 

The natives feed their dogs altogether with the salmon; they are so abundant 
that they can be caught in the most primitive way possible. A dam of stones is 
made near the mouth of any creek and on their way to sea, the fish, being too 
crowded for jumping, are thrown out by hand on the shores, where stones are piled 
on top to keep them from animals and left there to freeze and for future use. 

On the 26th, between 4 and 5 o'clock, p.m., Agoo bay was reached. This 
bay is, according to the Admiralty chart, Autridge bay. The natives only know 
the inlets, bays, rivers and lakes by the local names, and as they understand but 
imperfectly the use of charts, having no knowledge of the compass, the informa- 
tion desired as to any locality is very hard to get as the names given are totally 
different. Till the bay was actually reached, Mr. Lavoie did not know that Agoo 
and Autridge were one and the same bay. Although Ponds inlet. Button point, 
cape Kater, Arctic bay, etc., are inhabited by natives, barely one in a hundred 
know these places by these names. 



87 

By noon of the 27th, camp was made in the Eskimo village at the mouth of the 
river Ikalo. With the help of the natives this was quickly done. A visit was paid 
at once to the two principal residents. 

Mr. Lavoie was struck by the difference existing between these people and 
those previously met. Of medium height, of good carriage, of excellent physique 
and intelligent looking, these natives compare favorably with any North American 
aborigines. Cleanly dressed, with a certain taste and of good healthy appearance, 
they are splendid specimens of the northern races. Mr. A. P. Low, in his report 




A Group of Natives, Arctic Bay, 1910-11. 

on the cruise of the " Neptune ", 1903-04, comes to the same conclusion as to their 
appearance. Mr. Lavoie having decided to spend some days at this place, to 
increase his knowledge of the Eskimo language, took his quarters in the igloo 
of the Chief Sigailto. He lived with them and adapted himself to their mode of 
life, always with the ethnological end in view. 

From his hosts Mr. Lavoie heard that Fury and Hecla strait had been opened 
for three and a half months during the summer. Navigation in Prince Regent 
inlet would probably have been equally free. At the date of writing, the 29th Oc- 
tober, the ice had not yet formed in the deeper waters. 

Of the natural wealth of the country, Mr. Lavoie reports that the rivers empty- 
ing into Whyte inlet and Agoo bay are all full of salmon of superior quality. Deer 
are very numerous on the prairie forming the south side of Brodeur island. White 
foxes are very numerous. A good many seals were seen. The moose, although 
plentiful at Igloolik, are never seen here. Polar bears rarely frequent this country. 

On Monday, the 31st, good-bye was said to the natives, and a start was made 
for cape Hallowell. It could not be approached any nearer than some 4 or 5 miles 
on account of the accumulation of ice on its steep shores. On the 1st of November, 
All Saints Day, a cairn was erected at the camping place and the following record 
was left in a bottle. " November 1st, 1910. Left the C.G.S. 'Arctic,' commanded 
" by Captain J. E. Bernier, the 10th October. This record should have been 
" left at cape Hallowell; having found the landing impossible on account of the ice, 
" this site was chosen. Leaving this morning for cape Kater. J. T. E. Lavoie, 



88 

" C. S. C. E., J. E. Mathe, Geologist." As well as leaving this record, a Union 
Jack was hoisted and a board was made secure at the base with " 'Arctic/ 1910 " 
on the one side and " Capt. J. E. Bernier, Commander," on the other. The 
names of Messrs. Lavoie and Mathe, with the date, were added. Three miles 
north of the cairn a strip of land projecting to the west forms two small bays; one 
opening on the north and the other on the south, the latter being the larger, being, 
one mile deep by a mile in width. In honor of the day Mr. Lavoie gave it the 
name of All Saints' cove. The following day an immense plain, bleak, dreary 
and bare, was seen and was named Plain of the Departed. Here, Mr. Lavoie 
decided to retrace his steps, Prince Regent inlet being opened and the ice on the 
shores being too rough and uneven to continue the journey to cape Kater, as at 
first intended. 

An incident of note, on the return journey, occurred. Two Eskimo youths of 
18 to 20 years attacked 3 polar bears. Having no rifles they got to within 10 feet 
of them and, goaded by the dogs, the infuriated animals became an easy prey to 
the calm and cool natives, who killed them with harpoons. 

The men were killing seals to feed the dogs, and on stormy days, when travel- 
ling was made impossible by the flying snow, repairs were made to sleds and harness.. 
Ice was, at times, very hard to travel on, and more than once dogs, sleds and men 
were upset into crevices, where great difficulty was experienced in getting them 
out. _ 

The "Arctic" was reached on Thursday, the 17th, after travelling for 37 
days and having covered more than 580 miles, going and coming. Sketches 
of the interior of the country, for 55 miles, were made. An exploration of the 
extreme south of Admiralty inlet was undertaken and completed. The east shore 
of Prince Regent inlet was followed for about 60 miles. The season being so far 
advanced and the sun visible only for a short time, the distances are mostly 
approximate. 

ESKIMOS MET DURING MR. LAVOIE'S FIRST TRIP. 

Agoo. 

Heads of family Children 

Amawalik Outoukoutou Mala (g.) 

Akawap Powla 

Sigailto Anoutercchewang Irrarach-o Atouctale Aterjewan 

Nassa Anouactian Outouarchjune Kaktouragnou 

Anouteaggne Nateracpin 
(Widow) Aggleieu 

Cowna Maiarctou (g.) 

Pania 

Ignouara Outakoutou (g.) Sigailto (b.) Pictalo (g.) 

Irggnane 

Sircpapigne Aguagnou (b.) Actouargnon 

(Widow) (b.) 

Ignouara Piiwactou (g.) 

Illoupaligne 

Artetan A child 

Aggnowhesang 

Iggnejian 
Kounou 



89 



Ivisarocto. Lake Tascil. 



Camaille Octagavon (Widow). 

Touketague 

Ourouiaggnan Toup^gnan (b.) Kadlou and two other children. 
Ouctang 

Kouticoutou Siagoulou (g.) 
(Widow). 



Kooke. Lake Sapouting. 



Oke Kaioucharchouctan (b.). 

Oouiarccian 

Ivielle' 

Oukeleaggne 

Ictoureligan 

Oukagnouna 

Opposite the name of the wife of each head of family, the names of their 
sons' wives are given. Mr. Lavoie reports that he was unable to get all of the 
children's names. Although belonging to the same tribe, Otumjua and Ooming 
were away for the winter with a few families, making in all a party of some twenty 
members. 

APPENDIX No. 2. 

Report of Exploration through Brodeur Peninsula, Surveys of Prince 
Regent Inlet and South End of Admiralty Inlet, Baffin Island, by J. T. E. 
Lavoie, C.E., Abridged. 




J. T. E. Lavoie leaving for Prince Regent Inlet Coast Survey, March 15th, 1911. 

Wednesday, March the 15th, 1911. — Following the instructions given a few 
days ago, I left the ''Arctic" at 8.30 this morning, with Koudnou as guide and dog 



90 

■driver. Proumictou and his wife, in charge of a relief sleigh, were to accompany 
me as long as they were needed. At 9 we were at Oulouksigne, where we stopped 
for dogs' food and to refix our loads, part of which was transferred to two other 
Eskimos who were leaving on a bear hunt expedition and had to cross Brodeur 
peninsula with us. At 11 a.m. we said a last au revoir to those who had come as 
far as the Eskimo village with us, and we headed for Cunningham point. At 
4.30 p.m. we were alongside the small islands near this point where we halted 
for the night. We took possession of an abandoned snow hut and made prep- 
arations for our first night's rest. The day had been cold, 26° below zero, the 
wind from the north and the snow drifting. As I had acquired experience in my 
■expedition of last fall, I had decided to run this one on an entirely different principle 
and adopted the Eskimo ways of travelling, clothing, sleeping, etc. Being 
used to this country they cannot but be more practical than we in these matters. 
Therefore, on leaving the "Arctic " I had discarded all European clothes and dressed 




Eskimo Stone and Snow House, Arctic Bay, 1910-11. 



in a double skin suit. The inner one, with the hair worn next to the flesh, was 
covered with a more ample one, hair outside. All my body, and even my feet, 
were thus covered. As the couletangs fall over the pants, Chinese fashion, on a 
windy day it is rather uncomfortable, but it keeps the skin from getting wet when 
walking. My head was covered in similar fashion by the hoods attached to the 
couletangs. Woollen goods are useless and unhealthy, as they get damp from the 
body's moisture, then freeze and cannot be dried. Every night we built an igloo 
(snow hut) of blocks of snow. Although it took us an hour every night, it was 
preferable to pitching a tent, and more comfortable, as it kept the wind out. Our 
fuel being limited, I decided to cook but two meals a day, in case my gasoline 
would give out before my return. I got used from the first to eat raw meat, either 
caribou, bear, or seal; I got so used to it that I found as much delight as the 
natives in sitting on the ice immediately after a seal had been killed, to eat its liver 
with blubber before it had lost its animal heat. The taste, when acquired, is fine. 
This might seem disgusting to some, but Arctic explorers have to put up with it. 



91 

From the ship I had taken as Uttle provisions as possible, so as not to impede our 
progress. These consisted mainly of sailor biscuit, tea, coffee, sugar, molasses,. 
milk, and a few sides of bacon. To feed our dogs and ourselves we depended 
mostly on our guns. I was well ammunitioned, and did not forget tobacco for my 
companions. I used two blankets with hair on one side. One was placed on the 
snow and the other over me. The outer garments were always taken off outside 
the igloos and spread in the cold, the inner were taken off inside, and when damp 
had also to be spread out to be dried by the cold. The only clothes I wore in 
sleeping were my blankets; it is the best way to be comfortable during the day and 
not feel chilly. It is also the only way to keep partly clean. Getting up in the 
morning was fearful. As a rule we kept two Eskimo lamps burning during the 
night. 

Thursday, March the 16th. — Thermometer at 7 o'clock this morning read 18° 
below; barometer at 8 a.m., 29 42 ". Weather partly fine, no wind, but rather foggy. 
On leaving our igloo this morning I noticed another act of our dogs. They were 
all sitting around our hut and gazing intently at it. As the last person came out,, 
the whole pack, 24 of them, made a wild rush through the small opening and filled 
the hut. By noticing, they knew that some bones or crumbs had been left by us. 
The noise they made, snarling, howling and fighting, was far from musical. This 
was repeated every morning. No human power could restrain them, and they 
dashed in when all harnessed, tangling the traces. They easily disentangled, as- 
every one of them is attached to the komatik by a single trace with a ring passed 
through a rope tied to the sleigh. What these dogs can and cannot eat has always 
been a surprise to me. Every night all our clothes and their harnesses had to be 
put in a safe place, or the next morning we might have awoke and found our- 
selves minus our pants or our boots. We broke camp at 11 in the morning and 
kept going till 6 p.m. in a S. 66° W. course, leading us to a small bay and large 
ravine on the west shore of Admiralty inlet ; the ice across was good, so that we- 
kept at a good pace, notwithstanding our heavy loads. At 2.30 p.m., I noticed 
two mock suns at right angles with the sun, and crossed by an arc, its lower 
portion below the horizon. At 4 p.m. the upper part of the circle had disappeared, 
leaving but two slanting columns with riainbow colours. Barometer at 10 p.m. 
read 29°. 96". Thermometer at 10 p.m. read 28°. Night intensely cold. 

Friday, March the 17th, 1911. — At 9.30 this morning the thermometer read 
30° and the barometer 29.70". At noon we broke camp, the thermometer reg- 
istering 24° below zero. The direction followed was S. 67° W. for twelve miles, 
through a narrow canyon with perpendicular walls, averaging 100 feet in height. 
No contrasts were noticed. Six miles from the coast I noticed a ravine stretching; 
from the north. At 6 p.m., as the sun was setting, we stopped for the night and 
built our snow houses. The mercury then read 16° below zero. A few hours 
later the wind veered from north to south, beginning a raging snowstorm. Our 
height above sea level was 400 feet. At 11 p.m. the barometer read 29.26". 
Outoucoutou, an Eskimo of Igloolik, came up to us during the night on his way 
to Prince Regent inlet. The sleighing was very hard, as the snow was everywhere 
covered with sand blown from the plateau. In some places we had to work 
over broken stones, the snow having all drifted. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. to-day 
I noticed a splendid display of a perihelion. At first two mock suns only were 
visible at right angles with the sun and parallel with the horizon. A bright halo,, 
red, yellow and green, formed itself, its lower limb disappearing below the horizon. 
A third mock sun appeared above the true sun, another semi-circular halo, yellow, 
red and purple, intersected the first one when the mock sun appeared. Semi- 
circular arcs of yellow, red and green formed themselves, intersecting the two mock 
suns parallel with the true. Bright rays were spreading in every direction, both 
from the sun and the three mock suns. The colours were bright and showing 
advantageously at the horizon. 



92 

Saturday, March the 18th, 1911. — This morning a very strong wind blew from 
the S.E. with blinding snowstorm. It was impossible to proceed and we therefore 
stayed inside our igloo. At noon the temperature was 13° below zero, and kept 
steadily rising till it reached its maximum of 3° above at 8 p.m. At noon the 
barometer read 28.72" and reached its maximum at 8 p.m., with a pressure of 
28.53 ". The temperature inside our snow hut rose to 54° through the heat given by 
our two Eskimo lamps. It then began to give way and we had to put a new roof 
on. 

Sunday, March the 19th, 1911. — 7.40 in the morning the barometer read 
29.71". At 8.00 the thermometer registered 18° below zero, and 10 below at noon. 
At 11.30 a.m. we broke camp, direction followed was N. 58° W. for a distance 
of 15 miles, when we halted for the night. At this point we were 660 feet higher 
than in the morning. At 5 p.m. we were on an immense wind-swept table-land, 
a barren desert without any sign of vegetation. The dogs had to be led zig-zag 
from one snow bank to the other, wherever a small depression existed. Different 
from other parts of the country, there is neither lake nor river in the interior, but 
only small ravines running into the one we have followed so far. At 5 p.m., the 
barometer read 28.06". At 6.30 p.m. we stopped for the night on a large plateau 
sinking gradually east and west. The day being St. Joseph's Day, I called it St. 
Joseph's Plateau. The desolate and barren scenes around were relieved by a jery 
animated scene when we halted for the night. The caravan comprised five 
komatiks, drawn by 56 clogs, seven men, six women and three children. A tempo- 
rary village of five huts is built every evening in two hours' time. Whilst the 
children play and romp, the dogs howl, fight, or try to tear out and eat anything 
that lies close to them. They are the cause of our late departures in the morning, 
as we have to unload our provisions every evening and hide them in a snow fortress. 
We tried tying the dogs at night, but when we were wrapt in slumber they would 
eat their harness and attack our provisions on the sleigh. Dogs are indispensable 
for travelling in the North, but although affectionate they are a continual cause of 
annoyance. 

Monday, March the 20th, 1911. — In the morning we woke to find out that 
another monotonous day had to elapse before we could proceed. A heavy N.W. 
wind, blowing at a rate of twenty miles an hour, accompanied with snow and a 
temperature of 23 below zero, was impossible to face. I made the attempt several 
times, but gave it up in disgust and returned to our igloo. The dogs themselves 
were uncontrollable, and none of the natives felt inclined to budge; the barometer 
was stationary at 28.25". In the course of the day, Okey overtook us, with his 
wife and a child, coming from Moffet bay. They were entirely exhausted, and had 
been severely frost bitten on their faces and hands. I revived them with hot coffee 
and was many times thanked and blessed for my kindness. Picta, piiouk cab- 
louna, couianaming, etc. 

Tuesday, March the 21st, 1911. — The thermometer at 8 a.m. read 28°, reach- 
ing its maximum after twelve, the barometer registering 28.55". From 10.30 
a.m. till noon we followed a due south course, covering a distance of 6 miles. 
We then changed to S. 41° W. for eleven miles to S. 56° W. for three miles, 
and to S. 41° W. for another 4| miles. The valley which we are following 
s so tortuous that between the two last named directions we covered 1| miles in 
S. 10° E. direction. On account of yesterday's snow, the sleighing was much better, 
enabling us to cover 26 geographical miles. We were then at an altitude of 980 
feet above sea level. This part of the country is entirely composed of greyish 
limestones, finely broken and without traces of any fossils. We had a very fine 
day in all respects. From 9.15 a.m. to 10.30 a.m. two brilliant mock suns, with 
circular arcs of intense purple, yellow and red hues, were visible, the lower part of 
the circle disappearing below the horizon. At 6 p.m. the thermometer registered 
26.5" below zero, and the barometer 28.89". At 10 p.m. an accident befell us and 
quite incongruous it was. Our snow hut was on fire. This is how it happened. 



93 

The small gasoline stove had proven so far a great bore and test to my patience. 
Every night it took me three-quarters of an hour before I could make it generate 
its gas. Then after a few minutes it would spurt and start to flame, so that every 
time I had to pour alcohol in the heater to start it afresh. I came to the con- 
clusion that some dirt had found its way into the conduit. My guide Koudnou, 
who was very clever, had seen me two days before take it to pieces and clean it. 
This night it happened that it was worse than ever, and as soon as I had gone to 
bed it occurred to him that he might fix it there, for he sat near an Eskimo lamp. 
He took his wrench and unscrewed the first part. Unluckily before doing so, he had 
forgotten to let out the air that was pumped into the reservoir to press out the 
^gasoline. A stream about | of an inch came squirting out right over the native's 
lighted lamp. Naturally it caught fire and spread over us as Koudnou was trying 
to stop it, setting our blankets and clothes on fire. The flames partly blinded us. 
With a savage yell, Pioumictou drove through the wall of our igloo; of course I had 
to follow. Just think of the discomfort of a man, his blankets burning and having to 
■escape through a wall of snow with no clothes on, and the thermometer at 30° 
below zero with a fresh northerly wind. Koudnou bravely remained inside the hut. 
Whilst the wall was repaired with new blocks of snow I wrapped myself in a spare 
caribou skin and waited about ten minutes on a snow bank for the repairs to be 
■completed. I found out later that the reason why my stove gave me such poor 
service was the intense cold, as in May it worked splendidly. 

Wednesday, March the 22nd, 1911. — At 9 a.m. the thermometer registered 
22° below zero. At noon it read 19.5 below, and 29,5 below at 6.30 p.m. The 
l^arometer fell from 28.91" to 28.66" at 11 p.m., wind blowing from the north. We 
left camp this morning at 11 o'clock, and kept steadily at it till 6 at night. The 
iirst six miles we made S. 35° W., turning to due east for the last 15 miles of our 
day's tramp. The height above sea level was 1200 feet. The gasoline stove re- 
newed its pranks and nearly drove me mad. I was somewhat exhausted, cold and 
famished, our supper being oiily ready at 11 p.m., the interval between our two 
meals being 14 hours. At 1 p.m., I tried to eat a piece of raw caribou, but it was 
frozen so hard that my teeth were not able to chew it. 

Thursday, March the 23rd, 1911. — At 10.30 a.m. the barometer registered 
28.61 " of pressure, the thermometer rising to 23° above zero at noon. The wind 
kept blowing steadily from the north. We spent the day in the igloo repairing the 
damage done by the fire on the night of the 21st. A pair of pants, two pairs of 
stockings, one pair of mittens and different repairs to my blankets were made. 
The Eskimo women proved very useful in this emergency. This work, as also 
that of lighting and trimming the lamps, is so essentially feminine, that not one 
man could lower himself to do it. Nothing mortifies an Eskimo as much as to 
surprise him in the act of trimming his lamp, which is in itself an art. I could 
never get those I had with me do it as it would be derogatory to their standing. In 
the course of the winter I had a striking example of this. I called one day on old 
Nassau in his igloo. His cooney had been out for two hours and so had her lamp. 
Instead of relighting it he waited patiently on his bed for another hour, when she 
returned. In the meantime the temperature in the hut had fallen to 10° below 
zero. As far a I could understand, these habits are based on legends and super- 
stition. 

Friday, March the 24th, 1911. — The atmospheric pressure at 8 o'clock this 
morning stood at 28.78", the thermometer at 8 indicating 32° below zero. We re- 
sumed our journey at 11 a.m., following the course of W. 87°, 30 N. At 4 p.m. we left 
the large undulating plateau on which we had travelled the last days, and struck 
through a ravine with a drop of 500 feet at its head and running nearly due west 
for seven miles, finishing in a kind of oval basin of 5 miles by three, and surrounded 
by limestone mountains ranging from 600 to 700 feet in altitude. Three peaks 
a hundred feet higher rise from their summits, one to the east, one to the north, 
and one to the south west, which I thought must be Mount Sherer. The two 



94 

others I respectively called Mount Lee and Mount Arthur, after my two brothers. 
At night I felt a longing for home and the picturesque hills and mountains of western 
Bale des Chaleurs, my own home. We had covered over 28 miles during the day 
and were glad to call halt at 7.30 p.m. I came to the conclusion that we could not 
be very far from Prince Regent strait, as our altitude was only 295 feet above sea 
level. It was time to be there, as the country we had crossed is entirely void of 
game, and we had to replenish our larder and our dogs. 

The maximum temperature registered was 29° below zero at noon. At 8 
p.m. it had fallen to 35° below, the barometer reading 29.64". House building 
and the manipulating of the stove, bare handed, in this climate are not what one 
might term " picnic fun." 

Saturday, March the 25th, 1911. — At 10 o'clock a.m. the thermometer gave 
us 34° below zero, with a most beautiful calm and sunny day. It rose to 29° below 
at noon and gradually fell until at 8 p.m. it read 39°, the barometer ranging 
between 29.69" and 29.75". We left on our journey at noon in a W. 67° 30" N. 
course for 6f miles, taking us to the bottom of Port Bowen. At 4 p.m. we were 
rounding its southern point. The travelling here was very difficult, owing to the 
ice pressure at the entrance of the bay. The capes surrounding it are entirely 
composed of secondary limestone, indicated by numerous fossils they contain. 
They average from 350 to 500 feet in height. At 4.30 p.m. we halted for the night 
and a day or two, for my men to procure dog food. In our course across Bcodeur 
peninsula we had covered 108f geographical miles (125.22 statute miles) in 6 days, 
an average of 18 miles a day, or 20.87. 

Sunday, March the 26th, 1911. — The thermometer read 32° below zero, 
rising to 12° below at noon, the barometer at 10 a.m. indicating 29.98". By a mid- 
day observation, I found out that I was two miles south of Port Bowen. 

Monday, March the 27th, 1911. — I was exploring the interior of the country. On 
some of the limestone blocks I discovered numerous and very fine fossils They were 
so strongly embedded in the rocks that I could only collect a few poor specimens. 
Not far from our camping place, I found on the sand part of the back bone of a whale. 

Tuesday, March the 28th, 1911. — We had just got up in the morning when a 
clamour broke the air. It was the repeated cries of nanouk (a bear). It was within 
500 yards of our camp and was shot by an Eskimo. This part of the strait is 
literally covered with their tracks. My Eskimos were so keen about killing one 
that I gave them two days to satisfy their craving. In the course of 
the day I went over part of the strait and examined the ice conditions. There 
is a fine ledge for sleighing along the shore, but towards the middle it is all broken 
and piled together. It is the usual resort of the polar bears. They feel perfectly 
at home there, for neither men nor dogs can follow them. Every one we came across 
during my expedition always sought refuge in that mass of broken ice. I returned 
to camp a little ahead of my hunters who returned empty-handed. At 10 p.m. 
a brilliant aurora borealis appeared in the south east. It diffused a bright white 
light in long wide streaks on the hummocks while the northern horizon was covered 
with stratus clouds of vivid purple and dark green colours. 

Wednesday, March the 29th, 1911. — This being the last day given to my two 
men they left early, bound to kill something. They returned at 8 p.m. with a seal. 
Two Eskimo families left us to-day to get across Prince Regent inlet to land on 
north Somerset. I made another trip in the interior but failed to discover any- 
thing of interest. 

Thursday, March the 30th, 1911. — I resumed my work and I started for cape 
Kater at noon, bidding au-revoir to the remaining three Eskimo famiUes that had 
crossed Brodeur peninsula with me. Those that helped me to take across part 
of our provisions were paid with tobacco. The day was fine with an easterly 
wind. We covered a distance of 17 miles, in some places over very bad ice. Between 
port Neil and mount Sherer part of the capes are castellated with an elevation 
of about 500 feet above sea level. 



95 




Seal Hunting Apparatus. 



Friday, March the 31st, 1911.- — At 7 a.m. we broke camp, heading due south, 
and kept plodding until seven p.m., covering a distance of 16 miles. We camped 
off the southern point of Macbean bay. The ice over which we travelled was 
very bad, pressed and all broken in pieces of different sizes, cemented together 
by new ice. We even had difficulty in finding a place to build our igloo. As we got 
further south the coast decreases steadily and is hardly three hundred feet in 
height in Macbean bay. 

Saturday, April the 1st, 1911. — At 8 in the morning the thermometer read 
21.0° below zero, rising to 2° below at noon, the barometer indicating 30.38". 
Exposed directly to the sun's rays and in a sheltered spot the mercury rose to 12°. 
In the forenoon a bear was seen and captured by my men for dog food. This de- 
layed our departure until 2.30 p.m. We followed close to the shore on very bad 
ice, covering but 5 miles in a southerly course. 

Sunday, April 2nd, 1911.^ — The maximum temperature was 11.5°, barometer 
10 a.m. 29.96". Fine and sunny day with calm weather, sky of a far away deep 
blue. We kept the Sabbath holy. Koudnou and Pioumictoo went hunting. In the 
evening the sun set in an ocean of purple clouds of various and fantastic forms. 

Monday, April the 3rd, 1911. — We broke camp at noon, keeping a southerly 
course till 7.10 p.m., covering a distance of 12.6 miles. The ice on this part of 
the coast was frozen into fantastic shapes. It is exhausting to travel over such 
rough ground. 

Tuesday, April 4th, 1911. — At 9 a.m. the thermometer registered 26°, reaching; 
its maximum at 11°. Barometer at 10 a.m. read 29.37" with a strong S.E. wind. 
We left our hut at 11.30 a.m. We had hardly covered a mile when I noticed a 
large male bear following us within a hundred yards, immediately the dogs were 
let loose and rushed at him cutting off his retreat. He made a bold stand, and 
very interesting it was for me to see him trying to get rid of the dogs. Koudnou 
eventually shot him through the head from a distance of fifty feet. Two dogs 
were badly hurt by the bear in the fray, one had all his hind leg chewed and was- 
useless for the rest of the trip. The skinning and stripping of the meat and dog 
feeding delayed us so much that we slept in yesterday's igloo. 



96 

Wednesday, April 5th, 1911. — As I expected to be in the vicinity of cape Kater, 
whence I had to survey the coast to cape Hallowell, I decided to remain here 
and take a set of observations to work from. These placed me in latitude 72° 25' 
20" N. by longitude 90° 08' 50" W., a few miles N. by W. of cape Kaye. The 
atmosphere was hazy and calm, fine snow falling. 

Thursday, April 6th, 1911. — We left camp in the morning at 11, heading 
towards cape Kaye. At 3 p.m. we rested a quarter of an hour on the point that 
advances from it, and kept on in a S. 34° E. course, covering a distance of fifteen 
miles. At 5. 15 p.m. a bear and its cub were seen by the natives. They hurriedly 
threw off the loads and off we were in hot pursuit. We had only the excitement of 
the chase, for the animal took her cub into an impenetrable mass of broken ice 
where even the dogs could not follow. 

Friday, April 7th, 1911. — The day was bright and clear, the thermometer rising 
to 4° above zero at noon, but falling rapidly to 35° below at 10 o'clock in the evening. 
The barometer kept steadily at 29.948". At 11 .30 in the morning we broke camp 
and kept travelling till 7.30 p.m., when we halted for the night a few miles south 
of cape Kater, which hes in latitude 71°. 55' N., longitude 90° 05' W. Although 
the ice afforded very poor going the whole way through in Fitzgerald bay, yet we 
managed to cover 24 miles. My progress was somewhat impeded by my Eskimos. 
This part of the strait is literally covered with bear tracks, and whenever we came 
across any fresh ones off they went on the chase at a moment's notice. I had Jo be 
careful to make them follow the coast, otherwise they would zigzag across the 
strait with the loads. 

Saturday, April 8th, 1911.' — We left cape Kater at 9.20 in the morning, taking 
a S. 34° E. course, covering a distance of 23 .3 miles. At 4 .30 p.m. we stopped on 
a low sandy point, 21 miles south of cape Kater and forming a long bay running 
S. 60° E. We built our igloo on this point, two miles from its extremity, where 
it turns to the south. In rechecking my observations and notes I found out that 
this newly discovered bay was 101 miles south of Port Bowen in a direct line. 
To-morrow I intend to make a thorough survey of it. At 10 p.m. we had our usual 
supper of boiled bear meat. It was something of a routine since we came to Prince 
Regent and our menus have invariably been: bear meat, fried in its own fat for 
breakfast, boiled for the other two meals; an occasional seal's liver was served 
to vary the monoton^^ Biscuits and coffee were partaken of when in camp, 
while marmalade comprised the dessert. 

I set to work at noon on the ninth, taking observations, and found the latitude 
where we camped last to be 71° 27' 35" N. and my longitude by chronometer 89° 
22' 40" W. The first part of the point, 3 miles long, bears N. 5° W. from my ob- 
servation point. Looking to the south it runs S. 12° W. for one mile, turning to 
S. 75° E. for six miles. The bay formed by this point looks very shallow from 
the small bergs aground in it and the very low elevation of its shores, which are but 
30 feet high 2 miles inland. In those explorations I found ancient beaches of recent 
formation. The first about | a mile from the actual shore was but ten feet above 
the actual sea level, as shown by cross section. 

It is very nigh impossible to take accurate angles of the coast more than J of a 
mile from it, as it looks uniform with the ice. The geological formation is the same 
as exists all along this coast. The limestones and fossils collected were similar to 
those between latitude 72° and 73 ° N. While taking my observations and mak- 
ing a thorough survey of this, which I named Bourassa bay after our great Canadian 
orator, Koudnoo and Pioomictoo went seal hunting. An unusual incident 
occurred to-day as 1 was preparing to take the sun's altitude. In raising my eyes 
I saw a splendid Polar bear advancing cautiously towards me, and at hardly fifty 
feet distance. I had not seen it before, as it crossed from the bay behind me.^ 
over the point. I just dropped my sextant, went in our igloo and came out with a 
No. 12 shot gun, hid behind a large stone and stood ready to shoot at its face 
when it would be at close range. It was all I could do, as my men had taken 



97 

the two rifles with them on going out in the morning. Happily for me, the lame 
dog had remained with me. My movements roused the dog's attention, and on see- 
ing the bear he began to shiver with fear and howled most dismally. The bear 
turned and ran away, to my personal relief and probably for its own safety. At 
5 p.m. Koudnoo and his associates returned to the camp. They had killed a 
she-bear and her cub. 

Monday, April the 10th, 1911. — I finished surveying this part of the coast. 
Before leaving the ship I had been told to build a cairn on cape Kater. It struck 
me that I had entirely forgotten it. As it was too far to go back there, I decided 
to place it on the point near which we were camping. After three hours' hard 
labour it was completed, with a four feet base and five feet high. As the stones 
were solidly frozen to the ground it was the best we could do. From this point, 
which I called Leah point, after one of my sisters, who died during my 
expedition in the north. Cape Kater was bearing N. 23° W.; mount Senecal, a 
small circular elevation, N. 35° E.; and our camp S. 24° E., the bay running 
S. 60° E. At 5 p.m., although the mercury showed but 5°, I suffered intensely 
from the cold, which I attributed to the damp atmosphere and chilly wind. From 
2 p.m. the skies were overcast and foggy. At 7 p.m. the barometer read 30.398". 

Tuesday, April the 11th, 1911. — The day was stormy. Aeolus must have given 
a holiday to his followers. The skies and the earth were but confused masses to 
our view, the wind raged, driving the snow in clouds before it. These northern 
storms are grand. Naturally, it is impossible to proceed in such weather. We, 
therefore, slept to our hearts' content. At 4 p.m. the wind began abating. A 
remarkable fact is that my barometer did not fall below 30". as at 4 p.m. it still 
read 30.07". 

The greater part of the day was employed in a general overhaul, and fixing of 
our footgear and the dogs' harnesses. Our igloo was quite comfortable with a 
temperature ranging from 25° to 30° above zero. 

Wednesday, April the 12th, 1911. — We broke camp at 9 a.m., following a 
S. 75° E. course for four miles. We then turned to S. 23° E. for 9.2 miles, taking 
us to a low point north of a bay, running S. 80° E., at 1.50 p.m. This point is 
about three miles long, very low, and of finely broken limestone. The ice had been 
pressed against the land, and was very rough to travel over. This bay being the 
most important discovery on this coast, I named it Bernier bay, after the Com- 
mander of the " Arctic." Its north point I called Morin point, after the First 
Officer, and its southern point Van Koenig, after the First Engineer. Three capes 
are situated on its northern shore. These I named Janes and McDonald capes. 
Second and Third Officers, the last bearing our Doctor's name, Bolduc cape ; 
to the low island at its entrance I give my own name. The first part of the bay 
from the extremity of Morin point bears S. 80° E. for six miles, turning to S. 19° E. 
for half a mile, and then to S. 72° E. for 4.5 miles. Half-way in the last course, 
Janes cape was due north. At N. 12° E. is a ravine separating it from McDonald 
cape. These capes are about 150 feet high and three miles from the seashore. 
They are seen from a long distance on account of the low lying country around the 
bay. From our last course the shore runs east for four miles, and S.E. for 8.4 
miles. From 5 to 6 p.m. we went by S. 10° E., where we halted for the night, 
covering a last distance of 5.1 miles, placing us in latitude 71°. 03' N. and longi- 
tude 87° 36' 30" W. From this point the ravine between Janes and MacDonald 
capes was bearing N.W., cape Bolduc, N. 18° W., and the ravine east of it N. 12° 
E. A small low point was at an angle of N. 53° E., inland in S. 47° E., and a 
third ravine N. 30° E., whilst the bay itself continued inland S. 47° E. for about 
five miles, where the river empties into it. We were just in the act of building our 
igloo at night when Koudnoo saw in an easterly direction a she-bear with two cubs ; 
they were about one mile off. I strapped my kodak on one of the komatiks, we set 
the dogs on the scent, and we started in hot pursuit. The dogs in these cases get 
literally crazy, flying over the ice. It was all we could do to hold the komatiks. 



98 

When within J of a mile from the animals, the two leaders' traces were unhooked, 
and to them was given the difficult task of stopping the animals. The way they 
act is surprising. Dashing at the bear, one of them bites its hind leg, the bear 
turning on it and trying to catch it. The other leader attracts the bear's attention 
in biting again its hind paw. This game is kept up till the other dogs arrive and 
help them. The leaders used in this case are always bitches, as the dogs alone 
are cowards. Our other fifteen dogs, all harnessed, got rapidly nearer, and when 
about 50 feet from the she-bear we just rolled off our komatiks. She put up a 
splendid fight, looking after her cubs that were the cause of her downfall. I 
missed the opportunity of a fine snapshot, but my kodak tied on the sleigh was 
inaccessible as the bear was all tangled up in the traces, and with the dogs holding 
on to her was as often on the komatik as off. She was finally despatched with three 
rifle shots, and the cubs strangled. The dogs ate ravenously and so much that it 
was all they could do to draw us back with the carcasses. One of them had been 
badly hurt and we had to take him back on the komatik. It was nine p.m. before 
we reached our camping place, and midnight before our igloo was built and our 
supper ready. I cooked one of the cubs. The flesh was tender and delicious. 
Our appetites were keen, as we had not eaten since 7 o'clock in the morning. The 
maximum temperature registered was 4.8° above zero, snow drifting and the sky 
overcast part of the day. 

Thursday, April 13th, 1911. — I felt the change of the temperature so 
much that I worked bareheaded and barehanded. We left this place at 
half-past twelve, taking a south west course for 6.7 miles, then turning to 
due west for 10.9 miles, taking us within a mile from the end of Van Koenig 
point, on the south entrance of Bernier bay. This point is three miles long, 
and from 10 to 15 feet above the sea level, composed of mixed finely 
broken limestone boulders. It runs to N. 80° W., and has a very small low 
island at its extremity. It was 6 p.m. when we came to it and we decided to spend 
the night there. All the afternoon the moisture-laden wind blew from the east. 
The clouds were low and hazy, intercepting the sun's rays. Whilst building our 
snow hut, we saw a bear some distance on the bay; as we had enough dogs' food for 
the present I stopped my Eskimos from chasing it. At 8 p.m. the thermometer read 
10° below zero, the wind increasing in velocity. At midnight, when ready to sleep, 
the dogs gave us a start in getting on the scent of a bear that came prowling around 
our huts, and chasing him. Koudnoo and Pioomictoo, half-dressed, had to hurry 
after them to call them back and keep them from being devoured or running 
astray. In the interval a storm had broken out. 

Friday, April 14th, 1911. — Pioomictoo and Koudnoo returned from reassem- 
bling their dogs at 2 a.m. One of the former's best ones, both for hauling and bear 
hunting, was not found nor answered his master's call. Pioomictoo stoically 
explained that Kigmeng poilomit nanook tigligpook his dog, had been stolen by 
the bear. During their absence a fearful snowstorm had broken, obliterating 
every landmark. It was with difficulty that they found our hut. I woke up at 
noon. Outside, I could hear the wind roaring. The snow had been drifted into 
our igloo. A coating two inches thick lay over our blankets. My gasoline stove 
and our provisions, which I had placed near the entrance, had to be dug out. 
After lunch, to go outside we had to open our igloo at the top. It was literally 
buried in snow banks. The wind was blowing at a rate of about 75 miles an hour, 
with snow. Nothing was visible at a few feet distant from us, and it was all we 
could do to stand up in the storm. I helped my Eskimo to dig the dogs from the 
snow. They had to be looked after in such weather, as they are liable to smother 
without a move or a howl. It was useless to open the low entrance of our snow 
house, therefore we re-entered it by the top, closing it with a new block of snow. 
No fire was made in the hut, and we ate but cold raw meat. At 9 p.m. the baro- 
meter had only fallen to 29.82", the storm increasing in violence. It was of 
tremendous force, with the wind from the east. 



99 

Saturday, April 15th, 1911. — Yesterday's tempest has increased in violence 
and strength. It is worse than I could have pictured in imagination. I am just 
thinking how lucky we have been to camp on terra firma. What would have hap- 
pened if we were in the middle of the strait. Barometer at noon read 29.50". 
In the afternoon we had to use the same means of going out as yesterday, and look 
after our four-footed friends. At 6 p.m. there was a lull in the weather; the snow 
had stopped, but the wind, which had veered from east to south during the night, 
was still raging. In looking towards our last camping place on the bay I trembled : 
there was no more ice, but a stretch of blue water four miles long by about two wide. 
At 7 p.m. the barometer read 29.57", the wind blowing a gale. Our igloo, cheerless 
and fireless, with a temperature ranging from 24° to 29° above zero. It was too 
windy to keep our Eskimo lamps in trim and my gasoline was limited. Snow water 
and raw bear meat composed our meals. Next day our komatiks, provisions, spare 
clothes and dog harness were buried under five feet of wind-packed snow. We 
worked part of the forenoon to dig them out. Towards 4 p.m. I walked to the end 
of Van Koenig point. From west to N. W. Prince Regent strait was open for about 
seven miles. I could not ascertain the width, as the water was seen as far as the 
eye could see. At about 5 p.m. Koudnoo and Pioomictoo harnessed their dogs and 
went near this open space to try and catch a few seals. During their absence a 
violent snowstorm broke out, lasting half an hour. It was the last spasms of the 
dying tempest. They returned at seven with a bear shot by Pioomictoo. At 5 
p.m. the thermometer registered 20° and the barometer had quickly risen to 29.928 ". 

Over a month had elapsed since I left the " Arctic," and I had not yet reached 
cape Hallowell, although my time had been fully employed. My Eskimos were 
grumbling for two days and inclined to go back. This I attributed to the fact that 
they never travelled over this country, and they are always unwilling to go through 
unknown land. They cannot understand that I can direct them with the sun or 
the stars, although I often surprised them in giving them directions to go to a certain 
spot which we invariably struck. At 11 a.m., the thermometer registered 31° 
above zero and 51° exposed to the sun's rays. It was an ideal day, and I felt com- 
fortable sitting on a snow bank to write and check my notes. At noon the barometer 
read 30.252", when the sky began to cloud. With my sextant and artificial 
horizon I took a full set of observations placing me in latitude 71° 04' 42" N., 
longitude 88° 26' 24" W. From this spot the point bears N. 80° W. and runs out 
two more miles, and due east looking backwards. I then measured one mile going 
S. 44° W. taking me across this point. I then set up my true compass and took the 
following angles of a small bay south of Van Koenig point. This I called Thibault 
cove. Its angles read thus: its southern extremity S. 60° 15' E., distance 5.8 miles, 
turning gradually to S. 48° 30' W. and S. 60° W. A cape 120 feet high and 6 miles 
long was at S. 29° E. This elevation I called Easter cape. It is all formed of lime- 
stone with fossils. I then walked to the extremity of Van Koenig point and examined 
the sand bank lying close to its end. It is but a few feet above sea level and was 
very likely detached from the point itself by the ice pressure which is very great 
here, as shown by its piling in great masses. It is formed of gravel, sand and large 
boulders. From the end of this point, Easter cape bears S. 63° E. and my back- 
sight S. 71° E. More to the south, I presumed that the coast ran S. 27° E., this 
I shall be able to ascertain as I go further south. At 3.20 p.m. the thermometer 
read 31.5° above zero, weather calm with a blue sky striped with stratus clouds 
hanging close to the horizon. 

Tuesday, April 18th, 1911. — The maximum temperature registered was 21.7°, 
the barometer read 30.46". We made our way to Bernier bay, covering a distance 
of four miles from noon to 9 p.m., over exceedingly rough ice and pitched our tent 
on Prince Regent strait. 

Wednesday, April 19th, 1911. — In getting up in the morning, I noticed a 
fissure 6 inches wide through the ice, which was six feet thick, passing right under- 
neath our beds and running diagonally to an open water space, one quarter of a 



100 

mile from our tent. Luckily for us that the weather was calm as we very likely 
would have had a cold bath or would have gone adrift in the strait on an ice field. 
The clouds kept low and foggy till 10 a.m., when out came the glorious sun. At 
11.20 a.m. we resumed our journey, covering the following distances: 2 miles S. 35*^ 
E., 6 miles S. 36° E., 4.4 miles S. 26° E., 12 miles S. 21° E. The coast is jBat and 
very low. From our starting point, a slight elevation, miles inland, was seen at an 
angle of S. 47° E. In changing my course from S. 26° to S. 21° E., this elevation 
was bearing S. 76° E. to E. 20° N. and the land which we had covered, N. 31° W. 
At 5.20 p.m. we met a bear, the dogs starting in hot pursuit, but the animal ran to 
safety in a field of broken and piled up ice, the whole of Prince Regent strait being 
filled with ice in a similar state. 

I passed a very poor night, feeling cold, tired and sleepy. The monotony of the 
voyage told on me. We left camp this morning at 9.35, going S. 35° E. for three 
miles, when we crossed the extremity of a low sandy point running southwest^ 
followed I mile with another similar 2h miles, further in a S. 44° 40' E. direction 
there is a small hill bearing E. 10° 30' N. This angle was taken 1000' feet from 
the shore and the next one 1.3 miles more to the south. It was then bearing N.W. 
From noon to 6.05 p.m., when we halted for the night, we covered but 10 miles in a 
straight line, zig-zagging in and out of the numerous small points on this part of the 
coast, which direction is S. 36° E. The wind veered to S.E. during the day; it was 
so laden with moisture that I several times was under the impression that itrwas 
raining. As the sky was too overcast to take the sun's altitude, I had to run on 
my true compass angles, using prominent spots or boulders for my backsights. 

Friday, April 21st, 1911. — At 9 o'clock this morning the thermometer registered 
26.8°, the wind still from the S.E. but not as wet as yesterday. The barometer showed 
a pressure of 29.998". The sun was invisible for the whole day. Our departure was 
delayed till noon, as we had to change our cariboo skin boots for those of seal. The 
softening of these last ones is not a matter of a few minutes. We covered 6.1 miles^ 
rounding a low headland running S.W., and resumed our course of S. 35° 45' E. 
for another 7.3 miles, when we stopped for the night, at 8.20, at Mathe point, visited 
last fall, bearing S. E. The travelling was excessively difficult, the shore line rises 
25 feet in 75, then the land runs very near level a few miles inland. All along this 
coast the ice had been broken against the shore to a height of from 5 to 10 feet. 
The whole of the strait here looks to be a confusion. It is impossible to picture to 
oneself without seeing it the state of the ice. Of course we had to follow on the 
inclined beach where there was a little snow, and our progress was impeded by a 
number of stones. We saw two or three bears sitting on huge blocks of ice, gazing 
at us as we went past them. Our eyes were in a very poor state, owing to the re- 
flection of the sun on the snow and ice, the suffering caused thereby was quite severe. 

Saturday, April 22nd, 1911. — The wind veered to the east during the night and 
was blowing at the rate of 35 miles an hour. It was all we could do to keep our tent 
upright, and it was impossible to cook any breakfast. At 8 a.m. the barometer 
read 29.898", the thermometer rising to 32.4° above zero, the atmosphere remain- 
ing foggy and the clouds low. My eyes were in a very poor condition, red, swollen, 
and looked as if they had been severely burnt. The continuous darting pains 
were almost intolerable. We broke camp at 11.10 a.m., but were forced to stop 
at 2.20 p.m. by the violence of the wind and a storm that completely threw us out 
of our bearings and reckonings. 

Sunday, April 23rd, 1912. — The storm, instead of abating, had increased 
in violence. We had to pile blocks of snow around and on the tent to keep it up. 
It was very uncomfortable, as the snow drifted in through the door, wetting every- 
thing and preventing us from lighting our Eskimo lamps. My eyesight was just 
a little better, from my not having travelled. 

Monday, April 24th, 1911. — The wind had been raging all the night, and 
there was no change in the weather. The forced rest was enervating and monot- 
onous. In the morning the dogs found the means of stealing my three last pounds 



101 

of butter and eating three sets of harness. Poor animals ! I do not blame them, 
as this was their third day without a single meal. The little bear meat we had left 
we kept for ourselves. At 9 a.m., the barometer read 29.60". May it continue 
to rise. At 7 p.m. the wind fell. At 8 p.m. the barometer had risen to 29.709", 
the thermometer descending to 0°. 

Tuesday, April 25th, 1911. — During the night a northwest wind rose 
and started a new storm. At noon, through a rift in the clouds I managed 
to take the sun's altitude: 65° 02' 00", latitude 70° 13' 53" N., longitude 
from chronometer 86° 57' 30" W. These observations were taken under 
painful conditions on account of the state of my eyes. At noon, the 
barometer read 29.759" and the thermometer 12°. Taking my observations 
for a base, I then made a triangulation of the most northern cove formed 
by Kimacto, as shown on my accompanying map. At 1 p.m. we broke camp, 
ready to battle the wind and the storm rather than remain idle. We followed 
the coast for 7.5 miles, changing our course to south to cross over to Hall island. 
About 5 p.m. we found that it was impossible to do so, as we were stopped by 
masses of broken piled ice. The travelling so far had been the worst we had 
gone through. In climbing a stranded iceberg I could see the northern end cf 
the island, still unexplored. We retraced our steps, following a course of E. 30° 
25' N., making a passage for our dogs and sledges through the chaos in which we had 
fallen. I am of the opinion that the passage between Kimacto and Hall islands 
is very shallow, which I attribute to the heavy floes of old ice that fill it and causes 
the new ice to break and pile through the strong current running there. At 8 
p.m. we halted for the night; still a long distance from land, at 9 p.m. the thermom- 
eter registered 6.2°. At midnight the barometer stood at 29.758". The wind 
blew from the N.W. all day, drifting the snow in thick clouds. At night the Eskimos 
fed their dogs with an untanned frozen sealskin cut in small pieces; they ate 
ravenously, as they had not been fed since the 21st, as we had been unable to procure 
either a seal or a bear. A noticeable fact is that they pull better and go much 
faster when starved for a few days. 

Wednesday, April 26th, 1911. — In the morning we found our sledges to be 
in a very shaky state. All the lashings were loose and some of the boards split, 
all requiring repairs. We broke camp at 10.30 a.m., travelling till 2.15 p.m., 
when we halted at the foot of cape Hallowell in a convenient sheltered spot. Here 
we pitched our tent for a few days, as I had some surveys to complete here and visit 
and triangulate Hall island in the eastern entrance of Boothia gulf. As far as I 
know, I was the first white man to set foot on this land. I had been unwell and 
restless all day, chilly and feverish, I was battling against those creeping sensations 
and bound to master them. At 3 p.m., Koudnoo and Pioomictoo went hunting; 
our dogs had been then six days without eating, and we three without meat. As 
we did not capture any seals lately, we had no blubber to feed our lamps with, 
and therefore sat in the cold at night without any fire. At midnight I felt uneasy 
as my Eskimo had not got back to camp. Rather than to sit shivering I undressed, 
spread my two cariboo-skin blankets on the ice, crept in, and was soon fast asleep. 

Thursday, April 27th, 1911. — ^At 4.45 in the morning, the barking of the dogs 
woke me. My men returned. They had gone across Autridge bay to the north 
shore of Fury and Hecla strait and had come across a herd of nine cariboo, which 
they shot. The dogs immediately ate three whole carcasses. The skinning and 
trimming of the remaining six had delayed them a few hours. We felt tired 
enough to sleep till nine in the morning. At noon I took a full set of solar observa- 
tions, placing me a few miles north of cape Hallowell, which is in latitude 69° 57' 30" 
N. by longitude 85° 26' W. In the afternoon I made a thorough triangulation of 
Autridge bay. Its northwestern coast does not run as much inland as shown on 
the charts, the opening of Whyte inlet being more to the north. From this point 
its eastern shore runs nearly due south for five miles before turning, to continue the 
north shore of Fury and Hecla strait. I also took the height of the different capes 



102 

around. They range from 600 to 800 feet, are rugged and of beautiful shapes; they 
are mostly composed of blende with white feldspar. The atmosphere was clear 
enough to enable me to see land across the strait from S. 18° E. to S.E.; the first 
small island north of the cape Englefield bearing S. 11° W. This part of my work 
was finished at 8 o'clock at night. 

Friday, April 28th, 1911. — The barometer at 9 a.m. read 30.102" with northerly 
wind and the thermometer 3° above zero, indications of a sunny clear day. Our 
seventeen best dogs were harnessed to one of the sledges, and at 10 o'clock I left 
with Koudnoo to explore Hall island. Five miles south of cape Hallo well I took 
the angles of the entrance of Agoo bay. They read N. 50° W. to N. 72° W. We 
then headed West. At noon, I stopped for observations; I found that I was in 
latitude 69° 50' N., longitude 86° 39' 30". From this point, the island, which is 
very low, was bearing N. 86° W. ; its southern point, which is somewhat higher, was 
by S. 50° E. It was 2.20 p.m. when I set foot on this island; from my latitude point 
we had covered a distance of 8 miles in a S. W. direction. The travelling of this 
last part was very poor on account of the bad state of the ice. Once on the island 
we went inland 4.3 miles on a southerly course, reaching the highest point of the 
island, 225 feet above sea level, where I took a new set of observations. Cape 
Hallowell was bearing N. 48° E.; the northern point of the island W. 74° N., and 
its southern end S. 45° E. to S. 65° E.; Encampment bay, surveyed by Hall, was 
at an angle of E. 10° N. on the west coast of Melville peninsula. The place Where 
we were would have been an ideal spot to build a cairn, as I had been asked to do. 
Unhappily there was not a large stone to be found on the island. It is entirely 
composed of sand and small stones; divided in small valleys covered with grass and 
moss; a few tracks of reindeers were seen in one of them On leaving we took a 
S. 45° E. course for 3 miles, taking us in a small bay, running S. 0° W. The island 
extending two more miles and ending S. 30° E. At 7.20 p.m. going S. 10° E., cape 
Parry, bearing east, I took another reading of Hall island, viz: N. 70° W. Encamp- 
ment bay, which has an opening of seven miles, is situated between capes Englefield 
and Parry, two imposing bluffs of a dark gray colour. They looked majestic, their 
summits being crowned with purple clouds. There is also a wide valley running in 
the bay S. by E. | E. At 8.30 p.m. I noticed a perihelium, the sun at the time being 
but a few degrees above the horizon. At 8 p.m. we passed between cape Englefield 
and the small island north of it, taking a direct course for cape Hallowell. It was 
10.20 p.m. when we halted in front of our tent. The sun had been set half an hour, 
so that it was not very dark. The thermometer was registering 2° below zero. The 
dogs had been travelling at a fast rate all day, preventing us from walking, which 
meant that I was chilled when I entered my tent. A good hot cup of tea quickly 
renewed my circulation. In the twelve hours and twenty minutes that I was 
gone, beside the stops to enable me to make my observations, we had covered over 
74 geographical miles. The dogs were pretty well played out and given two whole 
reindeer carcasses for their services. On the eastern shore of the island, for a width 
of three miles, the ice was partly composed of old ice frozen to the new. The 
travelling, therefore, was very rough. At its northern end it was so pressed and 
broken that it formed an impassable mass. On Fury and Hecla strait the con- 
ditions were very good; all the ice was new and level as far as I could see with 
my spy glass. 

Saturday, April 29th, 1911. — The barometer at 9 a.m. was 30.110". Maximum 
temperature, 14.2°. Wind from the north. In my expedition last fall, owing to fog, 
I had mistaken Autridge bay for Agoo. This error I have corrected this spring. At 
10 a.m. I climbed cape Hallowell. It lies N. 26° W. of the point where we camped, 
and is about three miles inland. Its height from barometric measurements is 
465 feet. The bottom of Agoo bay being an angle of N. 24° 30' W., where there is a 
large bluff, cape Hallowell is entirely composed of small, flat, red limestone mixed 
with a certain amount of granitic rocks. I returned to camp at three p.m., and with 
the help of the Eskimos I built a cairn and left the enclosed report : — 



103 

Fury and Hecla Strait, Saturday, Ai-ril 29th, 1911. 
I had orders from the commander, Capt. J. E. Bernier, to leave this report on 
Ihe island seen by Hall from cape Englefield and to build a cairn. I went there 
yesterday, crossing it from east to west, returning last night. As I could find no 
stones on the island to build said cairn and as the ground was frozen too hard to 
make it of earth, I decided to leave this record on this point. 

J. T. E. Lavoie, C.E. 

I had entirely recovered from the pains I had been suffering these last few days. 
Unluckily, my eyesight was not improving. My right eye, which I always used for 
my observations, was completely blind at night. To alleviate the pain, I was using 
the Eskimo cure, which consists of placing a cold stone alternately on each eye. 

Sunday, April 30th, 1911. — Barometer at 8 a.m. read 30.059". Maximum 
temperature 18°, with northerly wind. It was with sorrow that I turned my back to 
Eury and Hecla strait this morning and started north. My intention, as I was coming 
down Prince Regent strait, was to send back Pioomictoo from cape Hallowell 
with a note to the effect that I was surveying Fox channel, and would be at the 
Anglican Mission in Cumberland gulf in July, where I would board the " Arctic.'' 
Pioomictoo was satisfied with the arrangement, but I could not persaude Koudnoo 
to follow me ; as a year would have elapsed before he could have returned to Arctic 
bay, he was afraid that his wife and children would suffer from his absence and be- 
lieve him lost. I was disappointed that the Eskimos I had met here last fall were 
all gone. I would have taken one of them and kept on. 

At half past eleven we broke camp, heading for Whyte inlet. Eight miles 
from its opening, on the east coast, I discovered a small island, which I named 
O'Sullivan; it was at the mouth of a small bay running from S. 70° E. to N. 42° E. 
Due east, there was a narrow ravine and a small river running into it. On our way 
"we passed several herds of reindeer. Whilst I was triangulating at this point we 
saw twelve others coming towards us. Six were killed, which were skinned and the 
quarters put on our sleighs. I had to stop the two Eskimos from killing the whole 
lot; they have a mania for killing everything they come across, even when not 
needed. At 7 p.m. we passed Ikalo river (Red Salmon) turning to N. by E. | E. 
for 5.5 miles. At 8.45 p.m. we changed our course to N. W., the last five miles of 
Whyte inlet running in that direction. At 9.30 we were at the mouth of Ivisaracto 
river coming from the north. At 10 p.m. we followed its course for 4.8 miles and 
stopped at an altitude of 150 feet above sea level on Taasseel Ivisarac to White 
Salmon lake, where we halted for the night. Close at hand were a few salmon caches 
left this winter by the natives; we secured a few good ones. Finding that I had no 
more salt or pepper since yesterday, we ate some raw. They have a fine taste and 
do not need any seasoning. Numerous tracks of wolves and foxes were seen where 
they tried to upturn the stones to get at the fish. The barometer at 10 p.m. read 
29.92" and the thermometer 0°, with a cold raw wind. 

Monday, May 1st, 1911. — We broke camp at 10.30 a.m. covering three miles 
N. 52° E.; then we changed our course to east. I stopped at noon to take the sun's 
altitude. My observations gave me latitude 70° 30' 42" N. Where the lake turns 
to due east there is a sandbar running north and nearly right across ; this led me to 
believe last fall that there were two lakes. Around this lake there are large undulat- 
ing plains cut with shallow ravines, with brooks running into it. At 1.15 p.m. we 
left the lake, taking to an undulating plain in aN.80°E. coursefor4.6miles, when we 
reached the water divide at an altitude of 450 feet above water level, where we met 
a herd of 14 reindeer. We then changed our course to N. 55° E., taking us to 
Taasseel Sapooting after a seven miles run. We passed numerous small lakes scat- 
tered over the plains, we covered 8 miles on the lake in an easterly direction and 
1.8 miles N. 60° E. In the course of the afternoon we saw six herds of reindeer 
feeding in the plains along the shore of the lakes. This is the time of the year when 
they migrate from south to north and the country seemed full of them. A remark- 
able feature was that these herds were entirely composed of does, ready to bring 
forth their young. Not one single buck was seen. 



104 

Tuesday, May 2nd, 1911.— The barometer at 9 a.m. stood at 29.52". The 
maximum temperature registered 26°. The sky was partly covered with 
Cumulus and Pirus clouds, the wind blowing from the west. We broke camp at 
11.15 a.m. in a N. 60° E. course, gradually turning to N. 45° E., which brought us 
to Kooke, the lake's extremity, at 2.30 p.m., after a run of 12.6 miles; we were then 
130 feet above sea level. Following the river was impracticable, we went across 
the country and halted for the night at 9.30 p.m. There was no sun, and I lost my 
bearing several times. We passed about 20 herds of reindeer in one day, shooting 
two small ones. 

Wednesday, May 3rd, 1911. — The temperature this day was similar to the day 
before, low clouds, foggy horizon and west wind. The barometer at 10 a.m. read 
29.55", the thermometer rising to 38.2°. My solar observations placed me in 
latitude 70° 50' 55" N., longitude 82° 46' W. At 1 p.m. the wind veered to north; 
I resumed my journey, running N. by E. taking me to Berlingetto bay, 5.2 miles 
north of my observation point. We travelled north, following the east coast of the 
bay, for 15 miles, taking us to Taasseelloo, into which flows a river that the natives 
follow when they go to Igloolik, as it takes them to the head of Gifford river, called 
Kanerkshookjewa by the Eskimos. At 10 p.m. we were going east, following the 
shores of Taasseelloo to a bay running east and literally full of islands and reefs. 
At midnight the thermometer had fallen to 8° below zero, a change of 46° in twelve 
hours. ^ 

Thursday, May 4th, 1911. — After a run of 35 miles we halted in the morning 
for a rest. At 2.30 I found that I would have some corrections to make to my 
plans of last fall, as I had then been travelling in continuous fogs. I had not been 




Looking for Seals, 1910-11. 



able to take any solar observations and had worked on approximate bearings. At 
3 in the morning the sun showed above the horizon. Tired and cold, I rolled myself, 
dressed, in my blanket and went to sleep on a snow bank. As we had no more blubber 
for our Eskimo lamps, Koudnoo and Pioomictoo went seal hunting. They re- 



105 

turned at 6 a.m., a fearful storm having started, the wind blowing at the rate of 40 
miles an hour. We pitched our tent and went to sleep. We were too tired to eat 
and just had a cup of tea. We met Koudnoo's sister and her husband, who were on 
their way back to Igloolik. They told me that Mr. Mathe was in Moffet bay 
prospecting with Ooming. 

Friday, May 5th, 1911. — At 2 a.m. the thermometer registered 10° below zero. 
At 2.30 the glorious sun rose. It was below the horizon such a short time that we 
had 24 hours of daylight. At 3 a.m. the barometer read 29.559". I prepared our 
breakfast whilst the Eskimos were repairing the sledges and fixing our loads for an 
early start. At 6.30 a.m. we broke camp taking a course of W. 27° N. for 15 miles. 
Observations here showed that we were in latitude 71° 20' 21" N. by longitude 82° 
35' 10" W. From this point I took the following angles: N. 88° E. land north of 
the group of islands where we camped, continuing in N. 55° E., N. 20° E., due north 
a high cape and point. At N. 43° W. land disappearing. Due west, a line of reefs 
close to large island finishing south. Leaving, we took a new course of N. 20° E., 
which, after 13.2 miles took us to the eastern shore of a bay. Cape Illusion bearing 
N. 20° W., and a line of reefs between it and the point of Crown cape, N. 15° W. 
The first cape I called Illusion cape for the reason that seen from where I took ob- 
servations it looked very high and close, but as we advanced it seemed to recede and 
get smaller; this was caused by the refraction, as I noticed very often that a dog seen 
at a mile distant often looks as large as a pony. Crown cape was named after its 
peculiar form. At 6 p.m. we were at the bottom of the bay, having covered 11 
miles in a N. 20° W. course. We then started across country and kept at it till 8.30 
p.m. The sleighing on land was very bad, the snow breaking under our feet and 
sleds sinking. We covered but 4.6 miles in our last two hours and a half. We met 
several herds of reindeer. Two were shot and given to the dogs. At. 8. p.m., the 
thermometer was 8° below zero. At 9 the barometer read 29.453". Provisions 
were getting low. At night I used the balance of my chocolate. 

Saturday, May 6th, 1911. — The temperature rose during the night and it began 
to snow, the barometer indicating 29.301" of pressure at 11 o'clock . At noon the 
thermometer stood at 22°. I had waited till then to start, as I intended to take 
the sun's altitude. The clouds were so low and the atmosphere so damp that I 
failed. Therefore I continued my course by angles. We broke camp at 1 p.m., 
heading north through a tortuous valley studded with numerous small lakes. At 
8.40 p.m. we came to the bottom of Moffet bay, 15.9 miles north of our last camping 
place. The plains that spread between this last and the one more to the south rise 
to an altitude of 135 feet above sea level and are surrounded by high bluffs. At the 
lower end of Moffet bay is a large oval mountain, 1,000 feet high and overlooking 
the whole country. It is so majestic and beautiful that I named it Mount Venus. 
At 8.40 p.m. we pitched our tent on the ice a few miles from the land. As I had 
work for about two weeks yet, I intended to cross to the west shore of Admiralty 
inlet to make a thorough survey of it. Koudnoo and Pioomictoo went reindeer 
shooting whilst I was preparing the supper. They returned at 10 p.m. with five 
carcasses. At 11 p.m. I noticed that I had forgotten to cork a tin can containing 
4 of a gallon of gasoline. Unconsciously I placed it between my two knees to 
screw the cover on when the gases caught fire from my small stove that was two feet 
from me. There was a terrible explosion, the can splitting in shreds; I was severely 
burned, and were it not for my reindeer skin garment I certainly would have perished. 
My suffering was intense, and my speedy recovery was largely due to the kindness 
and skill of my Eskimo guide's wife. 

Sunday, May 7th, 1911. — I was forced to rest in the tent as I was too weak 
to leave for the ship. Water was continually running from my sores, producing a 
burning itchy sensation. Large pieces of burnt skin and flesh fell from my face. 
I felt feverish and at times cold and unable to eat. I could not even swallow 
condensed milk. Pioomictoo's wife looked after me as a mother. 



106 

Monday, May 8th, 1911. — Feeling somewhat stronger I told my men to prepare 
the sleds and make for the boat. We left at 1 p.m., leaving everything behind us 
so as to travel faster. My left eye opened to light, and I noticed I could see at a short 
distance. I tried to take the sun's altitude, but it proved too much for me. At 
10 p.m., we stopped for the night. Although the temperature was not lower than the 
preceding days I was shivering all day. The Eskimos took good care of me; they 
gave me part of their clothing and wrapped me in a blanket when travelling. 

Tuesday, May 9th, 1911. — At 9.30, we broke camp on our homeward journey. 
The thermometer stood at 9° above zero, my eyesight had improved a little, but at a 
distance of over 100 feet the objects appeared triple. Two seals were killed in the 
a,fternoon for our dogs' supper. At 9 p.m. the tent was pitched for another lone- 
some night. 

Wednesday, May 10th, 1911. — The sun was already above the horizon before 
I went to sleep in the morning. I fell in such a heavy slumber that the Eskimos 
remained quiet, and it was half past ten when I woke up. I had my burns attended 
to, washed and bandaged, and after a hasty meal we resumed our journey at 1 p.m. 
At midnight we were still going, bound to reach the " Arctic " before stopping 
another night under the tent. 

Thursday, May 11th, 1911. — At 3 a.m. I was climbing the gangway of the ship 
■" Arctic," feverish, chilled and exhausted. I was so frightful to look at that the 
watchman failed to recognize me, nor did my faithful shepherd dog, which J! had 
left on board ship. I called on the Captain, who was very surprised to see me in 
such a plight. The doctor was called and I was well attended. 

I had suffered so much these last few days of my journey that after my arrival 
on board the ship I was laid down with inflammation of the intestines. I want 
here to express my gratitude and kindest regards to Capt. Bernier, who for a whole 
week attended me day and night. 

This completes the narrative of my spring expedition, in which I had covered 
816 geographical miles (939.6 statute miles), 508 on my journey to cape Hallowell 
and 308 on my return journey through Admiralty inlet. The corrections in the 
north of Admiralty inlet were made July the 29th, on board the C.G.S. " Arctic " 
when leaving the harbour. Baillarge bay was located by triangulation from the 
^'Arctic," taking cape Crauford as my base. It is situated between Elwin inlet 
and Strathcona sound. From there also was located the bay on the we&t shore of 
Admiralty inlet, in about the same latitude. I found through my observations 
that all the sounds on the north of Baffin island trend to the east, and not to a true 
south course, as some of them are shown on the chart. 

APPENDIX No. 3. 

Report of J. E. T. Lavoie on Surveys on the Northern Coast of Baffin Island, 

IN August, 1911. 

Tuesday, August the 8th, 1911. — By your order, we left Albert harbour in 
latitude 72° 40' N., longitude 77° 48' W., at 9.45 this morning. The whole 
party consisted of First Officer 0. J. Morin, captain of the launch and my help- 
mate, P. Mercier, engineer, A. Nolet, fireman, Wm. Morin, sailor, J. E. Mathe, 
geologist, A. English, mineralogist. I was in charge of the expedition. In leaving 
Albert harbour we headed due west, stopping at the Eskimo village for Second 
Officer Janes and five natives, who were towed as far as Salmon river in a whaleboat. 
The boat contained our provisions, tents, coal, etc. A light canoe was also towed, 
for use in going ashore. 

At 5 p.m. we went ashore, took water, set up the tent and prepared our dinner. 
The inspirator having gone wrong we were delayed till twenty minutes to ten. As 
the time to complete the work we had to do was rather limited, we decided to run 
by watch, which we did the greater part of the night. At 11.30 p.m. we passed 



107 

two Eskimo toupiks and saw several natives. We hailed them and inquired if we 
could obtain either fresh salmon or caribou. Neither were to be found. The 
course we then followed was S. 64° 30' W. At midnight, running S. 53° W., we 
passed the mouth of a large river forming a delta and running into a small bay in 
four branches. The distance is 29 miles west of Albert harbour ; salmon are 
plentiful in the bay. From Janes creek this part of the coast of Baffin island is 
a gentle slope, covered with a luxuriant Arctic vegetation, and resembles a per- 
fectly kept lawn. Of course, as there are neither trees nor even shrubs, it lacks 
variety of scenery, except here and there a small brooklet. 

Wednesday, August the 9th, 1911. — At midnight I took my watch. In a few 
minutes a thick fog rose from the water covering the whole horizon. It was so 
dense that we could see but a couple of yards around us. I then ran into a field 
of broken ice running with the tide. Mr. Morin was called to work the launch 
through it at 1.30 a.m. Going half speed we struck a reef; no damage was done, 
but we were alarmed as the boat slipped off on the other side and kept on its 
course. At 2.20 a.m., finding a convenient spot, we anchored the launch off a 
grounded iceberg and pitched our tent on the rocky shore. Wm. Morin, acting 
as watchman, kept walking on the bank the remainder of the night. The engineer 
and the fireman slept on the bunkers in the launch. Mr. Mathe and Mr. English 
spread their blankets near a huge boulder. Mr. Morin and I retired to our very 
small tent. The fog was thick all morning, delaying our departure till half-past 
twelve. It began to clear at 10 a.m., showing clouds in the skies. The heat from 
the sun was felt and soon dried our blankets. At noon the barometer read 29.948 
and the thermometer 54° above zero, one of the hottest days of this region. Before 
leaving, we took the sun's altitude, placing us in latitude 72° 31' 51" N., longitude 
79° 20' 45" W., and indicating the opening of a sound (no name) more to the west 
than shown on the chart. This point we made the centre of all our subsequent 
observations and triangulations. The coast for 8 miles is not regular, but full of 
small bays and indentations and rising rapidly, looking southward. One mile from 
our observation point, course, S. 5° 37' 38" W., we took the angles of the different 
landmarks, the course for the middle of the sound then bearing S. by E. and 
closing our view. At 1 p.m., going at a rate of 6.5 miles an hour and due south, 
we passed a small island and bay. At 6.15 p.m., we stopped near a reef half a mile 
from land. We then rowed ashore and took new observations. They gave us 
latitude as 72° 30' 00" N., longitude 79° 29' 45" W. I then placed my theodolite 
on a rock, and with Mr. Morin triangulated the opening of the sound. A large 
island between this and Arctic sound was between angle S. 45° 30' W. to 
W. 21° 30' N. At 3.20 p.m. we resumed our journey by the following courses: — ■ 
2| miles E. by S. i S. (S. 73° 07' 30" E.). 
61 " '' '' (78° S. 45' 00" E.). 
7 " " " (S. 84° 22' 30" E.). 

This sound is very deep, especially the last thirteen miles. Its total length 
is 31 miles. Its waters are of a peculiar opaque blue, not seen in other bays. 
Its north side is very rich in vegetation ; although of an altitude of 100 feet, it 
is steep and abrupt. The south shore, on the contrary, is barren, formed of steep, 
high, and, in some places, perpendicular bluffs of metamorphic rocks. It is also 
higher than the first one, in some places rising to 1,800 feet. In its last twenty 
miles it contains four narrow ravines. There is certainly a peculiar pleasure and 
sensation in exploring new country through unknown waters and contemplating 
the wild beauties of the northern regions. 

Whilst working at our observations this afternoon, Mr. Mathe and Mr. English 
went exploring. Nothing of value in minerals was seen by either. Mr. Mathe 
found an Eskimo skeleton and recent tenting place of the natives. Mr. English 
brought me various splendid specimens of Arctic flowers in which this sound is 
very abundant. Here we also found a piece of a log 12 inches in diameter by 6 
feet long, and one of three inches by twelve feet. Twenty-five miles E. by S. | S. 



108 

of our observation point we discovered a harbour on the south shore of the sound. 
Its opening is three miles wide, and it runs inland S. by W. for a distance of 2| 
miles. It is surrounded by huge black cliffs, its waters are of a still deeper blue 
than noticed elsewhere in the sound. This harbour is very deep and would there- 
fore afford poor anchorage. Thirty feet from the shore we failed to reach bottom 
with an eight fathom line. Its southern part has a canyon and river running in 
which is fed by a huge glacier several miles inland, but quite visible from where 
we were. Mr. Mathe and Mr. English followed the valley thus formed, studying 
its geological formation. The sound itself continues in an E. by S. | S. direction 
for another six miles, where another river runs in. We were unable to ascertain 
if these were frequented by salmon. Our work in this harbour being over, we 
reached our bearing, started west, this time following the south shore. After a 
run of twelve miles, we passed another harbour similar to the one already de- 
scribed, but running to a great depth inland S. by W. for five miles. We then 
kept on exploring and studying the lay of the ground. At midnight, my watch 
being over, Mr. Morin replaced me at the wheel. We had splendid weather and 
took advantage of it in our work. 

Thursday, August 9th, 1911. — Our launch was kept steadily moving till a 
quarter past two in the morning, when the anchor was dropped. We were in 
latitude 72° 20' 40" N., and longitude 79° 54' 15" W. and N. i E. of yesterday's 
observation point. At noon the observed sun's altitude was 66° 24' 00'^ with 
skies somewhat cloudy, wind variable. The barometer read 30.50 and the 
thermometer 44°. 

Cleaning and repairing the engine delayed our departure till 1.20 p.m. 
We decided to explore the shores of the bay, and anchored in this morning. It is 
semi-circular in shape and runs two miles inland in a S. by W. course. A small 
river empties into it, coming through a large valley. One mile inland we discovered 
one of the lakes that fed it. We also found out that salmon were in abundance 
at its mouth. We made futile attempts to seine a few, being hindered by the 
depth of the water and the rocky bottom. We found here old abandoned stone 
huts and a number of tent circles. The shores bordering the valley's mouth 
are swampy and covered with a thick carpet of moss. Although wet, it afforded 
us a soft couch. At 1.40 p.m., the pass through which we steamed bears S. 40° W., 
turning for the last mile to S. 17° 30' W. At 2 p.m. we came to Arctic sound, 
and changed our course to due south. At 3.15 p.m. we stopped on the north 
shore of bay Paquette. We went ashore here and took observations before going 
back. I thought that it was preferable not to go to the bottom of this sound, 
which has already been surveyed and is correct. I preferred to explore the bays 
between it and Milne inlet, thus completing the map of this part of Baffin island. 

The whole coast of Arctic sound is rugged, abrupt, and composed of 
metamorphic rocks, broken at different intervals by deep, narrow ravines. There 
are no banks, the cliff rising sheer from the sound, except in its southern end, 
which extends in a gently sloping plain. The vegetation is very scarce and poor 
throughout the whole of it. The waters are very deep and sure for navigation. 

At 5.40 p.m., after lunch, Mr. C. J. Morin and I climbed a very high cliff. 
We had a most magnificent view of Arctic sound, looking north. The west channel 
of the second large island we discovered was blocked with ice. This island I 
named Frechette island for our National poet. At 6.30 p.m., everything in 
readiness, we resumed our journey. The skies were cloudy, and the wind, 
coming from the north, was damp and cold. Passing near Frechette island, I took 
its height, 51° by 800 feet base, showing it to be 998 feet high. It is over five 
miles long by four wide. It has an imposing appearance, rising a huge perpen- 
dicular mass from the water. Its northern end is slightly over 800 feet high. 
It is formed of part of what is shown as the west shore of Arctic sound on the 
charts. At a quarter to eight p.m. we were enveloped in very dense fogs and 
ran amongst reefs where the current was very strong. The waves breaking on 



109 

the rocks made a great noise. These reefs rise from the deep water; the highest 
was about 35 feet above the sea. We anchored close to the reef, waiting for the 
fog to Hft, as it seemed likely that we would spend part of the night here. The 
compasses being entirely useless in these regions, it was impossible to look for a 
convenient anchoring place through angry waters that would soon have sub- 
merged our open launch, with its side only one foot above water. Mr. Morin, J. E. 
Mathe, W. Morin and I rowed to the rocks. We built a small cairn on the highest, 
and in case of any accident befalling us, I wrote the following note, wrapped it 
in a shot gun cartridge and placed it in the cairn: — 

"Beacon Reef, August the 10th, 1911. 

" To whoever shall land on this dreary and desolate islet we desire to inform 
you that the steam launch Arctic Junior, in charge of First Officer 0. J. Morin, 
acting captain, J. E. Lavoie, commander, P. Mercier, engneer, A. Nolet, fireman, 
Wm. Morin, sailor, J. E. Mathe and A. English, geologist and mineralogist, having 
left Albert harbour on the 8th inst. on a surveying expedition, have completed 
the survey of unnamed sounds east of Arctic sound, which last was finished to-day 
at a quarter to eight p.m., were caught in a very thick fog and came across these 
reefs at 8.20 to-night. Landing, we built this beacon, therefore calling these 
breakers Beacon reef, and left enclosed report. Everybody is well ; leaving as 
soon as fog lifts to survey two uncharted bays west of Arctic sound. 

Signed "J. E. Lavoie, C.E. 

"0. J. Morin, 1st Officer." 
P.S. — On est Canayen ou on ne Test pas. Deo Gratias. 

Record put in cairn at 9.30 p.m. Had we lost our launch or lives, search 
parties would thus have been enabled to trace us. Although exposed, yet we were 
all hopeful and did not think seriously of the situation beyond taking prudent 
steps to prevent accident. At 9.35 p.m. I took my watch for four hours, the other 
hands going to a well-earned sleep. As we had no place to set our tent, we ate 
a cold supper, hard tack and water. The men spread their sleeping-bags on the 
boat in which we towed our coal and provisions, crawled in, and were soon fast 
asleep, paying no attention to the unevenness of their beds nor the drizzling rain 
beating on their faces. The engineer and fireman had curled up in a space 4 
feet by 4 in the prow of the launch, right against the boiler. 

At 1.30 a.m. I called Mr. Morin for his watch and I took his sleeping quarters. 
They were on the bunkers, one foot and a half wide by five feet long and right 
against the side of the boiler. Atlhough uncomfortable, I slept well. It was 
warm compared with the boat, a point gained, as the thermometer fell to 34° 
during the night. 

At six this morning we were up and doing. The thermometer read 38° and 
the barometer 31.00'. The zenith was clear, but the fog heavy on the whole 
horizon, hiding objects at a distance of a few yards. 

At 9 a.m. we hove anchor and headed S. by W. i W. (S. 61° 52' 30" W.)_. This 
course led us to the opening of the third bay, running S. by E. for half a mile and 
then S.S.E. At a quarter to ten one of the tubes of the boiler burst and a stream 
of water fell on the fire. We then could just see land and made for it. A few 
feet from the shore, finding a convenient spot to throw the anchor, I went on the 
prow to heave it ; in doing so one of the prongs caught in my vest. I was within 
a hair breadth of following it in four fathoms of water. At noon we managed 
to take observations, placing us in latitude 72° 20' 42" N. Whilst the engineer 
and the fireman were repairing the burst tube, A. English and Wm. Morin set 
the tent on a loose rock, 18 feet square and just balanced over the deep blue waters. 
We piled stones for a ladder to climb on it and had our provisions and blankets 
thrown on. It was the only level spot on this shore. Quite close to us was a 



110 

small torrent rushing from the mountain side and fed by an island glacier. Al- 
though the fog was hanging heavily on the horizon, the upper sky was clear and 
bright with a beautiful shining sun. After all we feel happy and contented^ 
The northern solitude is broken by the hammering of the engine screw and the- 
saw was grinding through the pine log we found, as it was needed to plug the tube. 
The torrent is roaring and the snow bunting gaily chirping. It is elevating to- 
feel ourselves living creatures in these desolate regions, thus uniting natural legiti- 
mate pleasures with our work. This afternoon we took another sun altitude. 
Through a rift in the fog we saw that we were right at the foot of a huge per- 
pendicular mountain. We lifted our heads and tried to see its summit. We 
even conjectured what would happen if blocks were to detach themselves from its. 
side. We measured it with the sextant and found it to be 3,532 feet high, at foot 
86° 44'. In the course of the afternoon the fog increased to such a density that- 
it hid the sun. 

At 5 p.m., feeling tired and sleepy, 0. J. Morin and I spread our sleeping- 
bags in the tent and took a rest. At 8 p.m. we were awakened by a tremendous, 
roar shaking the very ground and oscillating the rock we were on. An immense 
rock had detached itself from the mountain rock. It split in two and changed it& 
course ; small stones were projected in all directions, passing over our heads and 
falling in the bay. We rose in a hurry thinking that an explosion had happened 
and that the engineer and fireman were blown to atoms ; we saw them pale-faced 
and terror stricken. They had witnessed the fall, and also Mr. English; from 
the first they had been so horrified and spell-bound and felt so sure that we wer& 
in the path of the falling stone that they had been unable to shout a warning. 
Wm. Morin, all laced up in his sleeping-lDag, was caught by Mr. Mathe so as to. 
avoid the stones. He started rolling on the rock and nearly fell in the water. A 
piece of broken rock, 6x5 feet, landed right over us at an altitude of 150 feet. It 
was noticed only after the dust raised by the avalanche had dispersed. The 
leaking tube was plugged twice in the afternoon, but gave way each time when, 
tested. The men kept working at it till midnight, when we all retired for a night's 
rest. We certainly felt a little nervous, as we could not under the circumstances 
change our location. We commended ourselves to Providence and trustfully 
went to sleep. The weather was still raw and foggy. 

Saturday, August the 12th, 1911. — We ah set to work early this morning^ 
the weather still damp and foggy. At 11 a.m. it began clearing and the fog rolled 
away. At noon we took the sun's altitude (65° 15' 50"), placing us in latitude 
72° 20' 42". Our p.m. longitude gave us 80° 30' 00" W. Immediately after lunch 
Mr. Mathe and Mr. English started on an expedition, prospecting amidst the cliffs. 
Mr. Morin and I climbed to a point 950 feet above sea level, at a distance of a. 
thousand feet from our latitude point, in a W.N.W. direction, set the theodolite,, 
and took angles of this sound. From S. 40° E. to S. 55° E. there is a smaH island 
and reef between Frechette island and the shore. From S. 55° 40' E. to N. 24° E.,, 
Frechette island. At. N. 18° E. Beacon reefs and opening of the Arctic sound. 
From N. 20° E. to N. 3° W. is situated the large island at the mouth of the Arctic 
sound. At N. 1° 30' W. smah islands and reefs; N.9° W. reef; N. 12° W. reefs; 
N. 15° W. reefs. These reefs bear N. 41° 30' W. from north of Frechette island,, 
the west coast bearing N.N.W. On returning to our tent we passed the ravine: 
near our camping place. We saw part of the rock that came crashing down, 
yesterday. It must have been very large, as one of the broken pieces that had 
furrowed the banks of the ravine measured over twenty square feet. The engine- 
being repaired and in working order, we steamed off at 4.40 p.m., with 35 lbs„ 
steam pressure. The mountain at the foot of which we had camped I named 
Sister Emma. 

At 6.50 p.m. we entered the last bay on this shore. It bears S. by W. | W- 
Its coasts are also high and formed of rugged cliffs of a wild grandeur. Four 
miles from its opening this sound turns to S.W. by S. for three miles, forming an 



Ill 

indentation. Where it changes direction a rocky ledge about a quarter of a mile 
long advances from the west shore, bearing E.S.E. From S.W. by S. the west 
shore deepens, forming a semi-circular bay. Nine miles from its opening a good- 
sized river coming from S. 17° E. empties into a small river on the east shore. In 
line with the river, but in the middle of the sound, is a small low island a mile 
long, fifteen feet above sea level. Bearing E. by N., there is a deep channel on 
both sides of it eight miles from the mouth of the sound. On the west shore we 
passed a narrow channel running towards Eclipse sound, thus forming a new 
island. Its direction and length follows. As we went to the south the land 
diminished in height. From an elevation of 2,000 feet it gradually falls to 660 
feet. The total length of the sound by measurements is fifteen miles. At its 
bottom it forms a bay two miles long and running S.E. by S., in latitude 72° 24' N. 
In 72° 27' 52" N. we found a small cove where we decided to spend the night. 
The coast all around was gently sloping, forming a valley with a luxuriant growth 
of Arctic flowers and mosses. Between the cove and bay, at the bottom and on the 
point separating them was a lonely, steep and abrupt hill 670 feet high, baro- 
metric measurement. It stood right at the mouth of the valley, finishing at the two 
named bays on the east shore. This hill was about two miles long by f of a mile 
wide. Whilst the others were busy preparing supper and taking a supply of fresh 
water from a nearby brook, I decided to climb the mountain and take a photograph 
of the country. I started with Mr. Wm. Morin. After | mile walk we rested 
at the foot of the hill. It looked to be a pretty difficult ascent; it rose for 580 feet 
in a slope of 1 to 1, then the next forty feet presented a perpendicular surface with 
only a few cracks and narrow ledges here and there. Above this wall it rose for 
another fifty feet more easily ascended, but dangerous on account of the water 
undermining it, and which we could hear dripping. The first part was composed 
of loose angular stones, constantly rolling under our feet. It was ascended with- 
out any incidents, but we nearly came to a speedy end. When climbing the wall, 
Morin was ahead of me, pulling himself up from one crevice to another. When 
about ten feet in midair, hanging by toes and nails, a quiver went through me. 
Attacked by hawks, whose domain we were invading, my foot slipped and I came 
very near being hurled down. I felt so weak that I told Morin I could go no 
further and would try to get down. As for him, he was too far up to attempt to 
come down. Some way or another I found myself freely breathing at the foot 
of the wall, and began to look for a more convenient spot to climb. During that 
time Morin had succeeded in getting over this obstacle, and was going over the 
upper slope of the mountain on hands and knees, when down came an avalanche 
of mud and loose stones, taking him right to the brim of the cliff. There he hung 
on a projecting rock. He felt so weak after such a narrow escape that, although 
he had had but one meal in the morning, his stomach was badly turned. This 
vomiting brought him back to his senses, and he resumed his ascent under the 
impression that I had been crushed under the debris. On my part, I was looking 
at the rocks falling down, expecting to see his mangled body coming down with 
them. Seeing nothing of the kind, I walked half a mile further and found a more 
convenient place to pull myself up. I was busily climbing the last fifty feet when 
I saw him. I hailed him, and on meeting we shook hands as two men just rescued 
from death. He was so pale and weak that he wobbled on his feet. He felt so 
sure of my fate, as he was under the impression that I followed him, that he neither 
yelled nor dared to look behind. Lieut. O. J. Morin and the others had heard the 
noise caused by the falling of the rocks and decided that if we were not back in f 
of an hour to come to our rescue. Once on the top of the hill, I took the lay of 
the country around us. The summit of the mountain itself was level; it had three 
small lakes on it, looking to the east and south. The island was formed of large 
green plains of a gentle slope, entirely free of snow, and dotted with numerous 
small lakes and rivulets discharging into the bay. To the west and north the 
land was rocky and abrupt. Our observations here being over, a hard proposition 



112 

faced us; how were we to get down ? We walked around the whole hill before we 
decided on a descent, but not by a too safe place at its eastern end. At midnight 
we were back in camp, exhausted and famished, our last meal having been taken 
at 10 a.m. The soles of my boots were entirely gone. Walking over the angular 
stones and pebbles barefooted was anything but pleasant. In the interval from 
my departure to my return to the camp, English and Mathe had been looking 
into the formation of the plains and hills. 

Sunday, August the 13th, 1911. — We had supper at 12.30 this morning; it 
consisted of partridges killed yesterday and had been prepared in our absence by 
0. J. Morin. At 2 a.m. we all crept into our sleeping-bags, spread here and there 
on the pebbly beach. We were all so tired that nobody awoke before nine this 
morning. The sun was brightly shining and the skies of a deep blue with only 
a few clouds, and not a breath of wind stirred the calm surface of the waters. 
The thermometer registered 48°. This spot we decided to call bay of Rest. After 
breakfast, we took the sun's altitude and found we were in latitude 72° 27' 42" N. 
At 12.10 p.m., we resumed our journey ; at 1.30 we entered the strait on the west 
shore of the sound. It is seven miles long, runs N.W. by N. four miles and N.E. for 
three miles. Two miles from its opening (coming from the south) there is a bay 
on its south shore two miles deep and bearing S.S.W. into which a medium sized 
salmon river runs. The first part of this pass is f of a mile wide, increasing to 
a width of two miles after the bay is passed. Its coasts are high and very rugged, 
but mostly cliffs of different shapes. In all these bays and sounds the water is 
unusually deep. In some of the smallest we saw large icebergs afloat. At 2.40 
p.m., when we changed our course to N. by E. to N. 15° W., looking towards Pond's 
inlet, mount Morin was visible to the east, the western end of Bylot island bearing 
N. 5° 37' E. and a reef near the shore N. 30° W. At 3.10 p.m. we changed our 
course to N. 30° W. The reef is half a mile west of the point on the eastern shore 
of an indentation running W. by S. and one mile wide. After a two miles run, we 
came to the opening of a small harbour, bearing N. 50° W. The entrance to this 
cove is about 1,500 feet wide, running south by E. for half a mile, then forming 
two larger bays; the first one bears S.E. It has a reef near inner end. The 
other one, which is the larger, bears N.W., and is a mile deep. There are five 
reefs near the eastern entrance of this harbour and a larger one at its western. 
With care it can be entered safely by large ships, and would be an ideal harbour for 
wintering. At 4.20 p.m. we changed our course to N. 60° W. and S. 68° W., going 
around a rugged island. There is a line of reefs extending from 50° to N. 70° W. 
In taking our last course, we passed over numerous water covered reefs, bearing 
N.W. by N. This part of Milne inlet is not navigable and would be unsafe even 
for ordinary sailing vessels. At 4.30 p.m. the plugs of the bursted tube came off; 
we hurried ashore for repairs, as the current running through the reefs is very ^ 
swift. Nearly every hand worked at refitting the engine. Mr. Mathe went pros- 
pecting, and I set up the tent and prepared the supper. Everything was in 
readiness at 7.30 p.m. The barometer read 30.75 and the thermometer 48° 
with the wind from the south, the sky partly covered with clouds. We heard 
what we thought at the time to be thunder claps, but found out later that the 
noise was caused by large icebergs disintegrating, for it happens often in the 
summer that the sun's rays cause the confined air to explode. In such cases the 
surface of the water is covered with small pieces of floating ice. In latitude 72° 
28' N. we passed the mouth of a small harbour bearing N.E. The largest of the 
ragged islands extends nearer the east coast of Milne inlet than is shown on the 
charts; the southern end is very low and extends within 700 feet of the shore. 
The passage between it and the main land is full of submerged reefs for | a mile. 
At 11.30 p.m. we passed Eskimo inlet and continued to steam south, taking 
into account that Capt. Milne's survey of these coasts was correct and as printed 
on some of the charts seen, and not as shown on the last maps published by the 
Department of Marine and Fisheries (see Chart 2177, J. & C. Walker, Sup., 



113 

London, Published at the Admiralty, 14th Dec, 1852, Capt. Washington, R.N., 
F.R.S., 1151). I owe special thanks to the Commander of the expedition for the 
loan of these charts since I came to Ottawa, as it enabled me to complete my work. 
Monday, August the 14th, 1911. — Our little engine kept gaily puffing and 
chucking as we advanced in Milne inlet. At 3 a.m. we were abreast of the north 
end of Stephens island, running in fair weather, passing its south end at 3.50. At 
4.00 we were turning Bruce headland and entering Milne harbour. At 4.45 a.m. 
we were alongside the C.G.S. "Arctic," welcomed by the Captain and the men on 
watch. In five days we had covered and surveyed close on to 300 geographical 
miles. The last inlet runs S. by E. After a three hours sleep on board the ship, 
we left again to visit the bay N. | E. of Milne harbour, which we called Assomp- 
tion bay, it being the vigil of Assomption Day, national holiday of the Acadians, 
to whom I am related. We stopped on the west cape of its entrance and found 
the latitude 71° 43' 56" N., longitude 81° 41' 00" W., the bay running six miles 
more to the south. On this cape I found a vein of mica. We went towards the 
opening of Philipps creek, but as the tube of the boiler was beginning to leak we 
turned back and arrived at the ship at 2.35 p.m. Toward evening I went ashore 
at the mouth of the river running into Milne harbour. It comes through a wide 
green valley of easy ascent and rich vegetation. A few miles inland it forms a 
beautiful fall as it thunders down a rock some twenty feet high. I felt so exhausted 
after this trip that I can but dazedly recollect what happened till we started on 
our way back. Before finishing I must give full credit to the men who accom- 
panied Mr. Morin and myself on this expedition. They were all the time civil and 
full of good will, they never lost their good humour once during all the voyage, 
and went through hardship contentedly. On several occasions we were nineteen 
and twenty hours without sleep and travelled without taking a meal. Yet they 
never complained. We had to act thus as we had much work to do in a very 
limited time. 

Yours truly. 

J. E. T. LAVOIE. 

N.B. — All the bearings given in this report are true. 



APPENDIX No. 4. 

Meteorological Report of J. T, E. Lavoie, C.E., from Observations 
AND Records during Cruise of "Arctic," 1910-11. 

To Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander of the C.G.S. ''Arctic." 

Dear Sir, 

I beg to submit for your approval and publication the meteorological 
observations made during the whole voyage of the C.G.S. " Arctic," from July 
the 12th, 1910, to September the 24th, 1911. The instruments used were two 
mercury and two spirit Fahrenheit thermometers, and two standard barometers, 
obtained from the Toronto Observatory. When the ship was under way, the 
barometric readings were taken from the ship's aneroid. 

The readings were made with the greatest care, recorded and checked daily. 
The prevailing wind of the day was also recorded. As I had no anemometer, the 
velocity of the wind is given, of course, approximately. Arctic bay, our winter 
quarters, is protected by high and steep mountains, consequently the wind was 
never blowing at so high a rate as it was outside the harbour. The wind outside 
often reached a high velocity when in the harbour it was comparatively calm; 
therefore, the direction and velocity of the wind varied according to the locality, 
and would not apply, as a rule, to the north of Baffin island. 



114 



The general state of the weather day by day is given, as well as miscellaneous 
phenomena. Temperature of the surface sea water was registered weekly. The 
barometric readings were recorded daily at 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. of the 75th meridian, 
so as to coincide with the observations taken at the central Observatory in Toronto. 
I also kept a barograph registering from December the 1st, 1910, till September 
24th, 1911. Unluckily, I was not furnished with wet and dry bulb thermometers. 

The mercury froze nine times in December, 15 in January, and did not thaw 
during the last (6) six days of January. The mercury was also frozen from the 
1st to the 12th of February. During March it was frozen every night from the 
1st to the 16th inclusive. I noticed that after a few days of intense cold it would 
remain frozen for two or three days, even after the temperature had risen to 34° 
below zero. 



A/.W. 




s.c. 



OitTora :BoreQ/zs oSjerved zrt l2rcttc :Bay err TP^arcA 




Of the phenomena observed the most remarkable was an aurora borealis. 
It was of such a peculiar formation that I consider a description valuable and 
interesting, and have made a drawing of its form. On March the 4th, 1911, I 
went out at 8 p.m. ; it was then 40° below zero. The northern lights presented 
the most attractive and varied forms it has ever been my privilege to view. The 



115 

sky was of a deep blue and millions of stars were shining. Right from the horizon, 
in the south east, a band of light was rising, white and uniform. At the zenith 
it divided, forming four long white streamers which disappeared at the horizon in 
the north west. Where it divided there was a slight tint of yellow and pink. 
Vivid flashes proceeded constantly from this aurora borealis without changing 
its form or shape. I remained out until half-past nine, admiring its display and 
illumination, but as the weather was extremely cold I was forced reluctantly to go 
on board ship for a short time. Coming out again a few minutes past ten, I found 
the extraordinary display had vanished. I regret that I had been unable to remain 
in the open air and watch it fade away, for it may have assumed other forms before 
disappearing. On March the 17th, during my surveying expedition, whilst going 
across Brodeur peninsula, from Admiralty inlet to Prince Regent strait, I noticed 
a most beautiful sun's corona with three mock-suns, circular and semi-circular 
halos of most brilliant colours. A full description of it will be given in the report 
of my trip. 

Through observations in July and August, this summer, I came to the con- 
clusion that the temperature on the surface of the water is somewhat colder than 
in the atmosphere a few feet above. On August the 22nd, the minimum of the 
thermometer was 29°, the freezing point of the salt water. 

That morning the new ice was ^ an inch thick. 

On Aug. the 23rd min. temp. 32° New ice I" thick. 

« " 24th " " 34.3° " " i" " 

" 25th « 32.0° " " i" « 

" 26th " " 31.5° « " i" « 

« 27th " " 28.9° « « 1" " 

My thermometers were above the top bridge, twelve feet above sea level. 

The lowest temperature registered was that of February the 7th, the thermo- 
meter falling to 55.2 below zero. 

The cold in the Arctic is extremely dry, without any appreciable moisture 
from the beginning of December to nearly the middle of April, when the mercury 
begins to rise above zero. Therefore, it snows very little, the total precipitation 
for the season being eleven and a half inches. ?; 

The warmest day in the Arctic bay was registered on July the 7th, the thermo- 
meter rising to 53.4° above zero, with a strong north-west wind blowing at the 
time. During the return journey, 54 above zero was registered on the 14th of 
August, in Milne harbour. 

I also made a few observations with the thermometer exposed directly to the 
sun's rays. The highest point registered was 67°, and that on July the 21st. The 
sailors were all complaining of the intense heat, throwing coats and vests off. It 
was very calm, not even a breath of wind stirring the surface of the deep waters. 

Respecting the ice formation, I here give the following data : Arctic bay began 
to_ freeze in September ; on October the 1st, the new ice was four inches thick. 
Adams Sound closed on the 6th. Only one measurement of the fresh water ice 
was made, namely, on the 3rd, when the thickness was 10 inches. The salt water 
ice continued to increase in thickness regularly, being 13 inches at the end of 
October, 16| inches at the end of November, 26 inches at the end of December, 
32 inches at the end of January, 38 inches at the end of February, and 45 inches 
at the end of March. Although the thermometer rose above zero in April, the ice 
still kept on regularly increasing, giving 53 inches at the end of April, and 56 inches, 
its maximum, on the 20th of May. The following measurements show the decrease 
in thickness: 27th of May, 52 inches. It then steadily diminished, leaving 43 
inches at the end of June, the under part being all honeycombed. On July the 
10th, it showed 12 inches, when it began to break up by the action of the wind and 
tide. Outside Arctic bay the breaking up occurred when the ice still had a thick- 



116 

ness of two and three feet, leaving open leads from Adams sound to Lancaster 
sound on the 29th. Pond's inlet cleared on August the 5th. The ice retains a 
large percentage of salt, rendering it unfit for use. I tasted it at different intervals 
duting the winter, and could not mark any difference, either on top or below. 
I owe particular thanks to the first officer, Mr. 0. J. Morin", for part of these 
observations. 

When new ice forms in the fall, beautiful crystals of various and regular 
geometrical shapes are formed on its surface. These are very saline, keeping 
the newly fallen snow in a half melted condition and rendering the travelling very 
unpleasant and wet. The snow next to the ice is always unfit for usage, even 
towards the end of the winter. 

The whole mean barometric readings gave a pressure of 29.9294 inches. 
As a rule the barometer is very regular, showing slight variation. November 
was the only month that the mercury remained above 30 inches. 

I am greatly obliged to the first and third officers, Mr. Morin and Mr. Mac- 
Donald, who were kind enough to take the observations whilst I was away from 
the boat and laid up by sickness this spring. 

Yours truly, 

J. T. E. LAVOIE, C.E., 

Scientific Officer on board the 
C.G.S. ''Arctic" for 1910-11. 




Stern of the "Arctic" with the natives who worked at the Canal, June, 1911. 



117 



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At 10 p.m. fog all cleared. Cir.-Cum. beautifully coloured 
by sun's rays. 


Overcast from 8 p.m. 

7 to 8 p.m., beautiful rainbow. Few short showers in afternoon 
Occasional showers and fogs. Sun showing in interval. 
Occasional fogs all p.m. 

Aneroid barometer used when sailing viz., from 
July29thtoSept. 24th, 1911. 

Zenith ^^^^^ \\ 

Rainbow seen on the 5th N^^ /^a\ 

rising from the North \\/Jl 

and running to the West. \\\ I /I 

Horizon . 1 W// 

Shortshowers in p.m. Stopped by ice. Turned back 10 p.m. 

Foggy from 10 p.m. 

6-12 p.m. Fog. Fell in field-ice and heavy fog at 10 p.m. 

New ice i " thick formed during night. 

Lat. 72° 02' 12" N. New ice \" . Stopped by ice, going East 
tor opening. Temp, of water low on account of large quanti- 
ties of ice on the sea. 

Passed Home Bay. Stopped by ice at 3 p.m. 

Lat. 67° 54' 07" N. 10 to 12 p.m. Drizzling rain. Navigation 
through pressed old ice, stopped but drifting South. 

New ice of preceding night 1\" thick. 

10 p.m. Faint A.B. in the South. Lat. 67° 14' 20" N. 2.07 
a.m. snow blizzards. 

Lat. 65° 30' 30" N. Clear water. Meeting large icebergs. 


2 

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Salmon river 

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Prince Regent 

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Navy Board 
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Baffin bay 

Davis strait 
going South 
along Coast 
of Baffin is. 


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Few Cir.-Nim. 
Few Cirrus 
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53° 37' 


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Lat. N. 62° 29' 

5 to 7i a.m., 

or Killinck, No 

Intermittent ra 

Lat. N. 60° 30' 


Fog and drizz 

Fog and rain p 

10 p.m. very 

Rain stopped d 




Lat. N. 56° 51' 
Lat. N. 54° 47' 
A.B. Lat. 
12 p.m. R 


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5 p.m. 




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Passed Isle Ve 
11 p.m. 






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132 




Mr. Chasse, Hunting Expedition, Spring, 1911. 



APPENDIX NO. 5. 

Report of O. J. Morin, First Officer of the "Arctic," on a Trip from the Ship in 

Arctic Bay to the southern end of Admiralty Inlet, in October, 1910. 

Translated from the French. 

In compliance with instructions, I hastened the preparations for this voyage^ 
and on the 10th of October at 9.30 a.m. I left the winter quarters with the eskimo 
guide Mack-Ka-Ta-Wii, travelling on a sleigh, and part of the provisions I was tO' 
use while travelling, the balance to be given to Mr. Lavoie when parting from him 
to trace back my steps. 

Mr. Lavoie, chief of the expedition, had with him two sleighs and the eskima 
guides Mack-Kie-Shasse and Koo-Noo, the latter accompanied by his young son. 
These Eskimos were driving the sleighs, each one of which was drawn by ten dogs. 
The provisions Mr. Lavoie had taken with him were to last forty days. 

Below is a summary taken from my diary from the time I left the ship on the 
10th of October last until my return on the 31st of the same month. 

October 10th, 1910. — Lavoie's expedition which I joined left the ship this 
morning at 9.30. The commander and several members of the crew came with us 
as far as Nasso village, on the south west shore of Arctic bay, near Adams sound. 
There we were greeted by the whole population of the village, which had come out 
from their igloos to welcome us and wish our party all sorts of success in our 
travel. 

At 10 o'clock the three sleighs started in the direction of the southwestern 
entrance of Adams sound, going crossways over the sound. The weather was fine 
and the ice of the sound was hardly four inches thick. The commander and petty 
officer Joseph Lessard accompanied us for three miles. Along the way the petty 
officer killed a seal on which we immediately fed our dogs. 

Mr. Lavoie's sleighs were leading the way with the guides Koo-Noo and Mack- 
Kie-Shasse, my sleigh being the last one. 



133 

Towards 2 o'clock in the afternoon as we were travelling along the shore, 
some 50 feet off the land, the ice broke under Mr. Lavoie's sleigh, which sank in 
twelve to fifteen feet of water carrying down Mr. Lavoie, Mathe, and the guide 
Mack-Kie-Shasse, who tried to keep the sleigh on the ice. However, we managed 
to recover the sleigh, and established camp to spend the night and dry our clothes. 
We were some 10 to 11 miles away from Arctic bay, the shore was rough, and we 
experienced some difficulties in finding a spot on which to pitch our tent. 

October 11th, 1910. — 2 p.m. — We spent a comfortable night under the tent. 
Mr. Lavoie having decided to return to the ship with one of the sleighs, we put on it 
the wet garments that we could not dry in the tent, and with thirty dogs we 
returned to the ship. 

October 12th, 1910. — At 9 a.m. we left the ship forming a party composed 
of Mr. Lavoie, Mr. Mathe, the Eskimo guides and myself with the intention to 
proceed with our journey, interrupted by the above accident. At 11 a.m. we started 




About 67 miles from Cape Cunningham, Admiralty Inlet, October, 1910. 



in the direction of Admiralty inlet driving our three sleighs. The ice was hardly 
strong enough to bear the weight of our three heavily loaded vehicles. Finally 
at 1.15 we rounded cape Cunningham at the south of Adams sound entrance of 
Admiralty inlet. There we found the ice somewhat thicker. About three in the 
afternoon we found ourselves opposite two small islands situated four miles to the 
south of cape Cunningham and over 100 yards from the shore. At sunset, that is 
to say, about 4 p.m., realizing that the ice was not strong, we pitched our tents on 
the shore to spend the night. The weather was pleasant, but rather too mild. 

October 13th, 1910. — We started at 8 o'clock, and half an hour later were 
travelling due south following the shore, finding the ice to be stronger than yester- 
day. At 11 a.m. we could see four small rocky islands, the largest of which is called 
Richards island on the chart. This island is five to six miles from the shore. It 
seems to be round and about 50 to 60 feet high. The three upper islands are smaller, 
situated to the east of Richards island and only a couple of miles from the shore. 
The highest one of these small islands may be 30 feet high. They were situated 



134 

in the direction northeast and southwest of the larger island which lies in the 
middle of the group. Richards island hes some 19 to 20 miles S. S.W. of cape 
Cunningham. At 12.45 noon time we rounded a little point running along a small 
river. Here the land of the shore rises from 300 to 400 feet. It is of reddish hue. 
As for the mouth of the river it may be from 90 to 100 yards wide. The guide 
Koo-Noo told me that the water of this river rises a great deal in the spring, and 
that salmon are plentiful in August. From the entrance of Adams sound to the 
river just mentioned the shore is situated almost exactly in the direction S. to N., 
although at the river it makes somewhat of a bend to S.E. At 2 p.m. we crossed 
a pretty bay lying towards the east, and at 3 o'clock we could see a low point stretch- 
ing out into the sea towards the S.W. On the S.E. side of the point the shore 
changes its direction to S. by E. ^ E. Here the shore is rather uneven and completely 
barren. From our departure the wind was almost constantly from the N.W. 
This day we travelled 7 miles before pitching our tent and without seeing anything 
on Levasseur inlet. 

Oct. 14th, 1910. — 5 p.m. — Having left this morning at 8.15 we stopped 
only at 4 p.m. to camp, having travelled 22 miles. The weather was fine. At 
10 a.m. our sleighs rounded the northern point of the entrance to Moffet bay, 
which is in fact an inlet extending 35 miles inland in the direction S.E. by E. to 
N.W. by W. The entrance to this bay is 70 miles wide, and in the middle of it 
we passed near a large grounded iceberg, towering more than 80 feet above our 
heads. At 3 p.m. we rounded the southern point at the entrance of Moffet bay or 
inlet. Then we proceeded towards the extremity of Admiralty inlet, where more 
old ice was found. Apparently this stretch of water is never completely free of ice, 
as we find that the ice of former years is yet very thick. 

October 15th, 1910. — Saturday, 6 p.m. — We left this morning at half past 
eight and travelled due south. From Moffet inlet to Dominical island the coast 
forms a large bay, 4 or 5 miles long, stretching towards the east. Here the coast 
is low, but it seems to rise gradually farther inland towards the S.E. In the bay 
itself I noticed several reefs. At 10 a.m. we rounded the point S.W. of two large 
islands, ten to twelve miles long each one. They are divided by channels about 
2 miles wide at the N.E. end of which lies a small rocky island. The two islands 
just spoken of are about 80 feet high. From the S.W. end of these islands we could 
see mount Kir-Kei-Too N.W. by W. from us and S.S.W. were six small islands 
and reefs against which the pressure of the ice makes itself felt very strongly. 
At about 11.30 a.m. we reached the ice pack which was bearing strongly upon old 
ice. Here the greatest difficulty of our voyage since we travelled on the ice of 
Admiralty inlet was experienced. 

At 3 o'oclock we had negotiated these first ice ridges and were on the north 
side of an island and confronted by a long reef stretching from the north point of 
Dominical island towards the N.W. The ice was bearing strongly against the ridge. 
As for the island it may be four or five miles along the shore which is almost cir- 
cular. Its height is about 200 to 250 feet above the water level. I called it Domin- 
ical island because we intended to spend on it the next day which was Sunday. 
At 4 o'clock we raised our tent with the intention of remaining on this spot until 
Monday. 

To-day we travelled 17 miles, the coast is rather dangerous in this neighbour- 
hood for any ship that would hug it, on account of numerous small islands and reefs. 
On land we saw a flock of ptarmigan, and our eskimo has killed a seal not far from 
landing. Near our camp were four old eskimo huts built with stones like those that 
can been seen on the shore of Arctic Bay. 

October 16, 1910. — Sunday 6 p.m. — We spent this day on Dominical island 
as it had been decided. Our eskimo killed 5 seals on which our dogs were fed for 
a few days. Mr. Mathe, having done some prospecting on the island, has noticed 
a few veins of quartz. This would seem to indicate the presence on Dominical 
island of some precious metal. At noon Mr. Lavoie and myself have tried to make 



135 

some solar observations to find the exact latitude of the island, but we were 
unfortunately prevented by fog. S.E. from Dominical island Admiralty inlet makes 
a large indentation on the coast of Baffin island. The bay thus formed is from two 
to three miles long and one mile wide. We noticed in it several fields of old ice 
attached to the new ice of this year. Generally speaking, the shore of the bay is 
low. There is a beach all around the bay, and from it the land rises gently towards 
the interior. 

October 17th, 1910. — Monday 6 p.m. — The weather was fine. We left Domin- 
ical island at 8.30 this morning, and travelled some 25 miles before reaching the 
camp where we spent the night. A little to the S. of S. end of Dominical island 
the coast of Baffin island bends towards E.S.E. Then several miles farther it 
turns back to the south. We have travelled from one end to the other of this curve, 
this part of the journey lasting a couple of hours. On account of pressure the ice 
was rather rough and we had some difficulty in driving our sleighs over it. Near 
the south point of this bay Mr. Mathe discovered a vein of mica running over a 
distance of nearly two miles, but we had no time to stop over to do more prospecting. 
All along, the shore has been subjected to great pressure. From our camp we could 
see mount Ikerloo to the S.W. 

October 18th, 1910. — Tuesday 6 p.m. — To-day we only travelled some 11 
miles from 8 in the morning until 12.30. Our dogs seemed tired, so we had to stop 
for the balance of the day. One of our guides having killed a deer, we had a meal 
of venison. While travelling we saw several tracks of deer which apparently were 
migrating in great numbers towards the south of Baffin island. We established 
our tent on a low sandy point. 

October 19th, 1910. — Wednesday 6 p.m. — We started this morning at 8.35 
leaving the land behind us and travelling due south towards the group of Shinik 
islands. Several times we crossed fields of new ice. While travelling we passed 
between the midland and the two small rocky islands near which the C. G. S. 
'" Arctic " stopped during her cruise last fall. To-day our sleighs covered twenty- 
two miles in the direction of Shinik. 

October 20th, 1910. — Thursdays p.m. — This morning at 11 o'clock we reached 
the Shinik islands. Mr. Lavoie proceeded towards Agoo. The Shinik islands 
are four or five in number. They are pretty large, and at a distance appear as a 
single island. The water is very shallow along the coast. It is possible to walk from 
one island to the other at low tide. Tide currents are very swift between the islands. 
They are situated at the farthest extremity of Admiralty inlet, and, generally 
speaking, they follow the direction N.W. to S.E. from the mainland. These islands 
are some four to five miles to the S.W. of the mainland, and from seven to e'ght 
miles to the S.E. of the coast. They are rocky and very low, being hardly 50 feet 
above the sea level. 

A large river empties itself at the inland extremity of Admiralty inlet. Salmon 
are plentiful in this river, which is fed from large lakes, where, according to the 
eskimos, large salmon are to be found as well as fresh water seals. 

As I have just said, we reached Sassiloet at 11 p.m. and there established our 
camp. This afternoon we built a small cairn on this spot. The cairn made out 
of rocks is about three feet high and five feet wide at its base. In it we have left a 
record, as well as the carved piece of board given by the captain to be left in the 
camp. On one side of the board is to be found the name of the C. G. S. " Arctic," 
and on the other the name of Commander J. A. Bernier. The weather having been 
very foggy all through the day I have been unable to take any photos of Shinik 
islands. 

October 21st, 1910. — Friday 6 p.m. — Messrs. Lavoie and Mathe left this 
morning, proceeding towards the mainland in the direction of Agoo. At the same 
time I left camp myself and started my voyage to return to Arctic bay. While 
passing through Shinik bay I took some soundings. To the east of the islands 
I found the depth of water to be 5.7 and 11 fathoms in the direction of the east 



136 

coast of Admiralty inlet. This part of the coast is very abrupt, and the land, which 
is rocky, rises from, say, 700 to 800 feet above the sea level. I am obliged to hasten 
my journey, having nothing left to feed my dogs, and as Mack-Ka-Ta-Wii has lost 
his spear it is impossible for us to kill any seal to feed the dogs. 

October 22nd, 1910. — Saturday 6 p.m. — We left camp this morning at 8 
and proceeded in the direction of N.E. over bale Platte, This bay is very shallow. 
I took a few soundings and found the depth of water to be 14 fathoms near the 
channel of Admiralty inlet, and from 10 to 6 fathoms when going towards the 
extremity of the bay. In the N.W. part of this bay there is a reef situated N.W. 
to S.E. I noticed several growlers stranded in from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. From 
this bay I intend to reach Moffet inlet. To-day we travelled about 18 miles. 

October 23rd, 1910. — Sunday. — There was no sun to-day, the sky remaining 
cloudy all through the day. We left our camp of bale Platte at 9 a.m. and 
proceeded along the valley which is to be found N. by E. of bale Platte, Its vegeta- 
tion is abundant, and we had to pass through wild hay, mosses and aquatic plants 
which in height reached our knees, I have also seen several clusters of bushes from 
two to three feet high. 

In the valley are to be found several small lakes over which we travelled when 
possible owing to the difficulty of moving our sleighs on land. At noon we killed 
a large deer and we saw several of these animals for which the pasture of the 
surroundings seem to be very good. During the day we covered from 6 to 7 jniles, 

October 24th, 1910, — Monday 6 p,m, — We are travelling over a low plain 
all covered with snow, no sun is to be seen The weather is very dreary. Even 
the dogs do not seem to enjoy this part of the journey. Their exhaustion over this 
land is noticeable. Our sleighs with their iron runners are unfit to travel over 
these prairies of mosses. The tracks of animals seen lead me to believe that deer, 
foxes, hares, wolves, also ptarmigan, etc, are plentiful in this neighbourhood, 

October 25th, 1910, — To-day we travelled six miles in a straight line, and 
probably twice as much owing to the circuitous course we had to follow. Fortu- 
nately we have left the plain behind us, and have reached the S.E. extremity of 
Moffet inlet. On reaching Moffet bay the plain makes a curve towards the east 
of some three miles. The basin constitutes the extremity of Moffet inlet, is four 
miles wide and six miles long, and of an elliptic shape. Towards the S.E. one can 
see the summit of a solitary mountain which is shaped like a sugar loaf. On the 
edge of the said basin the ice has been pressed against the south shore and on 
the S.E. shore of the basin I have seen a very large stranded iceberg. The basin 
I am speaking of is full of very old ice. We camped on the shore of the bay. 

October 26th, 1910, — Wednesday 6 p.m. — Sky cloudy. Snow has just com- 
menced to fall. We have crossed the basin from one end to the other. We camped 
for the night on the south point of this bay. To-day we have travelled about 
six miles. The banks along the basin are 500 feet high and the north shore is 
somewhat higher than the southern. As for the water of the basin it is shallow, 
judging from an iceberg which I have seen stranded near the south shore. Along 
the shore of this basin was one of the several eskimo villages of which I have 
seen the shattered remnants. On the spot of my camp I have left in a cache from 
600 to 700 pounds of deer meat and some 20 pounds of pemmican. It has been 
agreed with Mr, Lavoie that when returning he will take provisions from this cache. 

October 27th, 1910. — Thursday 6, p.m. — We have travelled all day towards 
the mouth of Moffet inlet. The north coast of the inlet from the basin towards the 
west rises from 800 to 1,000 feet and it is pretty steep right from the sea shore. 
The south coast is lower on both sides where a few bays, which I have no time to 
visit, are to be found, but according to the general appearance of the country 
the water must be pretty deep. 

October 28th, 1910. — Friday 6 p.m. — The day has been rather foggy, I 
wished to take a few photographs of the coast of this beautiful Moffet inlet but the 
lack of good light prevented me from doing so. 



137 

Moffet inlet must be from 35 to 37 miles long from its mouth to its farthest 
extremity inland. As for its width, I should judge it is above 12 miles along the first 
half, then four to five miles farther in up to the basin. The Eskimos said that 
salmon are to be found at the extremity of this inlet. The distance we covered 
is about 20 miles, while yesterday it was only about 17 miles. 

Thursday, October 28th, 1910. — On this day two parties comprising 0. J. 
Morin, first officer, with Mack-Ka-Ta-Wii, and J. E. Lavoie, C.E., with Mathe and 
two Eskimos, having left the ship " Arctic," wintering in Arctic Bay, Adams sound, 
have here built a cairn, and left record inclosed; Mr. 0. J. Morin having surveyed the 
south end of Admiralty inlet is leaving to-morrow to return to the ship, whilst 
Mr. Lavoie continues to Agoo in order to survey the coast of Prince Regent inlet 
from cape Hallowell to cape Kater. 

From observations taken to-day, latitude found is 71° 03' 33". 

C. G. S. '' Arctic " is at the present time commanded by Capt. J. E. Bernier. 

October 29th, 1910. — 6 p.m. — To-day we travelled about 15 miles. The wind 
has been blowing almost constantly from the N.W. No sun was to be seen, and the 
sky remained cloudy. This evening our dogs are very tired, and my good guide 
Mack-Ka-Ta-Wii is ill. It is nearly time for us to reach the ship. While travelling 
we have seen many tracks of deer. 

October 30th, 1910. — Sunday. — Our camp is on one of the two small isles 
situated 4 miles to the S.E. of cape Cunningham, and 5 miles from the point of the 
S.W. entrance to Adams sound. I wanted to reach the ship this very evening but 
the dogs are too tired to proceed any farther. To-day we travelled about 20 miles. 

October 31st, 1910. — Monday. — ^At 12.30 we arrived at the ship after 4 hours 
of journey, and having covered 16 miles. May I be allowed here to praise the sterling 
qualities of my excellent guide Mack-Ka-Ta-Wii. He is the best type of a faithful 
and kind guide. 

I was greatly pleased to have an opportunity of exploring the eastern coast 
of Admiralty inlet from Adams sound to the Shinik islands, although the weather 
was not quite favorable for an expedition. I have been able, however, to form a 
fairly good judgment concerning the geographical details of this part of the country, 
of its coasts and the islands in its vicinity. I am sorry that the atmospheric con- 
ditions I have met with prevented me from taking as many photographs as I 
desired to bring back. 

If I am not mistaken, I have been the first white man who ever laid foot on 
the coast and the above mentioned islands. 

I am. Sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

0. J. Morin, 

Chief Officer. 

APPENDIX NO. 6. 

Summary of the Report of Mr. Robert Janes, Second Officer of the Canadian 
Government Steamer "Arctic." 

Mr. Janes begins his report of his first trip from Arctic bay by quoting a docu- 
ment which he left in a cairn at the eastern end of Adams inlet in October, 1910. 
The certificate is as follows: — 

'[ This is to certify, that on the 12th day of September, 1910, the C. G. S. 
'Arctic,' commanded by Capt. J. E. Bernier. arrived at Arctic bay, Adams inlet, 
Baffin island, having been as far west as Melville island, the ship having crossed 
McClure strait, or within 25 miles of Prince of Wales strait, in the attempt to make 
the northwest passage. Having gone thus far it was found impossible to get 
farther, owing to the impenetrable barrier of old arctic ice that stretched east and 



138 

west as far as the eye could see. The ship then steamed west for about fifty 
miles to ascertain if it would be possible to get around the floe. Here again ice con- 
ditions were found to be the same, so that the ship had to retreat, and after a hard 
fight of ten days, contending with heavy ice the whole way, she arrived at the 
before-mentioned bay as stated.*** " 

I was ordered by the commander to fit out an expedition to try and get to 
the eastern end of Adams inlet, to ascertain, if possible, if game could be found in 
the vicinity of the eastern end of Adams inlet, and to prospect for minerals. 

The party for this expedition consisted of myself, two of the crew and 
one prospector. We left the ship at 10 a.am, and rowed up the inlet about 14 miles, 
where we camped. It was impossible to proceed further, owing to so much newly 
made ice. Here the party hunted for some time, until the ice was strong enough to 
carry the boat, when the party returned to the ship. Deer were plentiful in the 
locality, and the weather was fine. 

After remaining two days, the party started again for the eastern end of 
Adams inlet, this time taking with them dogs and sleighs, and arrived at the point 
which they set out to reach, about 25 miles from Arctic bay. There were many 
signs of deer, foxes and rabbits, and the prospector in the party reported the 
finding of different kinds of economic minerals in the locality. 

A big ravine was travelled for a distance of 10 miles. This ravine ran south- 
west and westward. The country about was mountainous, and broken here and 
there by large valleys. 

It appears from the report of Mr. Janes that in the document left in the cairn he 
gave directions to find the way to Ponds inlet and intimated that the Government 
steamer " Arctic " was making Arctic bay her headquarters for the winter of 1910. 

Mr. Janes returned to the ship for another supply of provisions, this time 
taking sufficient to last the party 16 days. Twelve dogs were taken, as they could 
travel on the ice in Adams inlet. After two days travelling the extreme end of 
the inlet was reached and a tent set up. In the party was an eskimo who had 
been taken as a guide. 

The inlet is described as being about four miles at its greatest width, and about 
one mile from the end it narrows. The water is deep in the inlet until within two 
miles of the extreme eastern end, where it shallows to about two fathoms. The 
land on both sides of the inlet near the eastern end is steep. Perpendicular cliffs 
run along the north side three parts of the way up, and the remainder is a high 
mountainous country with long sloping slides to the water's edge. The western 
end of the inlet is described as lower than the eastern end, but mountain slopes 
are not infrequent. The ravine already referred to may be travelled for some 
distance, but as it presents difficulties at its end, a view may be obtained of the 
surrounding country away to the northeast, and this view presents a broken 
mountainous country, apparently impassable. 

The country looking southeast and southwest around to westward is more 
even but showing some very high peaks here and there. The country is rocky 
with scarcely any vegetation, and at the time of his second trip the face of it was 
covered with snow. 

The general opinion formed by some prospecting is that copper pyrites, iron 
ore and mica can be found at different points. There is proof of this in the speci- 
mens obtained on this trip. The mica found was in small sheets. 

The snow, however, prevented a careful examination of the rocky sides of the 
inlet for minerals. 

The inlet had been travelled on both sides carefully, with the exception of 
about 10 miles on the south side of it. 

A report was made by Mr. Janes of a trip to Ponds inlet during the month 
of December, 1910. On this trip three komatiks or sleighs and 30 dogs were 
taken, and the party consisted of Mr. Janes and three eskimos with about 500 
pounds weight to each sleigh. 



139 

Between Arctic bay and Strathcona sound is Victor bay, and between the 
three sheets of water there are two necks of land. 

Rapid progress was impossible as the snow was six inches deep and not 
sufficiently hard to carry the weight of the sleighs and their loads. 

The weather, however, was favorable, but growing colder. The party 
travelled along the shores of the different bays and inlets, one of them being 
Baillarge inlet. The ice had pressed upon the land and was difficult to pass over. 
The dogs, however, were in good condition. When the roughest part of the ice 
had been passed over, there was some good travelling and progress was made 
without difficulty, until Elwin inlet was reached where the ice was too thin to carry 
the loads. The going was good after Elwin inlet was passed, until the ice on 
the shore where pressure had occurred made it difficult to pass over and keep 
the sleighs from upsetting. 

The rafted ice was even more difficult on account of the snow that had drifted 
in the hollows of the ice. 

The weather had been fine up to the 15th of December, when a high wind set 
in and caused the snow to drift, making it impossible to see at a greater distance 
than five yards away. A place was selected under a small cliff to build an igloo 
in which to rest and sleep. The weather on the 16th had cleared and fairly good 
travelling was found. 

Navy Board inlet was reached and another igloo was built in order to take 
some rest and give the dogs a rest also, as they had become tired. The 17th of 
December was fairly good weather for proceeding and the party pushed on, but 
the cold was becoming intense and the wind blew half a gale out of Navy Board 
inlet. 

An incident occurred at this time which was not at all pleasant; the dogs 
became very hungry and had eaten four sets of harness, causing a delay for a 
whole day. After this unpleasant stop, a change was made by caching some 
of the provisions before starting afresh. 

The ice in the centre of the passage now taken was very good, but on both sides 
very heavy, owing to the great pressure of ice, which had turned up in all shapes. 
The party turned Canada point on the 19th of December at noon, where 
a stop was made and an igloo built in order to rest the dogs that had become 
exhausted. The last of the seal meat that had been taken from the ship was 
fed to them. 

The cold at this time was intense; notwithstanding that the party had walked 
and run their feet became numb. This day, however, was the coldest of the whole 
trip, and the whole party, together with the dogs, were very much fatigued, having 
lost sleep and having suffered from intense cold. 

On the 20th, a fresh start was made in frosty weather and with hungry dogs. 
The party found an igloo on turning into Eclipse sound. A fresh start was made 
on the 21st, and the party progressed for some distance to a point where another 
igloo had been built by eskimos. 

The course was now taken directly across Eclipse sound towards Salmon 
river; the going, however, was very slow, owing to the fact that much snow had 
lodged on the ice, but there was little vdnd and the party plodded along all day 
and all night until Salmon river was reached on the 22nd. 

The whole number of the party were tired, hungry and cold, and to make the 
conditions more unpleasant, not a soul was to be seen in the place, as the natives 
had left it. No time was lost here, and the party started again with the intention 
of reaching Ponds inlet station, at which place they arrived all well, and were 
revived by the food that was given them at the station. 

Here an igloo was built of snow; it took three days before it was considered 
fit to occupy, but after it was built it was fairly comfortable. 

The leader of the party states that for the whole distance from Arctic bay 
to the station at Ponds inlet he had not driven more than 10 miles on the sleigh. 



140 



It was more agreeable walking and running than sitting on the sleigh in the 
extreme cold. 

On arrival at the station it was noticed that the ice had piled up to a con- 
siderable height on the reef in that part of Ponds inlet. 

The eskimos who accompanied Mr. Janes were described by him as smart, 
able and willing. Muckwawee was superior to Monkey-shaw, but the third 
eskimo became crippled on the second day out from the ship and had to be drawn 
all the way from Arctic bay to Ponds inlet station. The accident occurred to him 
by the sleigh sliding on his foot, and he suffered intense pain from the cold. 

During the trip five hundred cartridges were lost from one of the sleighs, 
but the loss was not discovered until 25 miles of distance had been covered. 




141 

On arrival at Ponds inlet, Mr. Janes found the natives in a starving condition. 
It appears that from the middle of December, seals had been so scarce that the 
natives had hardly been able to keep body and soul together. Notwithstanding the 
starving condition of the natives they had not taken any food from the government 
cache, which is certainly a striking proof of the honesty of these poor people. 

They were supplied from the government cache until the period arrived 
when they moved to Button point. 

In connection with this expedition under control of Mr. Janes, instructions 
had been issued to him to gather information from the natives respecting halibut, 
and, if possible, to visit certain points eastward of Button point, Bylot island, 
to try for halibut himself. This station was left on the 1st of April, 1911. Accom- 
panied by the two natives, the party was conveyed by twelve dogs and the sleighs 
laden with provisions for ten days. 




Eskimo Caravan, April, 1911. 

The course was taken in the direction of cape Weld, and five miles from this 
cape open water was found, and the party proceeded to the edge of the ice floe 
and camped for the night. The fishing began on the following morning, but after 
paying out two hundred fathoms of line, it was found that there was no bottom 
at that depth ; it was considered useless to fish in water so deep as it was, 
without doubt, entirely too deep for halibut fishing. The habits of the fish were 
well known to Mr. Janes, and he came to the conclusion that no halibut would 
be found there. Besides, the weather was so disagreeable that it did not appear 
reasonable to continue the experiment under the circumstances. 

In the open water, which was from one hundred yards to one mile in width, 
seals, narwhales, white whales, and birds were seen. 

The edge of the water was followed for thirty miles and at intervals the 
fishing lines were let down to ascertain if halibut were moving. At one place it 
was found that the lines touched bottom, and they were allowed to remain for a 
couple of hours, and at the end of this time, a fine large haUbut, about two feet 
in length and very fat, was secured. A part of the fish was cooked and found to 
be very palatable. 



142 

Other attempts were made to catch halibut, but the tide carried the line instead 
of allowing the hook to rest on the bottom. The fishing experiment was carried 
on about twenty-five miles off shore. On returning to shore several trials were 
made through blow holes, but the water was so deep that it appeared useless to 
continue fishing. During the month of March, two small halibut were bought 
from the natives. These fish, however, were picked from the ice, having been 
brought to the surface by seals. This was determined by the fact that the heads, 
had been taken off. 

Mr. Janes arrived at the conclusion from what he had himself observed and 
from information from the natives, that halibut are plentiful at times on the coast 
of Bylot island in shallow water. 

From information obtained from the natives, small fish are plentiful on the 
east coast of Bylot island, north of Button point, and, from the description by the 
natives, appeared to be either mackerel or herring. 

A trip was made to Possession bay and coast, 65 miles from the west point, 
of Bylot island. Instructions were given by Captain Bernier to proceed to Button, 
point and watch for whalers. 

On May 26th, Mr. Janes left the station to go to Salmon river. It was not the 
first trip to the river, but on previous occasions the snow was too deep to do effective 
work in the way of prospecting for coal. It was impossible to travel on the ice, 
owing to the great depth of snow, even on the trip now being described ; con- 
sequently, travelling was done on the land where there was less snow than on the 
river. The intention was to go to the lakes from which the river flowed. 

The first lake was reached on the 27th, and some prospecting was done about 
it. The ground, however, was frozen too hard to make use of picks or shovels. 
The journey was continued to what is termed the inside lake where the party 
camped. In addition to prospecting for coal, the object for which the trip was 
taken to Salmon river, there was an effort made to ascertain if salmon were running 
to the lake. A hole was cut in the ice, which at the time was very thick, measuring 
about six feet six inches. No salmon were taken. 

The lake was measured, and found to be about seven miles long and one mile 
wide, surrounded on the S.E. side by very high country, which was a regular water 
.shed. On the west is a low neck of land, which divides the inner from the outer 
'ake. The compass bearing of this lake is N.W. and S.E. 

Prospecting was begun on the 30th of May without success. It was observed 
during the search for coal that rabbits were plentiful about the lake. 

From this inner lake, the trip was made again to the outer lake. The depth 
of this lake, however, was not ascertained, but it appeared to be shallower than 
the inner lake; the land around its shore is very low. 

On the 1st of June, whilst passing along by the side of the river and on turning 
a sharp point of land, it was noticed that the banks were of a different formation 
from an}^ others that had been seen, and a small piece of coal was picked up, and 
by use of a pick, part of the bank was exposed on the east of the river. A coal 
seam was here found, and a trial was also made on the west side of the river, where 
coal appeared to be in abundance. A bag of coal was taken from the locality 
for testing purposes. When travelling along, coal was picked up occasionally. 
Along a distance of five miles to the S.W. of this course coal was also found. 

On the 4th of June, on the east side of the river, considerable quantities of what 
was called by Mr. English iron pyrites, was plentiful towards the mouth of the river. 
It is stated that coal can be seen fully exposed for about three miles on the west 
side of the river about four miles distant from the river mouth. The samples 
of coal that had been secured were afterwards tested at the station in a small 
cooking stove, and found to be excellent fuel for cooking purposes. 

A trip was made in the early part of June. The locality, as already stated, was 
near Canada point on Bylot island. 



143 

In travelling, a climb was made to the top of a high table land about three 
miles from the sea and at an altitude of 1 ,750 feet. The formation here was similar 
to that of Salmon river. 

A remarkable discovery was made of some trees that had beeri buried in the 
soil; the butts were in a perfect state of preservation; the trees were lying in a 
line due east and west parallel with each other, resting on a bed of twigs similar 
to those seen in lower latitudes. 

It was believed by Mr. Janes that excavations for several miles along this 
table land would result in finding a large number of buried trees in a good state 
of preservation. Some buds were also dug up from the soil, and the whole dis- 
covery was of a most striking and remarkable character. Samples of the wood 
and buds were carried away, as they were most convincing proofs that the climate 
at one time had been of such a character as to permit trees to grow. 

Another remarkable discovery of coal was made at Canada point. The seam 
appeared to be very extensive. The face of the country consisted of small hil- 
locks, and along these hillocks for a considerable distance there appeared to be 
the same evidences of coal as shown near the seam. 

Mr. Janes arrived back at his station in Ponds inlet on the 14th of June and 
tested the coal by burning it in a small stove, and found it to be similar in quality 
to the coal at Salmon river. 

A report was also made on a trip from a point opposite Albert harbour to the 
S.W. end of Bylot island with the intention of prospecting for minerals. Some 
specimens of a mineral supposed to be antimony were found, also indications of 
coal in a number of places. No excavations were made, however, deeper than a 
C juple of feet, as the soil was frozen to- a great depth. 

A report was also made to the commander of the vessel respecting a visit 
to cape Bowen in May, and some prospecting was done, but not of a sufficient 
kind, owing to the depth of the snow. The snow was so deep that it was almost 
impossible to travel. 

A trip was also made with natives, fifteen dogs, and provisions for ten days 
to Canada point and Bylot island, but as the intention was to go to Possession 
bay, much time could not be taken up in this trip to Canada point. 

The snow had left the land on the higher parts, but the low lands were so wet 
that it was impossible to do anything in the way of prospecting except in the 
higher lands. 

Here an important discovery was made of a seam of coal 1,650 feet above 
the sea level. The seam was found to be 14 inches in thickness, dipping at an angle 
of 45 degrees to the eastward. A bag of coal was secured and taken back to the 
camp. 

A position was taken up on Bathurst point, but the ice was so heavy around 
the coast that no vessels could make their way about this part of the island. 
While watching for vessels, a large whale was seen at the edge of the floe N.E. 
of the cape. Mr. Janes returned to Button point on the 28th of June, not having 
seen any of the whaling vessels. 

Another visit was made to Button point in July for the purpose of watching 
for the arrival of whaling ships. The ice had been so heavy around the coast 
that no vessels could approach until the 10th of July, when two ships came in 
sight to the N.E., which were at once recognized as whaling vessels. These 
vessels made fast to the edge of an ice floe and Mr. Janes, therefore, made his way 
over the ice floe to board the vessels. 

The names of the vessels were the S.S. " Morning," Captain Adams, and the 
other, the " Diana." The object of boarding vessels was to issue whaling licenses. 
The " Diana," however, left the place where she was anchored before Mr. Janes 
could board her. Captain Adams of the " Morning " stated that he had left 
Dundee on the 15th of April and had a fairly good run up as far as Disco island; 
from there northward the ice was heavy and the experience was the worst that 



144 




-TaiSir. I i»m> 




Arctic Caleche, June 23rd, 1911. 

Capt. Adams had ever known in sailing to these waters. There had been a succes- 
sion of S.W. gales followed at times by S.E. light winds which kept the Arctic 
ice close on the Greenland side, the course usually taken in going north. The 
'' Morning " was beset by ice for twenty-one days, having narrowly escaped on 
several occasions from being crushed by the heavy ice. 

The " Diana " it appears was also in the same danger of being crushed as 
the '' Morning." The boats of these steamers had been made ready for leaving 
the vessels more than once. The captain reported that he had not seen any whales. 
Capt. Adams had brought mail for the " Arctic " with him. 

With regard to issuing the license, the captain stated that it would be neces- 
sary for the Department of Marine and Fisheries to communicate with the owners 
of the vessel, living in Dundee. 

The " Morning " was at the time outside of the three mile limit and Mr. 
Janes could, therefore, do nothing further and left for Button point. 

The intention of the captain of the " Morning " was to proceed to Jones 
sound, very much further north than Bylot island, perhaps for the purpose of doing 
some trading with the natives, according to the practice of the whalers in the past 
years. This, however, is only assumed by Mr. Janes. 

The " Diana," on the 12th of July, made fast to the edge of an ice floe about 
10 miles east of Button point. She was boarded and the request made to the 
captain to take out a license for fishing for whales in Canadian waters, but he 
stated that he had no money, that the company by which the vessel had been 
sent out would pay for the license if insisted upon by the Department of Marine 
and Fisheries. 

Mr. Janes was, therefore, unsuccessful with regard to issuing licenses. 

The " Diana," it was stated by her captain, would also go to Jones Sound. 

Mr. Janes then made his way to Albert harbour and then to the station at 
Ponds inlet. 

After returning from the visit to the whalers on July 11th, a trip was made 
to Salmon river by boat. The whole of Eclipse sound and Ponds inlet westward 
from the station, was then open water as far as could be seen. Salmon river was 
also open and salmon were found in it in abundance. Accompanying Mr. Janes 



145 

were five natives. A considerable quantity of salmon was secured for use on board 
the ship "Arctic " upon her arrival at Ponds inlet. Twenty-one bags of coal 
were also secured and taken to a point in Eclipse sound, about 4| miles from the 
mouth of the river. 

APPENDIX No. 7. 

Official Report of the Department of Mines on Analysis and Test of Rock, Coal, 

Shale, and Mineral Specimens Secured during the Cruise of the 

"Arctic" in Northern Regions, 1910-11. 

Department of Mines, Ottawa, 

January 4th, 1912. 

Memorandum : — 

Re specimens collected hy Captain Bernier on his latest voyage to the far 
North, at or near the undermentioned points. 
I. Arctic Bay: 

1. Compact argillaceous shale — said to exist in large quantities. Yields 
no oil on distillation. 

2. Weathered and rust-stained dolomite, carrying a somewhat large quantity 
of copper pyrites. 

3. Trap rock — of no commercial value. 

4. Greenish-white quartz rock, carrying a small quantity of pyrite. 

5. An association of limonite and quartz together, with small quantities 
of copper pyrites and of iron pyrites. 

6. Magnetite, with a large proportion of quartzose, gangue metallic iron 
content 36 . 00 per cent. 

7. Weathered and rust-stained dolomite, carrying a very small quantity 
of copper pyrites. 

A second specimen from the same locality consisted of an association of 
dolomite and quartz, through which is distributed a small quantity of magnetite. 

8. The following rock and mineral fragments — 
a. hornblende-gneiss. 

h. limonite — contains a very little insoluble mineral. 

c. iron pyrites, 

d. chert. 

e. slightly argillaceous and slightly calcareous quartz schist. 

From a point five miles from Arctic bay — direction not stated — 

9. Limonite, carrying a small quantity of siliceous gangue. The specimen 
is slightly stained with green carbonate of copper. 

From the north-west part of Arctic bay — 

10. Dolomite, carrying a few minute crystals of magnetite. 

From the north-east part of Arctic bay — 

11. An association of quartz and hematite — of the two minerals, which are 
arranged in paralleled bands, the quartz constitutes much the larger portion 
of the specimen. 

12. An association of trap rock and quartz, carrying a few particles of specular 
iron. The specimens are all slightly weathered and stained in parts with green 
carbonate of copper. 

13. a. Trap rock, of no special economic worth. 

h. Several fragments of quartz, carrying small quantities of chalcopyrite. 

14. Conglomerate rock, carrying a very small quantity of specular iron. 



146 

II. Adams Sound: 

15. An association of vesuvianite and quartz, 

16. An association of prehnite and quartz. 

17. Slightly argillaceous, dolomitic limestone, carrying a small quantity 
of disseminated iron pyrites. 

18. Trap rock, carrying a few scattered particles of specular iron and of iron 
pyrites. 

19. Muscovite — more or less shattered. 

20. Iron pyrites — assays showed it to contain: 
Gold trace. 

Platinum . 32 of an ounce to the ton of 2,000 lbs. 

21. So called " nickel ore " — sandstone carrying a small quantity of dis- 
seminated iron pyrites. Specimen is slightly weathered and rust stained, and is 
non-nickelliferous. 

III. Baffin Island: 

22. Shaly lignite — ash content 4 per cent. 

IV. Banks Island: 

23. A box of small fragments of: 

a. sandstone, slightly calcareous and slightly ferruginous. 

b. clay ironstone, associated with quartz. "^ 

c. quartzite. 

d. hornblende granite. 

e. calcite. 

/. dolomite. 

g. limonite, with a very small quantity of iron pyrites. 

h. lignite (?) — ash content 59 per cent. 

V. Bathurst Island: 

24. Hotspur point — bituminous shale. 

Yields on analysis: — Oil, 140 imperial gallons to 1 ton of 2,240 lbs.; Ammonium 
Sulphate, 64 lbs. to 1 ton of 2,240 lbs. 

VI. Blacklead Island: 

25. Dissenainated graphite, in quartz rock. 

VII. Bylot Island: 

26. Lignite, from a 3-ft. seam, ash content 8 per cent. 

27. From EcHpse Sound. — 

Magnetite iron ore — contains a small quantity of insoluble mineral matter 
Deposit said to be an extensive one. 

28. From near Cameron Point: 
Lignite — ash content 5.00 per cent. 

29. Hematite — a single nodule picked up on the beach. 

VIII. George V. Mountain: 

30. Red sandstone. 

IX. Igolick: 

31. Dolomite. 

IXa. Johnston Harbour: 

Magnetite in a quartzose gangue. 

X. Melville Island: 

From the winter anchorage of 1909. 



147 

32. Clay ironstone — contains a small quantity of insoluble mineral matter. 
From a point one mile west of the anchorage: 

33. Hematite — contains a large proportion of insoluble siliceous gangue. 

XL MoFFETT Bay: 

From Richard Island : 

34. Mica — variety muscovite — specimen much shattered and of little worth. 
From the bottom of the bay: 

35. A nodule of limonite. 

XII. Nantilick: 

36. Several specimens of mica — all much shattered. 

37. Tourmaline. 

XIII. Ponds Bay: 

38. Iron pyrites. 

XIV. Strathcona Sound: 

39. So-called " silver ore " — an association of calcite and breithauptite 
(nickel antimonide), carrying native silver. The specimen which weighed but one 
ounce was rich in silver, but on account of its diminutiveness was not assayed. 

40. Quartz conglomerate, carrying a very little specular iron. 

41. Hematite — contains but a trifling quantity of insoluble mineral matter. 

42. An association in varying proportions, of iron pyrites and quartz. The 
main vein has a width of 40 feet and has been traced for several miles. 

Assays showed it to contain: 

Gold none. 

Platinum . 11 of an ounce to the ton of 2,000 lbs. 

XV. Victor Bay: 

43. Weathered conglomerate rock, not mineralized. 

44. Calcareous argillite. 

45. Crypto crystalline quartz. 

46. Quartz, carrying a small quantity of disseminated iron pyrites. Specimen 
slightly weathered and rust-stained. 

47. Quartz — vug. 

F. G. Wait, 

Chemist. 

CANADA GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 

Victoria Memorial Museum. 

Bulletin No. 1. 

XII. — Prehnite from Adams Sound; Admiralty Inlet, Baffin Island, Franklin. 

By Robt. a. a. Johnston. 

The material which furnished the subject of this article was collected by 
Mr. Arthur English while engaged as prospector on the expedition of 1910-1911 
of the Canadian Government steamer Arctic under the direction of Captain J. E. 
Bernier. The locality is given as near the head of Adams sound, which would 
make its position as about 73° 12' north latitude and 82° 30' west longitude And 
from information gained from a letter written by Mr. English to Dr. A. P. Low, 
Deputy Minister of Mines, in which he gives a summary of his observations upon 
the geological features of the country, it would appear that near the head of the 



148 

sound extensive beds of shale are exposed. These shaies are impregnated to a 
greater or less extent with iron pyrites and copper pyrites; the pyritous minerals 
occur in the form of flattened nodular concretions and thin scales and are par- 
ticularly abundant along the contact with gabbroid intrusives by which the shales 
are extensively invaded; these intrusives often take the form of dykes of large 
proportions, ra^nging from 1 foot to 30 feet or 40 feet in width. In the neighbor- 
hood of these intrusives the strata are traversed by numbers of vertical veins of 
quartz and calcite, in which galena and pyrite and even fine particles of native 
gold have sometimes been observed. And it is presumably from one of these 
quartz-calcite veins that the mineral under consideration has been obtained. 

The specimens as received by the writer are two in number and are excellent 
examples of vein formation. They present a nearly uniform thickness of two 
inches, and in one of the specimens there is evidence of some contortion. The 
principal constituents are the quartz and calcite as mentioned by Mr. English, 
and the prehnite, which forms the chief motive of this article ; in addition to these, 
a very few minute particles of a dark or nearly black mineral have been observed 
scattered sparsely through the vein; thin sections of the veinstone were examined 
by Professor Pirsson and Mr. Drysdale, of New Haven, Conn., and this dark 
mineral was shown by them to be axinite ; no other minerals than those mentioned 
have been observed in these specimens. The most abundant mineral in the vein 
is a translucent quartz, all but white in colour, there being an almost insensible 
purplish tinge present. The quartz for the most part takes the form of groups of 
imperfectly defined crystals radiating from loci midway between the wall and the 
centre of the vein; the individuals of these groups find, as might be expected, 
their greatest development towards the inner portions of the vein, and in many 
cases they terminate at the opposite wall; while, contrariwise, their development 
has been arrested in early stages of their growth. These groups are thus generally 
very irregular in their outlines; some show a semi-spherical outline, while others 
are more or less elongated in one direction and flattened or compressed in a direc- 
tion normal to it. The calcite and the prehnite, which are approximately equal in 
amount, fill the interspaces between groups of quartz individuals. The calcite is 
white in colour and does not present any unusuai characters. 

The Prehnite. 

As indicated above, the prehnite seems to be more intimately associated with 
the calcite than with the quartz. In the hand specimens the prehnite may be 
observed in small patches and reticulations up to one-fourth of an inch in width; 
these to the unaided eye, or with a hand lens, appear to be homogeneous; in thin 
sections, however, they are seen to be contaminated with more or less calcite and 
some quartz; it has a rather indistinct prismatic clea.vage. Prof. Pirsson, who has 
examined the mineral optically, has furnished the following notes regarding it: 
birefringence >0-20; index of refraction >0-16; parallel extinction; optic axial 
angle positive. The colour is a very pale green; it is perfectly translucent and has 
a weak, pearly lustre. 

In thin sections under the microscope the prehnite is seen in the form of 
sheaves and bundles of minute crystals mixed with more or less of the calcite and 
some quartz. Its hardness is about 6. Before the blowpipe it fuses with swelling 
and contortion at about 3-5 to a brownish slag which is not easily further fused. 
On strong ignition in a closed tube it yields water. Previous to fusion the finely 
divided powder is not readily acted upon by strong hydrochloric acid; after fusion 
it gelatinizes perfectly. 

For the purposes of an analysis a number of pieces of the mineral were first 
freed as far as possible by hand from associated quartz and calcite and then crushed 
to pass through a sieve of twenty meshes to the linear inch; the crushed material 
was then treated with dilute hydrochloric acid (1 HC: 6 H2O) to remove calcite; 



149 

it wtis then washed and allowed to dry at the ordinary temperature of the air for 
twenty-four hours, after which it was introduced into a Penfield's separatory tube 
charged with Thoulet solution of 2-8 S.G. The heavy separate was after a time 
removed, washed with KI solution and afterwards with pure distilled water; it 
was then spread out on glass plates and allowed to dry. As will be seen subse- 
quently, however, this treatment probably did not effect a complete separation 
of the quartz, as the analysis shows an excess of 4 • 38% of silica over that required 
for normal prehnite. Its specific gravity at IS-S^'C. was found to be 2-924, and an 
analysis of the material prepared as indicated above gave the following figures: — 

Silica (SiOa) : 44.35 

Alumina (AI2O 3) , . . 19-44 

Ferric oxide (Fe203) 6 . 58 

Calcium monoxide (CaO) 25.50 

Water (H2O) 4.00 

99.87 

Chlorine and fluorin were sought quantitatively by the method of Berzelius, 
but with negative results in each case. 

These figures afford the following molecular ratios: — 

Si02 AI2O3 FeaOa CaO H2O 

0.739 0.188 0.041 0.454 0.222 



0.739 0.229 0.454 0.222 

3 1 2 1 

(+0.073). 

The excess of 0-073 in the molecular ratio probably represents admixed 
quartz which would thus amount to 4-38 per cent. By subtracting this from the 
total silica and recalculating the remaining constituents the centesimal composi- 
tion of the mineral is obtained. This is given in column I; the figures in column II 
are those obtained by Genth (American Philosophical Society, XX, 401, 1882) 
for another prehnite high in iron from Cornwall, Pennsylvania; these are added 
for purposes of comparison. 

I. II. 

Silica (SiOa) 41.86 42.40 

Alumina (AI2O3) ^. . .• . . 20.36 20.88 

Ferric oxide (Fea O3) ^.. ...6.89 5.54 

Calcium monoxide (CaO) ," 26,70 . 27.02 

Water (H2O) 4.19 4.01 

100.00 99.85 

Owing to its high iron content it has been suggested by Professor Pirsson that 
this variety of the mineral be called ferroprehnite. 



APPENDIX NO. 8. 

Report of Mr. A. English, Abridged. 
Captain J. E. Bernier. 

Commander C. G. S. " Arctic." 

Dear Sir, 

In submitting the following report to you, I beg you to take into consideration 
the very meagre opportunity offered me of making any extended exploration or 
any systematic investigation into the geological structure of the places at which 



150 

we called. This plea I offer as my apology for the shortcomings of this report. 
To be a successful navigator of these uncertain seas, one must be ever ready to move 
forward when the vagaries of the ice permit a passage for the ship. It would not 
be in harmony with this state of preparedness to have a man away from the ship 
for any extended time, so, unfortunately for me, the working out of the problem 
successfully requires time and painstaking effort. However imperfect this report, 
it gives me a great deal of pleasure to submit it to you. 

Pond's Inlet ayid Vicinity. 

The rocks here are so altered and disturbed that they offer a very difficult 
problem to the geologist. That they have undergone great alteration is plainly 
evidenced. Those basalts bore a great share in the process of alteration. The 
hills rise abruptly from the shore. The talus is very rough and composed mostly 
of large boulders. The frosts of winter are rapidly tearing down these mountains 
and reducing them to dust. Possession bay, Bylot island, was visited for a few 
hours. I had not time to examine the rocks at this place. From the presence 
of scattered pieces of red hematite that I found on the surface of the valley, I 
should judge the place worthy of extended investigation; I have no doubt of a 
mineralized zone. I submit a small sample of the hematite to you with this report. 

Erebus Bay. 

Landed on Beechy island but crossed at once to North Devon. Both those 
islands seem to be composed of like material. North Devon, at the part visited 
by me, is composed of limestone of the upper silurian system. I found fossils. I 
found some small pieces of red sandstone, but not sufficient to obtain any deduction. 











' 


J 












-titim''-' — 


~-^ — ^_„— ^ 


■■ ■■' ^^■f^zr^'-'-- 






"-mm 


K 





Entrance Erebus Bay, Beechy Island, Cape Spencer. 

The strata are horizontal; a slight dip is noticeable in one or two places, in one 
case forming a long cyclinal fold. The stones are shaly and have a decided clink when 
one passes over the fragments. The mountain tops are level and afford good walk- 



151 

ing; no boulders obstruct the way. Vegetation is very scant even in the valleys. 
I found lines of ancient sea beach high up the flanks of the mountains, at 800 feet 
above the sea. I found a large piece of whalebone lying on a bed of clam shells; 






Cache No. 2. Remains of Northumberland House, Erebus Bay, August 19th, 1911. 

each trace shows those lines of white shells of bivalves. It would appear from 
the vertical distance which separates the higher terraces, that at first the land rose 
quite quickly; later the emergence was carried on more slowly as the lines of beach 
occur at closer intervals. 

A. English, 

Prospector. 



Captain J. E. Bernier. 
Commander C. G. 



S.'' Arctic." 



Dear Sir, 

I beg herein to submit to you a report of my investigations at the head of 
Adams sound. Spent ten days at the above-named place, prospected the district 
within a radius of four or five miles of the camp where practicable. I also explored 
the deep valley which extends from the water of the sound to a distance of nine 
or ten miles in an easterly direction. 

At the time of my visit to the place, much snow encumbered the ground, 
making the work of prospecting very difficult and unsatisfactory; indeed 1 could 
only examine the walls and slopes of the canyon and ravine in a few places. 



Yours truly, 



A. English. 



Prospector. 



Report on Prospecting on Adams Sound- 



Together with a party of hunters I left the ship on Friday morning, September 
16th. We encamped that evening near the mouth of a small river about 20 miles 



152 

from Arctic bay. I took advantage of our two weeks' stay at that point and inves- 
tigated the geological aspect of the regions within a few miles of camp in all 
directions. I made a collection of mineral specimens, but unfortunately had to 
abandon it in order to lighten our sled boat which would break through the thin 
ice. The collection may be recovered as soon as ice permits. On account of not 
having these specimens I am unable to assign the rocks to any particular geological 
period. The regions have undergone considerable alteration. No fossil evidence 
remains as far as I can at present state. 

At the sea shore gneiss protrudes. Garnets abound in some of those rocks 
where alteration has not been so great. Those basal rocks present rounded con- 
tours. Those rocks have been smoothed, polished, and striated, giving evidence 
of past glacial action. Above those basal rocks rise masses of dark close grained 
rocks, and above these tower immense sandstone cliffs. Trap dykes traverse the 
country, having a general east and west trend. The strata are inclined about 
20°, dipping northeast or nearly so. 

A. English, 

Prospector. 
October 4th, 1910. 

Mineral Samples collected by Arthur English, Baffin Land, 1910. "- 

1 to 9, canyon N. side head Adams sound, Friday, October 7th; 10 to 
11, ravine S. side of sound near head, Saturday, October 8th; 12, Boss 
(in contact with basic sedimentary), Adams sound, E. side Johnston Hr. Rocks, 
October 27th; 13, Adams sound, N. side Johnston Hr., October 29th. 
Besides above enumerated, box also contains samples collected in Victor 
bay and vicinity. Box No. 11. 

Arctic bay, Baffin island, November 15th, 1910. 

Arctic bay, Baffin Island, 

May 25th, 1911. 
Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander, C. G.S. Arctic. 

Dear Sir : — 

I have the honour to submit to you a report of my prospecting 
in Strathcona sound. In obedience to your instructions of May 1st, I set out on 
that date for the above mentioned place about 9 o'clock a.m., and made camp at 
the mouth of a deep ravine on the N. E. side of the bay at 3 o'clock the same 
afternoon. I had as assistants Messrs. Chasse and Montford. 

After having made camp and had luncheon, the men went over the hills to 
look for game for our larder, whilst I examined the rocks in the neighbourhood. 
I found here no indications of metallic ores. Whilst looking over the rocks I 
found a slab of sandstone erected after the manner of a gravestone. It stands on a 
grassy slope above the sea, it measured three feet in height, by one foot wide, by two 
inches in thickness. It is almost perfectly rectangular in form. It bore no in- 
scription of any sort, and was evidently erected by previous explorers as a land- 
mark. 

Next day, the 2nd, I made an attempt to visit Elwin bay, but failed, partly 
on account of bad, rough ice, which made sledding very difficult, and partly on 
account of a snowstorm. As my time was limited, and as the principal part of 
my work lay in Strathcona sound, I did not make a second attempt, but on the 
following day removed our camp about eight miles farther in the sound. This camp 
is called camp 2. At this point the eskimo left us and returned to the ship. Here 
we remained until Friday, May the 5th. 



153 

In the ravines here are salt-encrusted rocks, the salt being no doubt derived 
from the evaporation of the water from saline springs. Such evidence of salt I found 
pretty constant on both sides of the sound. On Friday, May the 5th, we again 
removed to a point about eight miles towards the head of the sound, our object being 
(as expeditiously as possible) to reach the extreme end of the bay ; seeing within three 
or four miles of us what we took for the end, we erected a cairn about one mile south- 
east of our camp, and therein placed the box containing a record according to 
your instructions. Part of two days were spent in this work, rocks being hard to 
obtain. We photographed the cairn when completed. It measures 22 feet in 
girth near the base and 18 feet over the top from side to side. The box holding 
the record we placed in the centre, about two feet from the top. The pile is built of 
sandstone, mostly flat, flag-like, and rests on a limestone base. The head of this 
bay is what we had taken for the end of the sound. On Tuesday, the 9th, we 
removed to S.W. side of the sound, and made camp 4 at the mouth of a deep, 
narrow ravine. Thursday, the 11th, we again shifted camp to a spot about three 
miles to the N.W. We found sled hauling very toilsome on account of deep snow 
and a defect in the sled. Whilst at camp 5 we had a ^dsit from the chief officer, 
Mr. Morin, and a couple of days later a visit, at an early hour in the morning, 
from the commander and engineer, Mr. Koenig. After a hasty breakfast we left 
for a visit to the canyon. After having shown our visitors over the prospects, 
I returned again to camp, and with the assistance of Mr. Montford and the 
Eskimo Cacto and a few dogs, shifted two or three miles still further to the N.W. 
Here our visitors passed the night with us, enjoying a well-earned rest, having 
been steadily on the go nearly two whole days and nights. On Monday morning. 
May 22nd, we finally broke camp and returned to the ship, arriving here at 9jp.m., 
very tired after a long tramp through deep snow. Before concluding, I wish to 
thank you for the compliment you bestowed upon me, by naming after me the small 
bay or harbour discovered by us in this sound. 

Yours very truly, 

Arthur English. 



C. G. S. "Arctic," 
Arctic Bay, July 18th, 1911. 

Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander C. G. S. Arctic. 

Dear Sir, 

I have the honor to lay before you the following additional information in 
regard to my discovery in Strathcona sound. I regret that I am unable to afford 
any valuable data from which reliable figures may be taken as to expenses of mining, 
shipping, etc. 

As a prospector I can, however, assert with some authority, that a very large 
body of ore exists in that locality, and under ordinary conditions, or were the deposit 
located in more favorable latitudes, mining operations could be carried on with 
a certain profit to investors. Of course, this is assuming that the mineral is 
valuable; an assay only can determine this. 

I remain. 

Yours truly, 

A. English. 



154 

C. G. S. " Arctic," 

Port Burwell, Sept. 7th, 191 1 . 
Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander C. G. S. " Arctic." 

Dear Sir, 

I have the honour to submit to you the subjoined short report of my investi- 
gation in the neighborhood of Blacklead, Cumberland sound, Baffin island. 

The brook occupies what appears to be a line of fault running about north and 
south. Saw an old mica prospect that has been abandoned, the deposit not being 
sufficiently valuable to be worked at a profit. The mica is developed in platy 
aggregates in veins having a generally north and south strike. Small veins of 
graphite are also found in the same rocks. I saw a great many small stringers 
and one about a foot in width. This wider one is not so pure as the others, 
the small one being almost pure graphite. I believe the rocks themselves graphitic 
to a considerable extent, particularly in the neighborhood of this vein. 

I have the honour to be. Sir, 



Yours truly. 



A. English, ^ 
Prospector. 



APPENDIX No. 9. 



Arctic bay, 

December 3rd, 1910. 
Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander C. G. S. " Arctic." 

Dear Sir, 

At your request I beg to submit my report of the expedition on which I 
accompanied Mr. E. Lavoie, C.E. Your verbal instruction to me was to help 
Mr. Lavoie to take observations and survey the coast along cape Hallowell, and, 
incidentally, report on the geological formation of the places visited. Before 
proceeding further I will take the liberty of stating that I was unable to do justice 
to the country owing to the ground being covered with snow and having to travel 
with much speed so as to get to our destination. I will, however, do my best to do 
so. We left Arctic bay on the 12th of October, returning on the 17th of November, 
having been away 36 days, covering over 550 miles. 

I find that to a point about 75 miles on the southeast coast of Admiralty 
inlet the formation is the same as in Arctic bay, viz : silurian and cambria-silurian. 

I must say that this formation is a very constant one all along the coast except 
at No. 1 island, quartz appearing very fairly distributed through said island, being 
a quartz proper. As I proceeded along about five miles southeast of said island, 
I came on a contact between granite and gneiss, where there is a very strong deposit 
of black mica, in red feldspar mixed with white flint giving indication that mus- 
covite will probably be found if properly prospected. This deposit is over one mile 
and a half wide running east and west. 

We then proceeded to a place called Assilook. I noticed that the upper 
stratas had been worn down so much that they disappear completely to give place 
to granite which is constant as far as we went, only that they also disappear 
being covered with gravel and sand to the end of our journey. The country there 
resembles a rolling prairie. We saw a lake named Lapontigne ; the river 



155 

discharging from said lake runs through a bed of sand. We then portaged over a 
small lake and found two large lakes which are named Tacil ; they empty into White 
inlet. We then went to Agoo at the botton of Autridge bay, situated about the 
mouth of Ikalo river. We then surveyed the coast and built a cairn about 15 miles 
northwest of Agoo. I must also report that there is evidently very little pressure 
there as the layers of sand and gravel are not much disturbed. The elevation is 
not above 30 feet at high tide, it is simply, as stated above, a rolling prairie. I 
will close this report by assuring you that I have faithfully followed your instruction 
re Mr. Lavoie. 

I must also bring to your notice the native Coodno, as he is a man of no 
small value, having proved himself more than useful. Thanking you. Commander 
J. E. Bernier, for the good advice given me and hoping that this will meet with 
your approval, 

I remain, respectfully, 

J. E. Mathe, 

Prospector. 



Arctic bay, 

June 12th, 1911. 
Captain J. E. Bernier, 

Commander C. G. S. " Arctic." 

Dear Sir, 

I have examined the iron deposit situated between Arctic and Victor bays, 
the one you and I went over on the 6th inst. My observation is that the ore is 
of good quality (non magnetic). The outcrop of the vein is 150 feet wide in a 
fissure of limestone, lower silurian. The ore is broken up, also the west wall. 
I have traced the vein well up into the gorge of the mountain, south of Victor 
bay. The direction of the vein is northeast to southwest. 

Facing north there is too much drift rock over said deposit to permit me to 
trace it up any distance. The samples you collected on the first visit are identical 
with the ones found north and south of where you made small cairns. They show 
the same quartz. It was impossible for me to secure bigger samples, for, as stated 
above, the ore is all broken up but well distributed through the vein. To my 
best estimation the ore carries about 35% of iron. 

Hoping this will meet with your approval, 

Yours respectfully, 

J. E. Mathe, 

Prospector, 

APPENDIX No. 10. 

C. G. S. " Arctic," 

Arctic bay, 20th April, 1911. 
To Commander J. E. Bernier, 

C. G. S. '' Arctic." 

Sir, 

I beg to report that, according to your instructions, I have been at Crau- 
ford and erected a cairn on the point, with the help of the Eskimos that I went 



156 - 

with, on the 16th March, 1911. I left in it the record that you gave me, and I 
placed the cairn on the most northern part of the point on an elevation of about 
60 feet, so that it can be seen from the north and from the south. 

I noticed a reef off the point in the N.E. direction, and I also noticed two 
large icebergs aground on the same line of bearing, about 3 miles off. 

I made two long excursions while there. I went about 20 miles west of Crau- 
ford and found the cliff perpendicular from the indendation ; the cliffs are a good 
deal weathered by time ; I also went to the eastward of cape Chas. York and found 
there the accumulation on a shoal off the cape. I also observed that the Lan- 
caster sound ice is moving with the prevailing wind and the general discharge is 
towards the eastward ; the ice moves with the flow and ebb. The stationary ice 
is about 5 feet thick, and is broken from the icebergs to cape Chas. York. I 
noticed a place which indicates shoal water, about 12 miles south off cape Crauford, 
near the shore. 

I also noticed that the ice is very strong and level. During a storm on the 
16th April, 1911, the ice went off the coast and came back again. I saw some 
bears but did not kill any. I also saw some tracks of foxes, and there are a large 
number of seals in the open waters. Hoping this report will meet with your 
approval. 

Yours very truly, "^ 

Alfred Tkemblay. 



APPENDIX No. 11. 



Memo of distances travelled by officers and other parties during our stay 
in Arctic bay, on foot and with dog sledges. 



1. Voyage of J. E. Lavoie to cape Hallowell Cairn and return, 694 "I 

miles. i 

2. Voyage of J. E. Lavoie to Bowen bay and return by cape Hallo- f 

well, 817 miles, J 



1511 miles 



3. Voyage of 0. J. Morin to Shimming bay and return 240 

4. Voyage of 2nd Officer R. S. Janes to Adams sound prospecting .... 60 



5. Voyage of Arthur English to Adams sound prospecting, 150' 

miles 

6. Voyage of Arthur English to Strathcona sound prospecting and 

return, 270 miles 



} 420 



7. Voyage of Capt. Bernier twice to head of Adams sound, and to^ 

head of Strathcona sound, inland trips, different times around i ofiQ " 
the peninsula, Marcil lake, and King George peak, 235 miles [ 

8. Around the peninsula by Capt. Bernier, 24 miles ] 

9. Mr, Mathe prospecting to cape Hallowell and return, 347 miles . . \ r^'j « 

10. Trips of Mathe and Omming to MofTet bay and return, 180 miles/ 

11. Inland, A. English prospecting with two others, Chasse and Mont-1 r.^, 

fort, 80 miles ^ *" 



157 



12. Trips of different members looking for mineral 70 miles 



13. R. S. Janes trip to Ponds inlet, 180 miles, 



14. 


it U ii 


15. 


u u u 


16. 


u u u 


17. 


u u u 


18. 


u u u 



Coutts inlet, 175 miles, return 

Possession bay, 160 miles 

Canada point, prospecting, 150 miles, 
Salmon lake, prospecting, 75 miles. . 
Button, outside 60 miles 



800 



19. Trip of A. Tremblay to cape Crauford, return 84 

20. R. S. Janes voyage to Adams sound and return 60 

21. Trip of launch from Albert harbour to head of Milne inlet and 230 

Philips cove 



4341 miles. 
J E. Bernier 



INDEX OF PLACES. 



Ackland Bay 25 

Adams Sound 31, 37, 39, 72, 116, 132, 133, 137, 151, 156 

Admiralty Inlet 5, 33, 37, 42, 43, 57, 59, 67, 72, 74, 77, 105, 106, 115, 132, 134 136 

Agoo 43, 48, 59, 86, 102, 135, 136, 155 

Albert Harbour 14, 15, 24, 76, 77, 84, 106, 107, 142, 156 

All Saints Cove 88 

Amitook , . . 59 

Arctic Archipelago 6, 24, 33, 37 

Arctic Bav 5, 6, 31, 35, 37, 38, 43, 53, 54, 57, 59, 60, 72, 77, 85, 113, 115, 132, 133, 134, 

135, 136, 137, 154, 155 

The "Arctic'' (Vessel), 5,' 6^ 13, 15, 16, 17, 22,24, 26,' 28^ 30, 38,' 40,' 45^ 47, 53, 54,' '64, 74, 77, 

78, 79, 81, 84, 88, 89, 103, 106, 113, 136, 144, 154. 

Arctic Sound " 108 

Assomption Bay 113 

AutridgeBay 101, 102, 155 

Baffin Island 6, 33, 42, 44, 79, 107, 108, 135, 152 

Banks Island 6 

Barrow Strait 24, 27 

Bathurst Island 25, 30, 143 

Bay of Mercy 29 

Baillarge Inlet 75 

Bay of Rest 112 

Beaufort Sea 5, 24 

Behring Sea 5 

Belle Isle Strait 7, 82 

Beechy Island 21, 30, 149 

Blacklead Island 80, 81, 154 

Bolduc Cape 97 

Boothia Gulf 5, 6, 33, 58, 78, 101 

Brodeur Peninsula 90, 94 

Button Point 11, 16, 45, 76, 141, 144 

Button Islands 81 

Bylot Island 11, 16, 40, 141, 142, 150 

Byam Martin Channel 25 

Byam Martin Island 25, 30 

Cape Bathurst 16, 143 

Cape Byam Martin 16 

Cape Bounty 27 

Cape Crauford : 31, 57, 62, 77, 106, 155 

Cape Charles Yorke 75, 78, 156 

Canada Point 139, 140, 142, 143, 157 

Cape Chidley 82 

Cape Dundas 29 

Cape Durham .• 80 

Cape Dyer 80 

Cape Inglefield , 102 

Cape Graham-Moore 16, 76 

Cape Hall 81 

Cape Hallowell 5, 59, 85, 87, 101, 102, 103, 107, 156 

Cape Hotham 22, 30 

Cape Herbo 17 

Cape Janes 97 

Cape Kater 35, 38, 59, 79, 84, 85, 87, 94, 96, 97, 137 

Cape Kaye 77, 96 

Cape Murchison 81 

Cape McDonald 97 

Cape Parry 102 

Cape Riley 17 

Cape Searle 80 

Cape Weld 141 

Cape York 10 

Cornwallis Island ; 22, 23, 30 



160 

Cockburn Land 5 

Coutts Inlet I57 

Crokers Bay 16 

Cumberland Gulf 80, 81, 154 

Cunningham Point 90, 133 

Davis Strait 80 

Dealey Island 27, 29, 56 

Disko Island 9, 143 

Dominical Island 134, 135 

Double Island 9 

Dundas Harbour 16 

Eclipse Sound 6, 139, 144, 145 

Ekertoo 31 

Elwin Bay 75, 106, 139, 152 

Encampment Bay 102 

Erebus Bay 17, 22, 24, 150 

Eskimo Inlet 112 

Father Point 7 

Fox Channel 6, 49, 78, 83, 103 

Frechette Island 108 

Fury and Hecla Strait 5, 6, 33, 38, 46, 49, 51, 58, 62, 64, 78, 83, 87, 101 

Gifford River *". "T. 104 

Gray Strait 81 

Greenland 9, 10, 17 

Hall Island 81, 101, 102 

Hudson Bay 5, 6, 46, 48, 56, 78 

Hudson Strait 46, 48, 80 

Igloolik 48, 55, 59, 86, 87, 104 

Intrepid Harbour 23 

Janes Creek 107 

Johnston Harbour 39, 59, 60 

Kekerten 80, 81 

Kikertoo 31 

Lancaster Sound 15, 16, 24, 27, 116 

Lake Caron 35 

Lake Marcil 34, 156 

Lake Tascil 89 

Leah Point. 97 

Lemieux Archipelago 81 

Leopold Island 17 

Levasseur Bay 85 

McBean Bay 95 

McClure Strait 5, 6, 24, 30, 83, 137 

McDougald Bay 23 

Melville Island 5, 6, 23, 24, 26, 27, 30, 137 

Milne Inlet 6, 77, 108, 112, 113, 157 

Moore Island 24, 25 

Moffett Bay 63, 68,[77, 105, 133, 136, 156 

Morin Point 97 

Mount Arthur 94 

Mount Lee 94 

Mount Sherer 93, 94 

Mount Senecal 97 

Navy Board Inlet 75, 77, 78 

Newfovmdland 8 

Niantilik Harbour 81 

North Devon Island 16, 150 

North West Passage 5, 16 

O'Sullivan Island 103 



161 

Paquette Bay 108 

Pioneer Bay 23, 24 

Ponds Inlet 6, 14, 24, 45, 48, 52, 60, 62, 75, 77, 84, 116, 138, 141, 143, 144, 145, 150, 157 

Point Amour 8 

Point Airy 23 

Port Burwell 81 

Port Bowen 94, 156 

Port Neil 77, 94 

Point Rich 8 

Possession Bay 16, 141, 142, 157 

Prince of Wales Strait 137 

Prince Regent Inlet 5, 33, 35, 37, 38, 43, 46, 49, 59, 62, 77, 78, 87, 115, 137 

Prince Patrick Island 24 

Resolute Bay 23 

Resolution Islands 81 

Richards Island 31, 133, 134 

Rosse Point 23 

Royal George Mountain 65 

Salmon River 13, 15, 76, 142, 157 

Sapooting Lake 89 

Sapooting River 86 

Sassiloet 135 

Sherringham Point 23 

Shinik Island 85, 135 

Sir John Ross' Cairn 21 

Strathcona Sound 31, 42, 63, 64, 106, 139 

Van Koenig Point 97 

Victor Bay 35, 42, 67, 139, 155 

Victoria Island 6 

Wellington Channel 21, 22 

Whyte Inlet 101, 103 

Winter Harbour 23, 27, 28, 35, 84 

Wollaston Island 75 

Yeamans Islands 31, 34 



